It is from North Carolina. Although the guide is for commercial peach growers, the info provided can be useful for backyard growers as well. I particularly like the two charts comparing effectiveness of chemicals used to control pests and diseases. Some of those chemicals are the same ones used by backyard growers. It is helpful to see how effective they are against common pests and diseases.
I’ve struggled with what I should use for all these years. If (more like when now) I move over to harsher chemicals, I will definitely try to be very careful not to harm beneficials insects (or myself and my neighbors)
I do think I can go harder on spraying. I spray all my trees with one gallon. Probably don’t do a good enough coverage. I feel bad about adding copper to the soil so I try to stop before “drip point”. For me disease pressure hasn’t been too bad yet. Mostly because I haven’t had much fruit thanks to squirrels.
Proper variety selection and orchard hygiene can go a long way towards achieving quality fruit. Of course, nectarines in the South, are brown rot magnets for most varieties, to the point where, I’ve removed most of them.
On the other hand, peaches are much easier to grow. The only thing I spray for is PC. I’ve never had to spray for fungal diseases,
I had not seen NSCU’s guide before. Interesting how they rate some insecticides and fungicides. They show Indar and only good for brown rot. I guess I’d expect that compared to some of the new pre-mixes. Still, for a backyard orchardist, I would expect very good control of brown rot with indar.
The herbicides were particularly interesting to me. We spend too much time battling weeds here, so there were some good ideas in the guide.
I’ve had almost 100% success using copper in late winter for leaf curl. Most articles say to use it in late winter when tree is dormant. For Bacteria Spot they recommend use from late winter to shuck split. I do remember reading a research article that recommended using copper from pink to first blossoms open for Leaf Curl also.
Of course, for apples Cornell considers it very effective for scab and CAR as well. This is why I can use Indar in my second post petal fall spray in an attempt to reduce brown rot inoculum. After that a subsequent summer spray of Indar or Pristine is often all I need to counter brown rot in the orchards I manage.
Fungicides that don’t wash off in the rain are extremely helpful in the east where we tend to get rain throughout the growing season.
Indar basically eliminated my brown rot problem. Propiconazole was good, Indar is great.
Are any of the more highly-rated things not too expensive (and not in group 3)? I am using Elevate as my alternating chemical with Indar to keep resistance down, I bought it due to price. I think I have another year or two supply of it before I will be looking for something to replace it.
It depends on the concentration of acetic acid in the vinegar. It also depends on the pH of the water and the alkalinity (ability to resist acidification).
For my water, one teaspoon of citric acid per 16 gallons of water, will bring my pH down to 5.9, which is about where I like it for Captan, or any other pesticide subject to alkaline hydrolysis.
Vinegar of course can be used as an acidifier, but it takes about 24 times the amount of vinegar (by volume) as it does citric acid. So one teaspoon of vinegar will acidify about 2/3 of a gallon of water at the 5.9 pH level. Vinegar is convenient and cheap enough for small batches of spray, but it gets a bit pricey for large volumes of spray.
Wow, so my 7.2 pH water should probably only need about half a teaspoon for my 25 G tank. I’m thinking of using it instead of the chemical penetrant and acidifier I’ve been using. I’m not sure I really need the penetrant, although I tend to go for overkill. The crap can be dangerous if you splash it into your eyes.