It looks to be fruiting this year. You never know whether the fruit will reach maturity when the fruit are the size of raindrops. But it did set. The graft was mature when it fruited last year.
Since you asked, I will share my experience, but it is complicated and makes one scratch his head. Zone pushing in peaches does appear to be more amenable to hacks than for apricots. For example, I have 3 microclimates in my yard, literally only 20 yards from each other. I have named these jokingly, sorry if it confuses people but I actually literally think it corresponds to what I can grow in my microclimates:
10B: on a ridge, full sun in morning, full sun all day. Bananas and avocados fruit here.
10A: low part of yard, full sun an hour after sunrise, full sun all day. Bananas and avocados die here of frost.
9B: low part of yard, along my eastern fence, shaded for the first 3 hours after sunset (though it varies)
Here are some of my contradictions:
Cal Red grafted to a young rootstock was moved from 9B to 10A this winter. It soon flowered and set fruit all along its short 1 foot high graft. I had to remove them because I want it to grow. This should be a high chill cultivar. Cal Red in 10B is just starting to flower, 2 months later than 10a.
Indian Free in 9B is in peak bloom right now. No signs of inadequate chill at all. Indian Free in 10A is totally chill confused and has peaked out a couple flowers. The rest is dormant. They were both purchased from the same nursery, the same year, planted at the same time, on identical rootstock.
Springtime flowered 2 months later in 10B than in 10A.
Liz Late flowered compactly, just exploded out with flowers, in 9B. It has been on a slow rolling wake-up in 10A.
August Pride was a month or two later on 10B than in 10A.
That being said, there are some other contradictions that do not fit this paradigm, like grafts in 10A behaving differently on tree A than tree B, literally just within feet of each other, or select grafts doing earlier in 10A than 9B. And it definitely does not work for the Moorpark apricot!
My conclusion is that peaches and nectarines seem to be sensitive to temperature, and if you are zone pushing, it is okay to give them full sun most of the day but see if you can extend the AM coolness a couple hours by keeping them in the morning shade of a tall eastern tree. Since you are in a better climate than me, go for it!