It was old veterans that got me into natural and organic farming also! I definitely think you can do what you are planning and really like Scotts idea of both of those companies for good local advice on what works. I do think you really need to interplant and put different tree or shrub species between each other as a pest block. All bees (honey, mason bumble etc) or other pollinators wont flinch at flying 50-100’ but for many pests that is quite the walk and ideally they find a pest on the way to eat them. I try to do companion planting for each tree like garlic onions or chives as well as comfrey or other deeprooted plants (dandelions are great too) and put strawberries near my apples etc. Basil near grapes. I really reccomend anise hyssop for pollinators and maybe a few pollinator trees if you want landscape trees (summer or dearth flowering like basswood or sourwoods, European lindens, bee bee tree, seven son flower, black locust (thorny). I think lawns just invite and sustain pests only unless you include clover, dandelions or short flowering walkable plants (creeping thymes / mints, violas, chamomile, short fescues, birdsfoot trefoil and many things considered invasive or unwanted) and mow them at the highest setting.
There are plenty of effective natural or organic alternatives that people could use to there chemical sprays but these are usually much more expensive or require more applications. Beneficial bacteria and fungi products usually are not and many you can brew up on your own to create more for spraying. You will probably need to preventatively spray there for many of the commonly grown fruits but eventually the natural system works when you weed out what tree / plants do not. If you ever have a question on a product to use i would gladly reccomend a organic alternative i just do not try to use this site as a advertising platform (and usually only make recommendations when i see people advertising for a chemical company etc) as i love how Scott has set it up and there is such a free exchange of knowledge on here.
I really like the japanese style gardens and since i do not have as much space as need for plants i went with semi dwarf to dwarfing rootstock with summer pruning to control size. I think its important to incorporate water if there is none near and wood / rock piles for habitat for predators. My assumption is you have more chill hours than you would think and like most people you may have things wake up to early, Disease resistance is probably the most important thing to look for in purchasing fruit as homegrown fruit is usually better period. I tried many apples that were supposedly the best eating but because they did not work for my climate i had a lot of losses and failures which allowed me to learn.
How important are apples, pears and peaches to you? They are extremely important to me so they were worth growing.
What about citrus? your close to alot of really hardy varieties but without late warmth many may not work for you unless you cover, shelter or greenhouse them.
Figs would be a real winner for you i feel
Mulberries are amazing very tasty and good to have around as a bait tree for birds / squirrels are no spray and can extend berry season. You probably need a named variety that tastes good many on the EC complain about the wild mulberries the ones here on the west (and mountains) are pretty good.
Raspberries and blackberries you should be able to find no spray easy to grow ones for your area as well.
Goumi is very good and is a nitrogen fixer for the ground and well behaved shrub for its family.
Jujubes are pretty amazing they are a summer pollinator and handle high temps well but you may need to find one that ripens early (in your heat window)
One thing to remember is the rootstock is far and above the most important thing, you can always regraft something later and i know its winter but getting a soil sample or an idea of what your soil consists of (clay loam etc) is important. Also its very good to see if water pools anywhere or if you have low spots that are flood plains, you will need to put different trees or roots that accept that there. Also good to see where the winter sun line is and if you can keep less hardy or early waking trees away from it that can be helpful. Do you know what your average frost dates are as well as something to set that by like different crab apple blooms or montmorency cherry blooms for the years, this can help in selecting varieties.