Need Help Developing A Regiment for My Fruit Trees

General Fruit Growing
#1

I joined this group last year, and have been learning a lot and applying a lot. Thank you all!

And yet, with all the things I have planted over the last two years, and now that we are in the middle of the growing season I am feeling a bit overwhelmed and confused by all the informationm and options.

I did do a dormant spray in February and now have trees which are already finished blooming, or presently blooming.

I am in central Kentucky, zone 6b, where we have frequent rains and humidity, OFM, Stinkbugs, Japanese Beetles, and a lot more.

Last year I bought a big bag of Surround, but rather hated to use it becasue it kept clogging my sprayer.

I wonder if any of the leaders would be willing to help me put together a good regiment of spraying for my trees? I have been studying all the options but… my head is spinning with which products to go with.

Last year for my stone fruit I used Immunox, Dipel BT and Spinosad, dish soap, sulphor (except on apricots)

On my apples and pears I used Spinosad, Dish soap, sulphor, dipel BT

Here is a list of all the Fruit Trees and Berries I have. Most are three years old or less, with most being two years old. I have about six apple trees, otherwise just one to three trees of each kind.

Would really appreciate it if someone could help me.

John in Kentucky

Almond -

Apples

Apricot

Aronia Berry

Blackberry - Thornless

Blueberry

Cherry – Sweet

Cherry - Bush

Chestnut – Chinese

Elderberry

Goji

Grapes

Honeyberry

Kiwi - Hardy

Mayhaw

Mulberry

Peaches

Pears Asian

Persimmon Asian

Plums – Japanese

Plums – European

Plucot

Pomegranate

Muscadine Grapes

Nectarines

Raspberry

Strawberries

Ume

#2

Hopefully you will get a lot of replies. Ok you need to protect apples and stone fruit for sure. A lot of the berries will need no protection. If problems arise like raspberry borers or whatever. Japanese beetles etc. then you can go after them. You are going to have to go through the school of hard knocks. We all do to educate yourself on what to do. Ask here. Look for Alan’s spray program as a base to start.
We all use different stuff because we found it works for us. A couple hints. Except for sulfur and copper you need to use acidic water in your pesticide sprays. It’s the difference between working and not working. Example malathion works for 30 minutes if mixed in tap water which is neutral to basic in pH. Using acidic water it will work for 30 hours. So this is extremely important. Use rain water or add vinegar to tap water. How much depends on your tap water. At least a tablespoon per gallon.
Use a really good professional sticker/emulsifier like Nu-Film 17.
There are ways to make surround work better and flow better but I don’t use it so cannot help much. Try adding Nu-Film to it. With sprays add water, vinegar, Nu Film then pesticide, mix well and do it in this order. Never add water to acid only acid to water (prevents splash ups of acid). Spray till dripping.

1 Like
#3

Hope you have seen the guides section. All the best.

#4

Everybody is going to have different answers, you have to find what works for you. I prefer using Infuse, and Fruit Tree and Plant guard for fungicides. They work great for brown rot but you have to keep up the sprays until allowable sprays are used up. See label for how many times you can spray and at what intervals whatever you use.
Some don’t like Plant guard as it also contains an insecticide which is very effective, but not organic. Some limit non organic products to only fungicides to try and stay as organic as possible. That fungicide though is the only product that contains it and it’s very effective and has a different mode of action than Infuse. Using both attacks brown rot on two fronts, and lessons chance of resistance developing.
I feel you need a strong insecticide for PC and codling moth. Such as seven or eight.
If spinosad works you may not have to, and it is organic. Pressure is high for me in Michigan so I use the non organic types.

1 Like
#5

Drew 51,

Thank you for taking the time to write. I went to Bonide’s website to learn more about Infuse. Just having two products to deal with sounds really good. But in response to customers questions, the Bonide Representative said it was not meant for spraying on edible foods.

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  • Asked by Harold from Aquebogue, N Y

07/26/2013

Q

Bonide INFUSE Systemic Disease Control spray accidentally drifted onto basil and parsley. Can i eat them?
Can I eat basil or parsley which accidentally received some spray while spraying nearby trees with INFUSE

A

No, all edible plants that had Bonide INFUSE Systemic Disease Control drift on to them should be discarded as this product is not labeled for edible plants.

#6

But then the Infuse Label says you can use it on Apricots, Cherries, Peaches, Nectarines, and some plums.

So then I don’t know what to think!!!

John

#7

I also checked out the Assail. Powerful stuff that would take care of all the bad bugs I have. At 439 dollars for 28 ounces, that is a lot of money, but it is so concentrated that I would only use 2 oz a year, which then would only be 31 dollars!

Would be a nice thing to go into with a group from the same area I would think.

John in Kentucky

#8

Drew 51

Thank you for the advice on testing water PH and making acidic, that is good to know!

John