I think, that’s pretty much it. Mine arrived when it was almost 25°C. I’ve learned my lesson and won’t be buying bareroot trees online in spring, only in person, preferably in autumn. However, they should perk up in autumn/ by next spring.
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I like the way they reported the soil testing and recommendations to you. I received a similar type report from my state. I like the way yours is displayed better than what reports I got back from Ohio soil testing. I hope this helps your tree situation.
Peat in the planting holes doesn’t even ever get wet if it isn’t well mixed with the soil. It has long been discouraged by the literature to use that approach to soil amendment. If soil needs improvement, amend a wide area of the top 6-8" of soil. You want to encourage the roots to grow outwards and most of the action is always in the top 12" of soil.
Apples can thrive in a pH even in the low 5’s, but I believe the affects of pH vary from soil type to soil type, I’ve never seen acidic soil cause the symptoms you describe, especially given the fact that only apple trees have been affected.
That makes me believe that markmt may be onto something- that there is a small area of contaminated soil causing the problem. Speaking of pH, sometimes a burn site will be alkaline enough to stop tree growth- I’m talking above 8. However, what affects trees would also likely affect grass.
If you want to know what is up with your soil in that spot, take a sample to your cooperative extension and have them test the pH. If it is within the realm that apples survive, ask them if they do more complete soil tests or who they recommend to do it and do a thorough test.
If I have excessively sandy soil I will till in as much as a third yard of quality compost into the top 8-10" of soil where the roots are going to be growing as the tree does- a 6’+ diameter circle. If I need to adjust the pH I do so at that time with either lime or sulfur depending on what my soil test tells me. Then I will raise the planting area bit by planting the tree shallow and dressing with a quarter yard of compost topped with same of wood chips. Create a parfait affect— that is what trees often make for themselves in the forest.
With the vast majority of soils only the top dressings are needed. Trees are adaptable.
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Yes. Putting on my geochemist hat now: pH (unless it’s REALLY crazy) will only ever indirectly affect plants.
The pH changes how available or unavailable the different elements (nutrients the plant needs) are.
If your soil has enough of a given nutrient even if its transport efficiency is decreased because of the pH your tree is going to be fine
That was the result I posted above and on the form they show I need 95lbs of lime per 1000 sq ft. I am going to start with that.
I was just replying to the outcomes of the soil test I took the other day.
I would be even more concerned with the excessive P, if only because it’s harder to correct. Check the pH of the soil where other trees thrived. The main reason the literature leans on higher pH for apples than other fruit is about the fruit and not the health of the trees. It is about preventing storage disorders.
I’ve never heard that apples require a higher pH than other common fruit trees to thrive. If anyone else has information that suggests that, I’d be very interested.