Peach Spray Schedule (USA Zone 6B Midwest)

[JesusisLordandChrist]

Does anyone have an effective peach spray schedule for Midwest Zone 6B?

Also looking at samples on line that include copper. There is mixed messages about using copper, some say a big NO, others say yes. Perhaps some discussion (pros / cons) on using copper might help me.

Here is a sample commercial schedule for peaches from UK

Sample spray guide for peaches

Here is an interesting publication; Do’s and Don’ts for Using Copper to Control Peach Bacterial Spot from Rutgers Cooperative Extension.

Do’s and Don’ts for Using Copper to Control Peach Bacterial Spot

Thanks

[Nfg831_Z6b]

I’m in 6b Virginia, and pretty much follow the Virginia Tech schedule for my fruit. For stone fruits I mainly use fungonil, captan, seven, triazacide. Once my trees are bigger, I will get a spray license and switch to more cost effective sprays. And for the copper, I use it with oil for my dormant spray.

VT Schedule:
https://www.virginiafruit.ento.vt.edu/SprayGuide/HomeFruitSprays.html

[JesusisLordandChrist]

Commercial Peach/Stone Fruit Spray Schedule Worksheet & Sample Spray Guide PPFS-FR-T-23

Commercial Apple Fungicide Spray Schedule Worksheet & Sample Spray Guides PPFS-FR-T-19

Link to Tree Fruit Disease Management & Production Information (Commercial) section of page

https://plantpathology.ca.uky.edu/extension/publications#TREEFRUIT

Lots of good info here from UKY

[JesusisLordandChrist]

From purdue university

Massive amounts of info for Midwest and surrounding states. It says pest management but it’s much more than just pest management. click on view the guide. I may order a print copy of this.

Midwest Fruit Pest Management Guide

[JesusisLordandChrist]

Do You guys think this spray schedule is a good place to start? Maybe yield half way decent peaches?

Dormant - Oil

Bloom - Captan

Petal Fall - Captan or Sulfur or Chlorothalonil plus Malathion

Shuck Split - Captan or Sulfur or Chlorothalonil plus Malathion

Cover Sprays (every 7 to 10 days) - Captan or Sulfur or Chlorothalonil plus Malathion

Trunk & lower limbs - (May 30, June 30, July 15 and after harvest) esfenvlerate or Gamma-cyhalothrin. Peach Tree Borer

Leaf fall - Copper

Thanks

[ribs1]

I think that’s overdoing it for peaches. I don’t spray anything dormant. I spray rally and avaunt at petal fall and spray rally and assail 2 weeks later.
I’m in zone 6a, Michigan. I get mostly clean peaches
I don’t spray copper as I am not worried about leaf curl. Leaf curl is mostly cosmetic, the curled leaves drop and the tree makes new ones. If curl is that much of a problem, it’s better to grow more resistant varieties.

[mamuang]

Chlorothalonil should not be use after shuck split due to its long lasting effect. The label will tell you that.

How often you spray depending on how much pressure of pests and diseases you have.

[JesusisLordandChrist]

You are correct and this is a newbie mistake on my behalf. Thank You for taking time to point out my error. This is what I like about this forum, wisdom and willingness to contribute

I have readjusted my peach spray schedule.as follows:

Dormant - Oil

Bloom - Captan

Petal Fall - Captan or Sulfur or Chlorothalonil plus Malathion

Shuck Split - Captan or Sulfur plus Malathion

Cover Sprays (every 7 to 10 days as needed) - Captan or Sulfur plus Malathion

Trunk & lower limbs - (May 30, June 30, July 15 and after harvest) esfenvlerate or Gamma-cyhalothrin. Peach Tree Borer.

Leaf fall - Copper

Allways read and follow labels!

[JesusisLordandChrist]

Perhaps overdoing it. But the few peach trees I have are young, too young to flower and I’m battling shot hole and now entomosporium leaf spot (ELS). I would like to try and get a handle on those during dormancy.

