Pawpaws in 2026!

Starting to get discouraged up here.

I have a half dozen larger trees that are very slow to push growth in the top 1/3. There’s a few 5 year trees that just have a few nubs of push coming from older nodes and no growth otherwise. I have a Maria’s Joy with one bud with a 1” leaf and the rest of the tree has done nothing.

I just grafted a couple of suckers that came from my Carmelo tree that almost croaked. It is strongly growing now, but when I went to graft the 2 suckers, there was some blue staining of the wood. One had some blue in the pith again like I saw on some other pruned trees this spring. 2 other seedlings on the side of the yard are almost completely dead. I pruned them and they were mostly brown phloem. Another seedling in the corner of the yard had a few decent leaves on it, but when I went to graft it it had a deep blue pith and some brownish wood. I had to get near the ground to find anything that looked even somewhat healthy. I was getting eaten alive and had already cut the wedge of the scion so I rolled with it.

The younger trees a little up the hill from there look like they’re in better shape despite some minor tip die back. So I’m not sure what happened between that upper part and lower section.

The coldest min was only -6F. I’ve had -17F with 40mph winds before and had no issues. The trees broke dormancy in mid/late May. I didn’t have a low temp below freezing that month.

The only issue I can think of is I had a 22F in late April and maybe it was late enough and cold enough to do some vascular damage. It doesn’t explain why one section of trees was okay and the other wasn’t.

Maybe there’s something in the soil causing issues? Some other fungal issue that I deal with in the damp north? I always think back to those old Ithaca experimental orchards and how many of the trees died there. I’m tempted to just start planting seedlings here from good crosses.

Anyone else see any issues this spring?

When is the end of pawpaw grafting season for everyone?

I’m here in NJ, zone 7a and have had a few grafts fail but I have a ton of scion left. I don’t want to waste my time if it’s too late. Very new to grafting but I’ve had pretty good success so far in my first season.

That does sound like a bummer. I think you are on to something. Maybe the cooler growing season limits how much reserve energy the trees have, and combine that with late cold snaps hitting the trees probably leaves them vunerable. Are they in shade or full sun? The worst ones I would seriously consider stumping, encourage suckers for at least a year, then thin and graft accordingly. Hopefully your trees have enough juice left to bounce back and grow new stems. If they can I would hope that they regrow quickly enough to outpace whatever fungal issue they have. What is the soil like?

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Keep going, as long as you have rootstock that is growing. Too hot is 90+

Yes, as you know. I haven’t been up to my folks place near you yet but down here I’m seeing some strange signs

My KY legend titan is pushing a bit more growth above the graft, but it’s coming in sideways.

When I pruned the dead wood above, it was blackish on one side.

on the bright side, the KSU seedlings that showed no growth last year are growing nicely this year. Should I be trimming these big shoots back to one central leader?

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happen to do any susquehanna on chappell? i have a chappell in a container with a flat top that i might try and put a susquehanna on.

Id let the small ones just keep growing, winter pruning is invigorating. The KYLT definitely concerns me, that tree might not make it.

No, I already have a Susquehanna tree. Mostly grafting early varieties for friends zone 5b farm. A few later varieties maybe to give to friends locally and onto my established trees like Tropical Treat.
The May frost killed alot of flowers so might as well prune and graft onto established trees.

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I had many very, very late to show any signs of growth. It was the last week in May before I saw even a leaf on some small trees. The big ones had leaves but lost them in late April.

My winter was like yours: low of -5F and freeze April 21-22 of 24F.

Anything that had leaves and flowers lost them. It was a month before they regrew.

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Full sun until the shadows start creeping in from the west in the late afternoon from the large trees on the west side of the property. I haven’t had my soil tested although I’ve been wanting to do that. It seems okay though. Lush field grass with red and white clover mixed in. I’d guess it’s loamy…a good balance of sand/silt/clay. I put leaf mulch and drop comfrey around the trees a few inches from the trunk. Moisture is really good back there too. I’m on the north side and midpoint of a hill…so there’s usually good soil moisture even a week after it rains. I spread pelletized chicken manure through there once or twice a season, but that’s it. No chems.

I don’t get the extreme low temps like they do down in the river valley either. On radiational cooling nights they’ll be pulling a 30F freeze down the road while I’m sitting at 33-34F.

Considering posts from others…it’s probably tied in with the cold event in April. I didn’t have buds pushing, but they were getting that “look” of waking up. I remember commenting that some of the previous year’s wood was looking a lot darker than I can previously recall seeing. Those ended up being most of the branches that are struggling (minus a summer delight that is growing vigorously right now). We had 4 straight days of 79, 73, 71, 73 in mid April followed up by the 22F a few days later.

Anyway, thanks for the replies everyone. I think I just needed to vent a little. Most of the trees are still alive. Two that aren’t really waking up much are OGW trees (MJ and Allegheny) that have never had much vigor to begin with. The other is Sunflower and I had 2 of those anyway. Just gotta roll with the punches being this far north.

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Yup…same freeze. 4/21

That’s how the wood looked on some of those seedlings I tried to graft. I kept going down to get as much green as possible.

