This is to be used after you read my longer version. More materials are listed there. I thought it might be useful for a quick reference. Keep in mind that this is only fully tested in the northeast and as you go further south more protection and sprays tend to be needed, maybe further north, even less.
1st spray Horticultural oil and myclobutanil fungicide at highest rates. Usually best applied when trees have started growing but a couple days before blossoms begin to open. Generally before buds show any white or pink, but a peek of color is OK. Apply oil at 1% unless you are spraying pears for pslya, then you may want to go as high as 3% at very first green, or just before that if you need to control pear blister mite, which, in my climate, is rarely more than a cosmetic pest.
2nd spray- generally essential. Captan and Myclobutanil at highest rates tank mixed with new formula Sevin (pyrethroid) or one of the other insecticides listed in long version also at highest legal rate.
In my climate I can wait until last apples have dropped most of their petals and are no longer attractive to bees. The main insect pest at this time is plum curculio and they consistently wait until at least a short stretch of warm weather to really feast on fruit.
3rd spray 10-14 days later Same as second spray except its better for stone fruit if you replace myclo with Bonide Infuse.
Peaches and plums may need a single spray of fungicide to help control brown rot in mid-summer. Mix the Infuse with Captan at highest rates. My app time for this is usually from July 7th to 14.
What I have to say about organic production of fruit: At a few sites I get good results with Surround and now believe 3 sprays 9-10 days apart starting at petal fall works fine most seasons. Before I thought a tighter schedule was needed. Unlike Scott’s warnings, we don’t return every time there is heavy rain and it just hasn’t been a problem so far. That kind of persistence is very difficult when you are personally handling spraying for over 50 orchards (I have other companies doing half the spraying of orchards I manage).
The best Surround results occur with also using some synthetic fungicide, but a couple of clients have been pleased with results without that, but they don’t grow Euro plums or nectarines and the peaches tend to be fuzzier varieties.
Instead of Infuse, I use Indar or Pristine mixed with Captan. If all you have is Captan you will probably need to perform more sprays, but I cannot offer insight on least you can get away with… guidance for commercial growers usually involves much more frequency of sprays than I have found is needed in home orchards. The problem I think with Captan is that it has no ability to kill existing infections and so commercial growers around here usually keep it on the plant all growing season until harvest with bi-weekly sprays over the summer months.
Another legal insecticide possibility to receive through mail from suppliers like Keystone is to combine Avaunt and Assail in the tank. Assail has some kickback and is stronger against fruit bugs than Avaunt. However, the label states that Avaunt can only be used on fruit intended for sale, so at the time you spray I guess you have to intend to sell at least some of it. Hmmmm?
These are packaged for the commercial market but probably will last in cool storage for at least a decade, I figure (without evidence, but they are dry formulas).