These are the max/ min temps but note that the max is on a metal post in the sun.
What temp will damage figs/ citrus/ persimmon/ grape? I think i made some fig fruits abort with about 120F. (The winter minimum outside about 5F. inside got to 26F at the metal post and 29F at the citrus) I could have opened more but I am finding the boundaries etc. with the first spring for the greenhouse. The metal poles will become wood someday.
Yeah I did try the parafilm M, it is better, stretchier but also tears a bit too soon for some grafts but not as bas as ebay green parafilm.
I am eager watching the figs. Here you see a yellow one that seems to have aborted in the hot days.
This one is a bit crazy “Morena” I can send some to you in winter. It seems to just fruit a lot so far… only had 2 ripe last fall to eat. the whiter ones are from fall and the darker green figs are fresh brebas from the last weeks growth. I suppose a month out to ripe idk…
yea, the trick while wrapping is to stretch it halfway. And grip it close to where you want it to stretch.
When stretching you see some “lines” appear in the parafilm. If you stretch further, the lines disappear.
The stretching with lines is what i prefer. If you stretch it to it’s max and than wrap. It can brake with temp change or sun quite soon.
Those are all heat tolerant and can probably survive 130 for a short period. Long term under 100 is better. If you are hitting 120-130 already you’d better figure out how you’re going to cool this summer.
A large exhaust fan on a thermostat with an inlet on the opposite side would be a start. One air exchange a minute will hold inside 15-20F warmer than outside. Add a wet wall opposite the exhaust fan and you can hold inside about the same as outside.
I get one fig to wilt before the rest so that is a clear indicator that it is too hot around 105F. I could keep it cooler but the thing is that the wife really likes the hot temps and sun tanning… It is a challenge to convince her of things that conflict with sun tanning.
These high temps happened on days where i left the main doors shut with almost full sun. We have a relatively weak sun here at 51 degrees north. I sealed up some holes since last summer but it did fine last summer with the doors open… maxing around 100F, I do want to make an exhaust running into the upper back wall and make a dehydrator cabinet with the exhaust fan once i get that construction fully decided on…
Then i can dry a lot more of the summer crops
Here i am making some renovations so the hot air goes out the high point, I raised the roof for this section of polycarbonate. I can funnel it into the connected building or outside and I am still working on getting it to be automated with a couple gas pressured window openers to open and close when it gets too hot…
I told you guys these figs were growing too fast, you guys said it’ll be fine… I am thinking to replace them with varieties that aren’t so vigorous ( these came from spain) with cultivars that seem to stay smaller and produce more figs… You see the one touching the roof. 5ft of growth this year and just a few fruits… -_-
Yeah… taking out the tomatoes soon… let those citrus get some light for winter and i await spring in here.
Figs in-ground in a greenhouse have that issue, too vigorous and as a result not many figs. You can solve that issue by growing them in a big pot. Some varieties are more vigorous than others. But even low vigor varieties like Black Madeira can have the low production issue in-ground.
My in-ground figs in the GH grow about 10 feet a year.
All I have is a square 5’ canopy with 7’ height that acted like a green house. The poor man method of using clear plastic and bed cover on top. First time doing it yesterday and experimenting to see if a young avocados from seeds with survive. Got one, that is true to type. In addition, couple of lychee seedlings, Mango seedlings, Cherimoya seedlings, and for good measure a young pineapple in there too.