Thanks for the reply I need to look into these

[ribs1]

It sounds like you are planning to spray non bearing trees which is probably a waste of time, energy and chemicals. Shot hole is a bacteria so you would have to add an antibiotic also.
In my experience, there is no reason to treat shot hole. Also no reason to treat els in non bearing trees.
If your trees are actually damaged by these diseases, it’s better to start with resistant varieties than to fight these things for years.
Definitely no reason to spray insecticides on non bearing trees.
You have way too many sprays for peaches. Generally no reason to treat leaf curl either unless you are a commercial orchard trying to get absolute maximum production.

Once bearing you will likely get clean fruit with 3-4 sprays per year.

[ribs1]

I would suggest you read Alan’s spray schedule. I have been following it for years with great success. Hopefully he will chime in here.

[JesusisLordandChrist]

I put this spray schedule out here, with the hope that you all will poke at it with sharp sticks. So please, by all means poke at it. When the poking is done, I hope to have a good “start here” spray schedule that can be adapted accordingly to pest and disease pressures. Please don’t think your going to make me sour by commenting, because it won’t happen.

Thank You all for commenting so far. You’ve taught me far more than I thought I would learn already

[ribs1]

Ok,

1. Read Alan’s spray guide. This is probably the best start here spray guide on the internet.
2. Don’t spray non bearing fruit trees.
3. Usually you don’t need to spray peaches more than 3 times
4. Peach leaf curl is mostly cosmetic. Some leaves curl, fall off and the tree grows new leaves. Only matters to commercial growers that need optimal production per acre. Peach leaf curl will very rarely harm a tree.

[JesusisLordandChrist]

@ribs1

Once bearing you will likely get clean fruit with 3-4 sprays per year.

I hope you are correct this is why I added (as needed) to the cover sprays. I believe I’ll need to have flexibility for pest and disease pressures because no two growing seasons will ever be the same.

@ribs1

Read Alan’s spray guide. This is probably the best start here spray guide on the internet.

I will try and search for Alan’s spray guide on the internet. But if you have a link it would be most helpful.

Thanks for all the sound advise, I appreciate you.

[mamuang]

One the top left corner of a page, there are a few symbols. Look for the symbol of a 3 short line.
Click on the symbol, it will show all the categories of this forum
Click on the word, Categories
Scroll down to Guides.
All kinds of guides including spray guides are there.
Here’s Alan’s update version

Low Spray Synthetic Short Version

This is to be used after you read my longer version. More materials are listed there. I thought it might be useful for a quick reference. Keep in mind that this is only fully tested in the northeast and as you go further south more protection and sprays tend to be needed, maybe further north, even less. 1st spray Horticultural oil and myclobutanil fungicide at highest rates. Usually best applied when trees have started growing but a couple days before blossoms begin to open. Generally be…

Like I said, spraying depend on pest pressure. Where I am, I would be lucky if I could get away with 5 spray. Mostly more than that to battle diseases and pest before, during and after bloom.

[ribs1]

Are you including peaches? 5 sprays for peaches? Just wondering.

[mamuang]

Yes, peaches and nectarines. I am not the only one on the east coast who need to spray peaches and nectarines more than 3 spray a year to get good crop. I am not talking about 90 or 100% good crop. If I can get 70-80% of peaches with no worm or brown rot, I am happy.

[disc4tw]

I didn’t see it listed but may have missed it, but @JoeReal has an organic spray that might be of interest.

Safe Organic Control of Peach Leaf Curl and other Fungal Diseases

Safe Organic Control Of Peach Leaf Curl and other Fungal Diseases It also controls brown rot and other insects. I came up with this recipe based on the knowledge of the excellent anti-fungal properties of Melaleuca (Tea Tree) oil and vinegar. Neem oil has also some anti-fungal and insecticidal properties. The soap acts as an emulsifier and sticker. My peaches and Nectarines have been disease free. No peach leaf curl, no mildew, no brown rot on the fruits, and no aphids. This recipe is so safe…

[ribs1]

Thanks for the info. I was just wondering. We have a lot of pest pressure here but only apples are difficult. Peaches are easy here.

[ribs1]

I would like to see scientific evidence that this spray cocktail works.