Thanks so much, Drew. Ok. 1 ounce to a gallon of water. On undersides and tops of leaves until it’s running off? Hard to believe that’d take 3 gal per small tree but that’s what I read in the directions…
I hear you about not wanting to spray too much. Cherry leave spot is very common cherry disease.
I use copper at dormant and Immunox twice during growing season. That should do it. Spray underside of the leaves, too.
One tree, maybe you only need half a gallon of water and cut the Immunox portion in half. If you have apples, it helps with cedar apple rust, too. It also help with fungal disease on plum. The label will tell you what you can use it with.
I hoped (against reason and research) that my Carmine Jewels and Crimson Passion could get by without spraying, but that just hasn’t been my experience. If I leave them without or go 100% organic they get hit hard by fungal problems and it is painful to watch… (Crimson Passion in particular).
I have started using Immunox (myclobutanil) and it has proven very effective.
This very thing is what has me stymied. I hit all my cherry bushes and trees at the same time with the same tank mix. As noted above, as far as fungicides go they’re getting dosed at the appropriate time with Kocide & Immunox (and Chlorothalonil on occasion) and STILL these CP’s get hit.
Well that is about 10 times too much on BYOC pruned trees, if a full 25 foot tree, sure[quote=“ClothAnnie, post:604, topic:1332”]
On undersides and tops of leaves until it’s running off?
Yup, no more.
Romeo Cherry is $14 with free shipping at Michigan Bulb, another Gardens Alive company, but it’s today only. I can’t vouch for them, but seems like a good deal.
Coupon Code: 0858103
This was an answer on home and garden that I had found. I think I will burn my leaves with the fungus on them. I also read that copper spray in the dormant season helps.
Cherry leaf spot is a fungal disease that is very common. If an entire tree is defoliated, it can weaken the tree, but that does not appear to be happening in your tree’s case. The fungus overwinters on fallen leaves and good control can be achieved by thoroughly removing all fallen cherry leaves from the vicinity in the fall.
@IowaJer this is why I suggested @ClothAnnie might want to use captan half the time. Immunox completely loses it’s effectiveness on this disease if it’s all you use. Once the resistance has been built up by the fungal disease then your stuck. Immunox is a great fungicide but twice a year as @mamuang said is my maximum so I use captan the remainder of the time. Captan does not have that problem like immunox does in my understanding with the fugus building a resistance. Captan is effective but as mentioned keep it out of your eyes so wear eye protection. I’d rather not have chemicals of any kind on my skin either. Just to be clear on my position I’m more afraid of copper long term than immunox or captan. Copper is technically a heavy metal and like any heavy metal it’s not safer than chemicals necessarily. I use copper in early spring and fall only. It’s best to spray the bare minimum and know specifically what I’m spraying for so many times twice a year might be enough to spray for some diseases. All that said I’m not a spraying expert and every area is different. This is what works for me and I raise some fruit.
Watch out for Captan leave burn. People should be careful and check your weather condition when applying Captan.
Oh I totally agree, you don’t want over-use to create resistance. But that’s not what’s happening here.
Here’s what was sprayed in 2016:
03/08/16 Kocide 3000 (Copper)
04/05/16 Immunox (Myclobutanil)
04/16/16 Monterey Fungi-Fighter (Propiconazole)
05/02/16 Monterey Fungi-Fighter (Propiconazole) & Triazicide
So last year my cherries got only one dose of Immunox. As you can see, I’d hit them twice with MFF as it’s very good on Brown Rot which I’ve had more issues with that than leaf spot here anyway.
Similarly, here’s what was sprayed this year - 2017:
02/19/17 Kocide 3000 (Copper)
04/17/17 Monterey Fungi-Fighter (Propiconazole)
05/05/17 Immunox (Myclobutanil)
05/16/17 Monterey Fungi-Fighter (Propiconazole) & Triazicide
So in the two years shown you can see I’ve used Immunox only once each year on the cherries. (I do two applications on apples for CAR)
But I just think for whatever reason the Crimson Passion bush cherries (mine at least) seemingly have a weaker immune system or something else going on, but it’s not a resistance issue.
I don’t have any other explanation for why they would be getting leaf spot while all other bushes don’t.
The five CJ’s have been here since '11 & '12
The two CP bushes have been here since '14
The two Juliet bushes went in in '16.
So the CJ’s have had a chance to have fungicides applied to them for a longer period of time and they haven’t shown any tendency to get leaf spot.
