Ok,
I hope you are correct 
this is why I added (as needed) to the cover sprays. I believe I’ll need to have flexibility for pest and disease pressures because no two growing seasons will ever be the same.
I will try and search for Alan’s spray guide on the internet. But if you have a link it would be most helpful.
Thanks for all the sound advise, I appreciate you.
One the top left corner of a page, there are a few symbols. Look for the symbol of a 3 short line.
Click on the symbol, it will show all the categories of this forum
Click on the word, Categories
Scroll down to Guides.
All kinds of guides including spray guides are there.
Here’s Alan’s update version
Like I said, spraying depend on pest pressure. Where I am, I would be lucky if I could get away with 5 spray. Mostly more than that to battle diseases and pest before, during and after bloom.
Are you including peaches? 5 sprays for peaches? Just wondering.
Yes, peaches and nectarines. I am not the only one on the east coast who need to spray peaches and nectarines more than 3 spray a year to get good crop. I am not talking about 90 or 100% good crop. If I can get 70-80% of peaches with no worm or brown rot, I am happy.
I didn’t see it listed but may have missed it, but @JoeReal has an organic spray that might be of interest.
Thanks for the info. I was just wondering. We have a lot of pest pressure here but only apples are difficult. Peaches are easy here.
I would like to see scientific evidence that this spray cocktail works.
Thank you for the link to here 
I did search the internet for “Alan’s Spray Guide” needless to say it was not fruitful no pun intended.
It’s just the opposite here in 6B southern Illinois. I’m not the only one in my neck of the woods who equates young peach and appricots trees to children. It seems as though they have to catch everything before the build immunity even though I have planted mostly resistant varieties. One thing we don’t have is leaf curl, where as it seems to be common in other parts of the country.
Apples / pears do well on their own here but peaches and appricots is a battle to keep them alive while young. if peach tree borers don’t take them out first.
Trust me I would really like to say I don’t spray young non-bearing peach trees. But if I didn’t spray them, I honestly believe they wouldn’t come back after winter.
I live in a ag area called the heartland where things just grow crazy fast. With that comes fungus and insects and lots of them.
Just the opposite here. Apples grow well here with not much care. We have apple orchards all over the state. Pears are OK. I was doing with pears for 10+ years but this year is difficult. Sooty blotch and other fungal issues have defoliate leaves and stunted fruit.
I don’t recall any large peach orchards around here . There is a small peach orchard as part of a big apple farm near me. It has no peaches this year because of Feb freeze. I guess if growing peaches is easy like apples, there would be more peach orchards around but there is not.
How many trees do you have?
I have never heard of trees building immunity to disease.
Just 6 at the moment. I’m trying different varieties to see which will do well and which won’t. Once I figure that out and how to care for them (spray schedule). I will put in 2x 330 foot production rows. I would like an early cling and a later free for the production rows.
Currently I have:
2 Rich May
1 Red Haven
1 Contender
1 Reliance
1 Loring
The two rich may my wife purchased from rural king I hope the are truly are rich may (they were tagged Flavorich)
I have 2 rich mays one of which produced for the first time this year. It was awesome but totally cling stone. Fine with me as I don’t mind eating them off the pit, but no good for processing, fruit salad etc.
The flavor was definitely first rate.
I highly recommend some of the new peaches from Rutgers University. I have Tiana and Selena.
They are more disease resistant I think.
Tiana has not produced for me but Selena is unreal. Selena is by far the finest textured and most flavorful peach I have eaten to date.
It sounds like you are on your way. I think you might benefit by learning how to monitor for pests.
I am not good at it yet but seems like it could save you a lot of sprays.
I’ll look into those varieties thanks for mentioning them I have hope for the rich mays, they grew a lot this year. I hope they flower this spring, they should.
Last year not knowing any better… I fertilized with nitrogen after July 15, actually up untill leaf fall. July 15 is our cut off date for fertilization of peaches and appricots. The tips didn’t have time to harden before winter set in and every tip on every branch big or small died on all the peach and appricots I had planted. I had to prune everyone of them back a good 6 inches into green wood.
I donget bug reports from the “country grape vine” it’s faster than the internet. I also watch the guninees they were having a field day in the orchard today, best bug catching critters I know, even better than my turkeys. But you are right again I should learn about monitoring for pests something to study up on this winter.
Thanks again for the reply
Does anyone use sulfur for peaches? I started reading labels and I’m just curious if anyone can speak to the use of sulfur and it’s effectiveness.
Thanks
For peaches, captan and sevin will take care of most everything.
I also was impressed with Selena as it performs in NY- it does take about 10 years to truly get a handle on the performance of any given variety, but I am an impatient man. Peaches that get slightly higher brix are the holy grail in my region- only about 2 points is the difference between sublime and mediocre with peaches… according to my palate.
It’s the fact that nectarines pretty consistently get at least that much higher than peaches that inspires me to invest more in them than peaches… and they require a lot of investment in the humid region. This year a huge crop in my orchard of earlier nects, specifically Artic Glo, Silver Gem and Jade were largely useless, seed splitting was so bad it was nearly impossible to hold back brown rot, although I got a decent crop of Silver Gem, my best performing early white. Jade, which is an impressive nectarine when weather conditions cooperate, was nearly hopeless because along with split pits came deep cracking due to their larger size, I suppose.
We did get a lot of rain at the wrong time, but it appeared that the ovaries might have been damaged all the way back in February because so much of the fruit had that split pit squat shape even before our mini-monsoon.
Early peaches were also split to hell but they are less prone to rot… and not just brown rot but a black mold that starts at the pits. Saucer peaches are as bad as nects, in this regard, though. They also give you that 2 point brix boost here so I keep growing Tango’s and Saturn in spite of their difficulty.
My site is a bit of a hollow with a lot of shelter from breezes so dew is heavy and persistent. Sites more open to breezes make things easier, I think because dew and rain dries out more quickly. I was at a site yesterday with both Saturn and Tangos performing fairly well compared to mine and I haven’t sprayed them with fungicide for a month. At least my site is resistant to periods of drought.