Oil Sprays

The best theory i have seen is in the winter move bird feeders thru the orchard. The chickadees and nuthatches etc like to hide their seeds in tree bark… and during so find larvae and cocoons while they look for hiding spots. The theory is to have the birds hunting all winter long in the orchard.

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Most of us use copper and oil mostly for peach leaf curl. I suspect you may use something else? So I can see the oil spray would not be needed. I myself do not use oil and copper, I just add Nufilm to Kocide and it works great at keeping the copper on the tree.
My daughter bought property at my cottage and a peach tree is on the property. It was never sprayed and last year I noticed it had PLC so bad all the fruit aborted or didn’t even form. Terrible case, the tree was leafless most of the summer. I told her we should just remove the tree, but she wants peaches. I want a garden and orchard there that is spray free, oh well, she has tart cherries too, I have to spray them else all cherries have worms. Terrible pressure there.
I always liked this photo of Nadia cherry-plum hybrid, as it rained for 8 hours one day and the copper didn’t move! Photo is 2 weeks after application. NuFilm 17 is an awesome sticker. I highly suggest using it or other professional grade sticker/emulsifier.

Pinene is the main ingredient, also the main ingredient in Wilt Stop. Also found in some strains of cannabis.
I also use NuFilm to seal in scion

A lot of people request scion from me. So expect it to be a little sticky. I add copper too to prevent molding. Happens a lot with fig cuttings, so I got in the habit of using it for all scion. Many people use 10% bleach to sterilize fig cuttings. When dry spores can once again attach to the wood. With NuFilm, that’s not going to happen.

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From personal observation, Nufilm 17 is the “stickiest” sticker I’ve used. It makes the inside of spray equipment very sticky. Practically impossible to wash off.

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I just rinse it with water. The manufacturer states it will protect equipment. No need to go to extremes to clean equipment. It has never clogged my sprayer doing this, but that may have to do with using rainwater or other unknown factor. Since I’m careful only to pour it into the sprayer, it being sticky is not an issue.

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Thanks

Nufilm 17 has never clogged my sprayers either. Sometimes I like to rinse sprayers out to repurpose them from herbicide to fungicide/insecticide so I worry a bit about the residue of sticker in the sprayer. Or else sometimes I have to climb in the large sprayer, and it’s really messy/sticky once the sticker has set up. I put up with it, because it is such a great product.

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Same here, I’m always concerned about the materials mixed with the Nufilm and their compatibility or incompatibility with what I’ll be spraying next. I also use my sprayer to apply herbicide along the fence and along the rows of the orchard and want that thoroughly cleaned when I’m done. I’ve had good luck with hot water and dish soap, but have considered purchasing cleaner especially meant for sprayers to be sure I’m not carrying over something from my last sprayer job.

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Yes it only takes about 5 days and the moss turns black! Same stuff I use to treat roof and deck for mold and moss.
Dennis

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I figure if I am going to spray anyway with copper, why not add the oil. It’s not that harmful or toxic. And I have lots of chickadees and nuthatches here, but also plenty of codling moths, so don’t depend on the birds to provide your only protection from them, though I am glad to hear the birds enjoy the bugs.

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I have a pluot tree that has had very significant peach leaf curl the past few years; it blooms heavily, then develops the curled leaves and doesn’t set much fruit. Last summer I noticed that a prune plum tree on the opposite side of the house which had not been affected before, was also starting to have some peach leaf curl.
Any advice on the least toxic, most effective dormant spray for this?

Being a Pluot tree,there is not much chance for Peach Leaf Curl,as that affects Peach and Nectarine types.
Curly Leaf Plum Aphids,go after my Pluots and Plums,starting in the Spring,when the leaves are tender.They are very small and best seen with a magnifier.
If they are on yours,a dormant spray,before flowers open,made up of soap(dish soap or Castile)and oil(vegetable,Neem or mineral) should help.More than one application,about ten days apart,may be better,especially if there is rain.Saturate the whole tree.
Once the insects get inside the curled leaves,it is difficult to fight them.

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Are there any trees/plants that this should not be used on?

Does anyone have any experience spraying a home made canola spray as horticultural oil after leaves have emerged?

Our Utah extension office has a codling moth treatment option that involves an oil followed later by an insecticide. But I don’t want to burn the trees or anything.

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