Multi graft plum planning: need suggestions

Alan I wonder if the Japanese - American hybrids would offer any advantage in this regard? I mean would it maybe be better as base tree where a multi-graft was the plan? I’m just wondering if the cross compatibility issue (if there is one) might be mitigated by a base tree containing the parentage of both?

I know Brady and Jesse both have hybrids and I think they both graft quite a bit. I do not know however whether either of them also grow Euros or if they’ve cross grafted them.
Brady has Toka and Superior and I remember Jesse I think posting about a very nice Vermont plum he has.

Forget Stanley, it sucks. I’d run with Empress or Valor which ripen almost a month later. Oullins is earlier. I planted my Bluebyrd right next to an Empress and they are clearly compatible. Never seen them even argue.

How does Oullins compare to Castelton, another earlier Euro?

I agree, though I did have an interesting experience at the Farmers market last year with Stanley. I asked the Vendor if he had any Casteltons left and he said “no, just Stanley”. I was going to pass, as the last 5+ times I’d purchased Stanley over the last few years (including a couple times from this guy) I was disappointed. He told me “no, try one- everyone likes them more than Casteton”. I wouldn’t go that far (and I have no idea who would consistently prefer them), but they really were not bad, about the same as his Castetons (15-17 brix, decent sweetness). So, even sub-par cultivars can occasionally be pretty good.

This morning, I checked out my Euros and realized I left out another. Vision is almost as big as Jam Session. They are almost 2X the size of Valor and Bluebyrd (which aren’t disappointing to me, just not growing wild). Anyone have experience with Vision?

I have a 5 in 1 that was being sold a few years ago at basically,a big local area hardware store chain that carries a lot of plants.I’m not sure of the root stock.The varieties are Shiro(the most vigorous and fruitful),Santa Rosa(may get a Plum or two this time),Italian Prune(about the same as the Santa Rosa),Blue Damson(had a couple last year but nothing now) and Puget Gold Apricot(gets a little more every leaf,about a dozen now).
This Spring,Early Laxton and Jam Session were grafted to the Damson and Vermont(who’s scions came from Jesse S.) onto the Santa Rosa. Brady

My experience with Stanley here is the fruit drops before the flesh turns to amber and high brix. Castleton will stay on the tree getting sweeter and sweeter. The farmers probably don’t let it get soft ripe because it is sellable long before it is really good.

Oullins is a gage- completely different from the prune plums we are discussing and very delicious when grown in full sun. But gages tend to crack easily if rain shows up when they are almost ripe, especially if they are growing in any shade. When ripe it looks a lot like Green Gage. I still consider it worth growing and Cornell used to call it best in its season for E plums.

Nice arrangement Brady. That Vermont plum is quite a pretty thing, from pics I’ve seen. I see Shiro is your strongest grower. If I were to go straight J. I’m thinking that my be my base.

Will Castleton pollinate Bluebyrd? Because C. seems like a darned nice plum for my application for so many reasons.

Bluebyrd and Castleton are of the same season, why not choose varieties that extend your harvest.

Yeah, silly me, I saw that once I checked ACN 's calendar. TY.

In which case Empress may fit the bill, if I go E/J mix.

Empress is Euro.