At a local hardware store.
this product? https://www.homedepot.com/p/Daconil-16-oz-Concentrate-Fungicide-100536524/202268570
the label does allow use on cherries, plus peaches for plc https://www.gardentech.com/products/daconil/daconil-fungicide-concentrate
thank you I might add that next year
Yes,thatās it,the concentrate.Also,it stopped almost all of the Peach Leaf Curl.There are a few leaves at the tip of a Nectarine tree branch that were affected.
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My Romeo seems to have finally outgrow the dying on me phase. Two years ago it died to the ground, last year about a third of it died, this year everything looks fine.
After the first die back it started sending root shoots like crazy. It is amazing to see how far the roots go and how little they care about other plants being in the way.
mine are 5 yrs.old but never shown any dieback or disease issues thus far.
Ortho also makes a chlorothalonil product. Ortho MAX Garden Disease Control Concentrate is their version.
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I would like to remind new fruit growers that chlorothalonil (one brand name is Daconil) has a long interval. Usually, you can only spray before and right when fruitlets just form, not much after that.
If you need to spray again weeks after fruit have developed, you need to switch to another fungicide. Please read the label carefully.
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Yeah, you want to read the fine print. Daconil is great when it is acceptable to use. I avoid use on apples or pears after bloom, and I donāt use on my peaches after shuck split. I think it is best when used strategically, when other options are not optimal. I believe I originally bought it to fight anthracnose and learned it was good against PLC later.
There is a reason why Daconil is part of my arsenal, but not the main component. It is far more effective when Your tree is building scaffolds, but not producing fruit.
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Hereās a root with two saplings I just harvested. It is just shy of 3 feet
As you can see there is no lateral roots. If you just wanted the two saplings you would cut the root where it comes out of the bush, between the saplings, and about 10 inches pass the last sapling. At that point I would cut the tops so the roots can use the energy on getting established. They would be ready to be pulled by next spring.
But I wanted it for making a bunch more, so tops off, chopped into 6" sticks, and into a seedling box. Got a total of 10 candidates. Root cuttings have a very high success rate. It is not uncommon for all of them to take.
The tops that had a bit of underground wood should pick up on the aeroponic box
I also loaded some of the top twigs. They have a very low chance of taking but I had the space.
Hereās a baby from last year just waking up. The new roots are well established so it should put a good amount of growth this season.
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if I understand you, root cuttings of dwarf sour cherries will readily sprout shoots, but top cuttings wonāt readily root? is that right?
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At least in my experience rooting green cuttings have a very high failure rate and thatās with babying them a lot. Root cuttings are trivial to root; plant them, keep them moist, wait.
Even transplanting a grown sapling can be tricky. As you can see in the first picture there isnāt a whole lot of lateral roots going on. If at this stage I was to pull and plant those saplings the roots would not have enough purchase in the soil to support it. Thatās why when they are like this you would want to cut the root at the mother and then give it another season to it to establish lateral growth.
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just did the same. i had 4 Romeo shoots come up last summer. i let them establish and dug them a couple days ago with about 6ft. of root. total, i put out 15 6in. root cuttings including the 4 shoots that now had their own roots. i cut them back to the 1st bud to give them the best chance to root. hopefully im as lucky as you Don. ill let you know how they do.
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I did a graft trial of a couple carmine jewel root suckers and cleft grafted some Wowza scions onto them and they took just fine. I tried to root the Wowza with hormone and it was a failure. Probably needed a misting tent.
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Does anyone have a suggestion for what they do to keep away birds from these bush cherries that works well? I put up a net but it is hard to get the bottom completely sealed and the birds seem to find their way into tiny openings. My cherries are just starting to turn partially red here and I already had a cedar waxwing inside the net. Of course once they get in they canāt figure out how to get out so I had to free it.
Plant mulberries 
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any bird that gets stuck inside my net is one less bird for me to worry about in the future! 
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I see it as natural selection. They fly past myriad other food sources to sudoku in my nets andā¦Iām not mourning their passing.
For me, reflective ribbon has never worked for more than a day or two. This year I used all the scare devices at once. Lots of ribbon, holographic scare eyes, the beach ball scare eyes, and a fake owl. I moved the owl around every day. It worked pretty well.
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No motion activated water sprayer?
No, but thatās probably not a bad idea.