Poughkeepsie NY Zone 6A…I suggest the issues are related to the extreme drought experienced in the north east last Aug thru Oct…here, we got less than 3/4 inch of rain in 8 weeks when 6 inches was about normal…up till then, I never saw anything but a vigorous looking conformation on all my trees…they are planted in good soil and in a good location that rarely if ever dries out…well, this time it did and I saw a definite stressed look in the trees…especially the Chappell…also the Chappell had a few leaves infected with Phyllosticta for the first time in 6 years…so I was able to drag the hose down there and for the first and only time in the last 4.5 years watered the patch thoroughly in late September… just before the fruit was to ripen…well the result was dramatic…the fruit seemed to blow up like balloons after the water uptake and the trees perked up…also one Chappell fruit cracked badly as the water take up was too fast for the skin to adjust…did your trees set much fruit this year?..I think flower buds for this year could have been adversely affected by extreme drought late last summer…detail your issues with some of the LLMs and see what they come up with… you just have to sort out which one and what to believe from them…but they do often give insight…here is the Gemini response to my query…anything stand out?..also try Grok / Perplexity and others…good luck…Beemster

Gemini: Flower buds on pawpaws (Asimina triloba) are typically initiated (formed) in late summer, specifically late July through early August.

They form on the previous year’s (one-year-old) wood/growth. These buds become visible and distinguishable in winter (floral buds are rounder and fuzzier; vegetative/leaf buds are narrower and more pointed). They then bloom in early to mid-spring (often March–May, before or as leaves emerge, depending on location and weather).

This timing aligns with many temperate fruit trees, where reproductive buds differentiate in summer using current-season resources (photosynthates from leaves), then overwinter and develop the following spring.

Could a severe late drought (Aug–Oct) cause buds to abort the next spring?

Yes, it’s possible and plausible. A severe drought during late summer/early fall overlaps with or immediately follows the main period of flower bud initiation. Drought stress at this time can:

  • Reduce carbohydrate reserves and overall tree vigor.
  • Impair bud development or cause abortion/drop of initiated buds.
  • Lead to poorer bud quality, resulting in lower bloom success, weaker flowers, or failure to set fruit the next spring.

Pawpaws are native to humid, moist bottomland areas and prefer consistent moisture (though established trees have some drought tolerance). Late-season stress is particularly impactful because the tree is storing reserves for the next year while finishing fruit ripening (which also occurs Aug–Oct). Low light or other stresses can similarly limit bud formation.

Real-world reports show drought affecting pawpaw crops (e.g., smaller/bitter fruit or reduced yields in affected years), and general fruit tree research confirms late-season drought often reduces next-year flowering/fruiting.

Other potential growth issues the next year from such a drought

  • Reduced overall vigor and shoot growth — Smaller leaves, shorter new growth, or dieback due to depleted reserves and possible loss of fine feeder roots.
  • Lower fruit set or smaller/lower-quality fruit — Even if buds open, stressed trees often have poorer pollination success, fruit drop, or undersized fruit.
  • Increased susceptibility to pests/diseases — Weakened trees are more prone to borers, cankers, or other issues.
  • Leaf scorch, early fall color, or premature leaf drop (in the drought year itself, carrying over effects).
  • Delayed or uneven bud break the following spring.

Pawpaws are somewhat resilient once established (deep roots help), but a severe late drought would still take a toll, especially on younger or newly planted trees. Mitigation includes deep watering during dry periods, mulching to retain soil moisture, and ensuring good site conditions (rich, well-drained but moist soil in partial shade to full sun).

If your trees showed stress last season, monitor bud health this winter and consider supportive care (e.g., balanced fertilizer in spring, consistent moisture) to help recovery. Sources like university extensions or pawpaw-specific growers (e.g., Kentucky State University research) are great for local advice.


a shot of the patch from my driveway…patch is about 40 feet away down the hill…looking stout…for now…but already got the hose ready.

there are 5 trees down there…big one is Chappell…photo taken around 3:45PM today from my driveway…trees are about 40 feet away down the hill…trees are in shade after about 3PM…the large tree line behind the patch runs north / south.

Gemini response to my drought question:

Yes, it has been exceptionally dry in Poughkeepsie this spring. If you’ve been wondering why lawns are looking a bit crispy or why the region is feeling unusually parched, the data backs you up completely.

The numbers behind the dry spell, along with a rather unique local impact, highlight the severity of the situation.

The Numbers Behind the Dry Spell

According to data from the U.S. Drought Monitor and regional climate tracking:

  • A Historic Deficit: The period from January through May ranked as the 6th driest start to a year in the region over the past 132 years.
  • Missing Rainfall: Poughkeepsie and the broader Dutchess County area faced a massive precipitation deficit, tracking roughly 5.41 inches below normal for the year to date.
  • A Parched May: May offered very little relief, tracking as the 25th driest May on record, with rainfall dipping more than 1.5 inches below the historical average.

The Local Impact: The Hudson River “Salt Front”

The lack of spring rain has had a direct and weirdly specific impact on Poughkeepsie’s infrastructure.

Because spring rainfall has been too weak to push freshwater down the Hudson River with its usual force, a “salt front” from the Atlantic Ocean has managed to creep much further upstream than usual.

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my survivors just survive. i don’t ever see much new growth. got to have hope though. and I’m always trying to start more from seed.

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I think if I go much lower, I get below @Blake’s graft. I should still have a strong rootstock to graft something else to.

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Fresh stem is always better than going lower. Fresh stem will be more vigorous anyway, so youre not really loosing any time

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Right, but everything below there was clearly dead wood, and where I cut to has that weird black on the side anyway…

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Yea anything dead just cut it out. I was suggesting cutting it flush with the ground.

Some of my pawpaws coming in with very light yellow leaves. Any suggestions on how to ameliorate? These are in heavy clay/sand fill.

Might need a lil nitrogen. Picture is worth a thousand words