The Juliet’s are short timers and still no leaf spot issues with them so far.
The CP’s which sit in the same row/area seem to be leaf spot magnets under the same spray program. (Maybe they just need additional apps…)
Well, they did get an additional application a couple days ago after I plucked off the yellow leaves and picked up the ones on the ground…
I like to use Lime-Sulfur in oil in the fall. It will kill any spores trying to overwinter on the tree. Also any eggs, and other pests. Hard to find, I have a stash of it. I got a couple years left. I never have used Immunox. I do use Propiconazole and also Pyraclostrobin and Boscalid. The latter two are used on cherries for Alternaria leaf spot, Anthracnose, Blossom blight, Brown rot, Leaf spot, Powdery mildew, Ripe fruit rot,
Rust, Scab, and Shothole on sweet and tart.
I just bought and put these in the ground in March so between then and now I guess I’ve lured the spores I’m guessing I’ll need to keep up with spraying and this is a new learning curve. I did spray the liqui cop today. First I collected the yellowed leaves. I left a few that didn’t just pull right off- wasn’t sure if they could be still useful to the tree. I took a pic of a few of the leaves.
Lowe’s carries it around here.
That makes sense. Areas like mine are higher disease pressure than some and I suspect since your the next state over yours could be the same. Brown rot in peaches showed up here when I was spraying regular. Sometimes these diseases fly under the radar. Monterey fungus fighter had little effect against brown rot here. That spray worked miracles against brown rot in other areas. Once I’m finished with what I have there will be no need for me to order more. At first it looked like it might be highly effective. As you mentioned much of the problem has a lot to do with the trees natural defenses.
Copper can burn the leaves. We usually use it when the leaves are off the tree. You can use your extra spray on the ground around the mulch of the tree. Did your copper spray have directions for spraying while the leaves are on?
It didn’t even have directions for this type of disease. It talked about applying it when they were at some stage of bloom but maybe hat wouldn’t be with leaves. I just used a small amount. Someone (maybe drew?) suggested 1oz to a gallon. Will try to post pics for updates soon. I need to get a pic of our wild cherry tree for the " what fruit did you eat today " thread.
Up until this year my peach harvests have been minimal (you may recall the two mislabeled trees I nursed along until they finally made some peaches on about the 5th year and they turned out to be Earlitreat which is out-of-zone for our area) So based on some advice from Opea we’ve since planted others and I think we had about 15 on a Redhaven last year.
This year Redhaven & Madison are loaded - I initially thinned right at 600 between the two, and still take off a few every now an then.
So I said all that to say this; I haven’t had enough peaches up until now to know what works and what doesn’t relative to BR
How do you battle BR in peaches?
I’ve always thought the same thing, but once when I’d gotten some young plants in from HBUSA (May not have even been plants for me, I can’t recall) that had some leaf issues that looked like beginnings of CLS, I’d asked Bernis about it in an email and she said Jim recommends hitting them with copper. At the time I told her of my concerns about leaf burn and she said Jim said he uses it without a problem.
So I hit them with a liquid version and saw no burn.
I think like Drew noted above, just cut it back some and it should be fine. Plus at this point…
This year I am using Indar on brown rot. I had absolutely zero brown rot on my cherries, even split fruits are not getting it (they are molding instead). I used MFF in the past and like Clark it didn’t do as well. I’m not 100% sure the MFF is always what it says on the label, different bottles I had looked like different liquids. Indar only comes in big bottles but maybe you can split one with others - thats what I did. Per spray the price is good.
I looked just briefly and I think Keystone has it at like $330 a gal. (Ouch!)
Still, if the per spray price is decent, I’d think it’d be worth upping the ante to ensure better fruit in the end (so all your other efforts aren’t in vain…)
So three questions:
Any idea on what the shelf life is on that much?
How many ounces are used on a per gallon mixed basis?
Is one application a year good, or are a couple sprays needed?
I’ve been pretty darn happy with MFF on my cherries regarding BR, but if it doesn’t do the job on the peaches I’m gonna be wanting something that will!!! They’re too darn good to let the dreaded BR get 'em
If MFF is working on your cherries I expect you will be good on your peaches as well. The critical time to spray is a couple weeks before harvest, the number of sprays you will need to do depends on how stretched out that is. Last year I used Indar a couple times and that was not enough, I will be using it 5-6 times this year.
For Indar its about 1tsp per backpack tank for me, thats 768 sprays from a gallon so around 50 cents per tank. That is probably cheaper than MFF per tank since so much less is used.