I’ve been reading about Shine Muscat grapes, an expensive variety developed in Japan, also grown in China and Korea. It appears to be quite tasty and might be worth growing here. A Web search shows that it is available at Etsy and might have been available at Amazon at one time; I don’t think that I can get it in Canada.
Has anyone on this forum grown this variety or knows someone who has? I couldn’t even find what hardiness zones it tolerates, but I did find a cutting seller in Korea, zone 8.
I’ve been disappointed with the big, expensive, crisp “muscat” grapes I’ve gotten. I’m not sure of cultivar or brands, but they’ve been more like the super sweet, bland, crisp American table grapes from the supermarket and not enough muscat flavor and aroma for me.
Thanks, murky. Have you tried Jupiter, a muscat hybrid? I planted a vine recently and tasted the first grapes this year. I liked it and was wondering how it compares to the muscat grapes that you’ve tasted.
I have Jupiter. I like it. It’s not the strongest muscat flavor, but much more than the ones I mentioned above and has done well for me.
I am new to Salem. When is the best time to graft peaches?
It’s good to share results. You may be interested in Joereals’s PLC formulas. I will be testing his this spring just before bud swell. He says it controls aphids as well as PLC, so that’s appealing to me: Safe Organic Control of Peach Leaf Curl and other Fungal Diseases
Dennis
Kent wa
Callusing temperatures of Fruit and Nut trees
Posted on May 21, 2013 by qwertyqweryt61
People ask me what are optimum callusing temperatures to ensure a good percentage of viable grafts.
Nectarines/Peaches – 18-26 deg C. ( 64.4 to 78.8F)
Apricots/Cherries – 20 deg C. ( 68F)
Plums – 16 deg C. ( 60.8 F)
Apples/Pears – 13-18 deg C. ( 55.4 to 64.4F)
Walnuts – 27 deg C. (80.6 F)
Grapes – 21-24 deg C. ( 69.8 to 75.2 F).
Figs - 23.9- 29.4 deg C. ( 75-85 F).
For peaches it’s a bit tricky here in NW because you really need to wait until ambient daily highs remain above 70 F and nighttime lows stay above 60F. The rootstock is growing vigorously for best percent take
Dennis
Kent, Wa
West of the cascades you’ll only get a few days at a time when the low is 60 or higher. The average low in July and August is around 58.
Thanks, I meant 50F or higher, sorry for typo
Dennis
Interesting. I have no trouble grafting dormant plums to peach in the summer, and no luck grafting dormant peach scions. I’ve assumed because of the quality of the scion wood.
Seems better to bud graft in August with freshly harvested budwood.
Agree they are not so interchangeable as you might think. For some reason peach scions need more heat than plum scions to callous. Plums can be grafted very early until mid August and are much more amenable to using green scions later in the summer as long as there are mature buds inside the leaf axils. I graft plums from mid March through mid August, but I do the early grafting on potted ones that I place in the greenhouse. Peaches just no point in trying too early.
Dennis
I’ll post the results in couple of months. IMO, Joereal’s formula might not work for PNW climate, H2O2 I am using is 27% much stronger than regular H2O2.
Be careful handling that stuff.I cleaned ceilings,using about 10% Hydrogen Peroxide as a catalyst and it caused skin irritation.Treat it like an acid.
I had very good luck doing peaches last year in the fall. Far better than my spring grafting. The spring grafts were less than 50%. My fall graft takes were almost all successfull. I did them all mid September and saw new growth before dormancy. Same trees, same scions, same whip and tongue and cleft grafts. Way different results.
Thanks for the info, Dennis. From weather forecasts it seems that August may be best time of year for peaches here in Salem.
The last few runs of the GFS model are showing a weeklong hard freeze with lows in the low teens starting in about 10 days, so it might be a good time to check on the condition of any frost protection you’ve not yet had to pull out this winter:
This is very disappointing to me with the avocados, I was really hoping El Niño would spare them for one winter. Hopefully the models are exaggerating the severity of the cold, but it looks pretty bad…
damn, maybe I should have waited until march to transplant my Shangjuan Lemon.
An arbitrary website from Google search predicts 3 days with lows of 25 or 26 here and daytime highs above freezing. That doesn’t sound so bad.
I hope yours ends up being warmer and not an avocado disaster.
The next GFS went even colder, with the sounding showing lows of 14°F, 13°F, and 15°F for three nights in a row for my GPS coordinates here in West Seattle. There are huge error bars on the 10+ day model output, but still the trend in the last few is colder and colder. Looks like the jet stream might get a kink in it that will be aligned almost perfectly with the Fraser Valley, setting us up for lots of cold air in the Cascadian lowlands.
Various sites have a huge range of forecasts. Is GFS more accurate?
GFS is the main model used by weather forecasters in the U.S., so no it’s not more accurate because the smart humans who study weather often overrule what the model says. But usually if the GFS keeps trending one way, the forecasters catch up eventually.
This is the jet stream pattern it shows happening repeatedly for almost a week in mid-January, which pumps cold air down the Fraser Valley into Western WA:
