Looks like they have renamed it as Monterey Complete Disease control. It has Bacillus Amyloliquefaciens strain D747 and its metabolites.
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I have been experimenting with using horsetail tea as a fungicide spray. Preliminary results (1 season) suggest this is very effective as a general fungicide. However, my peach tree is a Frost which is nearly immune to PLC anyway. Might be worth looking into. I like the idea of using peroxide. I have used a peroxide spray on a tree badly infected with canker and noticed some improvement and no further spread to other branches.
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Horsetail extract is approved in EU for treating PLC. However, I canāt find any data on its effectiveness and I think the extraction has to be done in a lab/industrial setting to ensure sufficient quantities of phenolic substance to be present.
I checked with our local agent on this plan and they think it could work only if repeated applications are made during dormancy since unlike copper H2O2 has no residual effect.
@Oregon_Fruit_Grow, I would be hesitant to use hydrogen peroxide with bacillus fearing it would kill the bacillus. Or is my ignorance flag flying for all to see? Edited for spellingā¦
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Monterey fungicide will be sprayed 2-4 hrs after H2O2 spray. Good catch, Iāll update my post.
I have a local supply of fresh horsetail that I added to a big pot and boiled to make a tea. Seems to be effective.
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Is there an objection to copper sprays? I applied two sprays on Redhaven last season and had no PLC.
I think that copper is acceptable for organic growers. The only potential problem that Iāve read about is copper buildup in the soil, but I suspect that this is not a problem here, with our high yearly rainfall total. It might be more of a problem in Portland, which probably gets less than half of our rainfall total, which I guess is about 80 inches. And I water fruit trees regularly during the dry summers.
For anyone near a stream, there can be runoff concerns. Can impact native invertebrates badly, and maybe harm spawning fish. On a small scale Iām sure itās fine, but itās still something to be aware of. Hereās the warning on the Bonide label, for instance:
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All of that is something to keep in mind, but it doesnāt apply to my case: gardening in the middle of an urban area on a 50 ft city lot. The soil has excellent drainage properties; so, the only thing getting contaminated slightly is the groundwater. The copper content of the groundwater will be diluted to harmless levels before it gets very far from the source.
And scale is important for something like this. The amount of copper involved on a city lot is minute compared to what is applied to acres of orchards. And there are very few people in the neighborhood who ever use copper sprays.
Another aspect to consider is the type of copper spray. Iāve read that fixed copper is a more effective fungicide than copper sulfate; but, until recently, Iāve only been able to buy copper sulfate, which is water soluble, unlike fixed copper. So, copper sulfate is less likely to build up in the soil. Iāve just bought some copper octanoate, a fixed copper, to try out but havenāt used it yet.
One more thing to examine is the soil ph. Iāve read that copper sprays are more water soluble in acid soils; so, they should leach out more readily in the soils of the rainy Pacific Northwest.
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Spraying copper will be my last resort if all experimental treatments fail to help. If I endup using copper I plan to start with the Bonide Copper Soap (1.8% MCE) and graduate to Liqi-Cop (MCE 8%).
I was curious if anybody has a good recommendation for sourcing stone fruit, pear, apple, and quince rootstocks.
For small quantities, I have used Burnt Ridge Nursery and Rain tree Nursery. Prices tend to be higher at Rain tree, but I have been satisfied with quality. Downside is neither has a lot of choices for different rootstocks
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Thanks you for the suggestions.
Iāve been reading about Shine Muscat grapes, an expensive variety developed in Japan, also grown in China and Korea. It appears to be quite tasty and might be worth growing here. A Web search shows that it is available at Etsy and might have been available at Amazon at one time; I donāt think that I can get it in Canada.
Has anyone on this forum grown this variety or knows someone who has? I couldnāt even find what hardiness zones it tolerates, but I did find a cutting seller in Korea, zone 8.
Iāve been disappointed with the big, expensive, crisp āmuscatā grapes Iāve gotten. Iām not sure of cultivar or brands, but theyāve been more like the super sweet, bland, crisp American table grapes from the supermarket and not enough muscat flavor and aroma for me.
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Thanks, murky. Have you tried Jupiter, a muscat hybrid? I planted a vine recently and tasted the first grapes this year. I liked it and was wondering how it compares to the muscat grapes that youāve tasted.
I have Jupiter. I like it. Itās not the strongest muscat flavor, but much more than the ones I mentioned above and has done well for me.
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I am new to Salem. When is the best time to graft peaches?
Itās good to share results. You may be interested in Joerealsās PLC formulas. I will be testing his this spring just before bud swell. He says it controls aphids as well as PLC, so thatās appealing to me: Safe Organic Control of Peach Leaf Curl and other Fungal Diseases
Dennis
Kent wa
Callusing temperatures of Fruit and Nut trees
Posted on May 21, 2013 by qwertyqweryt61
People ask me what are optimum callusing temperatures to ensure a good percentage of viable grafts.
Nectarines/Peaches ā 18-26 deg C. ( 64.4 to 78.8F)
Apricots/Cherries ā 20 deg C. ( 68F)
Plums ā 16 deg C. ( 60.8 F)
Apples/Pears ā 13-18 deg C. ( 55.4 to 64.4F)
Walnuts ā 27 deg C. (80.6 F)
Grapes ā 21-24 deg C. ( 69.8 to 75.2 F).
Figs - 23.9- 29.4 deg C. ( 75-85 F).
For peaches itās a bit tricky here in NW because you really need to wait until ambient daily highs remain above 70 F and nighttime lows stay above 60F. The rootstock is growing vigorously for best percent take
Dennis
Kent, Wa
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