Recently went ahead and bagged my peaches for this summer. Started off with a spray of Imidan followed by Bonide Fruit Tree Spray. Waited 7 days (and after 2 rains) and did one more spray with just Bonide. This has slowly been getting worse and is now looking like this on 6 or 7 of my 12 trees. Any idea of what might be causing this???
My guess is Captan leave burn. One of the three main ingredients in Bonide Fruit Tree Spray is Captan. When you sprayed with the condition that made it slow to dry like a wet, cloudy day, the situation would be worse.
Awesome… so just got to let the tree just grow out of it. I preemptively tossed down some Citrus Gain fertilizer along with some organic (kelp, guano, with a little bit of blood meal) also. Let’s hope this gives them a little boost.
Let’s hope your trees do not lose too many leaves. The fruit need many leaves to feed them. Good luck.
I am going to purposely make myself a target for criticism but I think that there is such a thing as trying too hard.
You’re in Z5 so it’s still early and you have already sprayed Imidan and two sprays of Bonide. Then we have Citrus Gain, kelp , guano, and blood meal.
Maybe we should just let them grow and fix the problem once we observe them.
No offence , I’m just looking to get some feedback for our mutual benefit
If you’re going to feed them, now is the time. I’m in zone 5b and have 4 sprays in so far. PC is just about gone now, so in a couple weeks, I’ll slow down. Brown rot is forever best start before bloom.
Sean The Fruit tree spray is only to be used three times a season. Always wait 14 days too, You should have used something else like Bonide’s Fruit Tree and Plant Guard or just a fungicide like Monterrey’s Fungi Fighter after the rain.
Well, figured I’d use Imidan for its curative properties since I SHOULD HAVE sprayed easily 2+ weeks before I did my first. I pretty much rained every other day from petal fall up until 2 weeks ago. I got hit by PC in the mean time and lost a good quarter of my peaches and ALL my nectarines. The bottle I have of Bonide suggests waiting 7-10 days in between sprays, so my timing based off their label is fine.
I will say something though that I think caused it. I usually always added a sticker to my sprays and reading the label I could not find anywhere on it to NOT add a sticker. However I did read a few articles that state Captan can not have a sticker or it may cause burning. So that may be the issue, and why I didn’t notice it really until this last spray.
I have watched a few videos from the UT extension that state “if it rains a day or so after you spray, pretend you never sprayed and spray again”. So based off of that and he fact it rained the day after my first round I don’t think waiting 7 days later to spray again is whas causing my issues.
Now I get what you are saying about the fertilizer, but his isn’t my first go around with these trees. They are going on their 5th year and 2 have had issues since their 2nd year which no one can seem to diagnose. I tried Citrus Gain last year and within a week or so the 2 seemed to perk up. I tossed down the ferts this season because I was seeing some of the same symptoms with the 2 trees, and then the weird “burned leaves” on some of the others. I always have added kelp and guano each and every year with no issue. This is the first time with blood meal but I figured if the spray did something to the leaves I wanted to give a quick boost of N to kick start new growth to hopefully pull them out of it.
Well good luck with your trees and let us know how it goes!
That is probably true, but only on fruit trees. On strawberries you use twice the captan, and they never burn. I would just use the Fruit Tree spray alone with no sticker. More work of course! I would use a sticker with Imidan. I don’t need to use Imidan yet, but always an option! This year PC seems non existent here. I have seen only a few bites whereas last year every fruit had a bite! I use milder insecticides for now. They are working, so if it’s not broke…