It’s possible for overlapping pollen and receptivity on the same tree. It’s not the same as another pollinating it, however. The nuts are smaller and less filled and ‘there are problems’ within self pollinating.

Here we’ve seen ‘Shepherd’ overlap itself every year.



Protandrous varieties quite often overlap pollen shed with pistillate receptivity. It is one of the things I screened for when setting up the pollination spreadsheet. Look in the columns for I, II, or O where I means protandrous, II means protogynous, and O means protandrous with overlap. Sometimes a tree will get blown in pollen from miles away which is one way native pecans maintain genetic diversity.


I’ll throw this one into the mix… earliest ripening pecan here has been Peruque… sometimes as early as 15-21 September.
Small nut (80-90/lb) with exceptionally thin shell and beautiful bright kernel. Unfortunately, it’s really scab susceptible, and some years the weevils, jays and crows get nearly all the nuts.


Hello to everyone again. Unfortunately, there is no production of Hark type in the country. There’s only Pawnee. Oswego and Lucas couldn’t find it either. The only option was pawnee stayed with Kanza.


So you are able to purchase Pawnee grafted trees and Kanza grafted trees?

There’s nothing wrong with that man. So you spray more (if) your climate says so. Pollination of the two is incredibly awesome.

Carya illinoinensis pollination compatibility of Pawnee pecan and Kanza pecan:


Awesome chart Darrel made.

That’s great news, Engin. (your name?)



Carya illinoiensis pollination compatibility of Hark pecan and Kanza pecan pollination:




Yes, I can buy Dax. I’m gonna plant Pawnee and Kanza in this case. Thanks.


I contacted Buck Paulk and arranged to buy some grafted Avalon pecan trees this Friday. I will get up to 50 of the 2 to 3 foot tall trees. I will not purchase any that are carrot roots after trying a few last year with poor results.


I wound up with 35 trees in the 2 to 3 foot size and 5 trees 6 to 7 feet. Was particularly pleased with the larger trees though that bundle was all he had.

I watched the grafters setting grafts this afternoon. It was interesting because the “knife” was more like a 2 foot long hoe handle with a 4 inch long by 1 inch wide blade. The guy made a primary cut to start the top separating, then made a smooth cut using the gap from the first cut to make it flat. Then they set a standard whip and tongue graft using white grafting tape.


Hello again to everyone. There is a rectangular garden with an example of 2100m2 above.

I have read that Pawnee is a smaller tree than other Pecan varieties (mature size: 20-30ft x 15-25ft). So I guess Pawnee is more suitable for small gardens.

-Left garden. when green rings should be removed. The green ring will be 10mx10m after removal. Do you need to remove the tree again later? Is 10mx10m garden enough for Pawnee?

  • The garden in the middle. When the green ring trees will be removed. Is it enough for the garden 9mx12m Pawnee. Do you need to remove the tree again.

In the example on the right there is no green ring. Is it enough for planting Pawnee in this way? Is it necessary to remove trees in the following years?

Which of these three examples is better to plant trees.

The garden is a 20% slope from east to west. The wind blows from the northeast.

Barkslip had said to me that Pawnee scab and fungal diseases were moderately resistant. The humidity rate of the region is 65-75%. Do you think Pawnee can stand this? What should I do to fight the disease?

The zinc value of the garden is 1 ppm. Do I need to add zinc to the soil while planting the seedlings?



Sorry… The humidity rate of the region is 65-85%.


Eyber, I would not rely on Pawnee as a primary variety unless you are prepared to spray the trees to control fungal diseases. Kanza is highly resistant to scab so is a much better variety if grown without spraying. I suggest planting primarily Kanza trees because this will result in a lot less difficulty in later years.

With regard to the distance apart, 15 meters between trees will result in much more reliable production for more years. The problem with planting at 15 meters is that early nut production will be limited. This applies until the trees reach about 15 to 20 years old. From that point forward, nut production will be higher with the trees spaced further apart.

For thinning trees, they should be planned such that at least 1 pollinator tree is retained for each 9 of the other variety. Any ratio will work 1:9, 1:6, 1:4, 1:2, or 1:1 so long as you don’t go higher than 1:9. So for example, planting 10 Pawnee and 10 Kanza would be 1:1. Planting 1 Pawnee and 9 Kanza would be 1:9.

The long term goal is to reduce the number of trees gradually so that they wind up with about 25 meters between trees. You could do this by planting initially with rows 14 meters apart and trees in the row separated by 10 meters. Alternatively, the rows could be 12 meters apart and in the row spacing also 12 meters. Over time, remove every other tree in the row, then eventually remove every other row of trees.


Dear Darrel, you’re telling the truth. I think the reason I prefer Pawnee is a smaller tree. I thought it might be preferable for small gardens.

The reduction process makes me sad. It’s a pity to remove the trees after they grow. For small gardens, you have to choose the one with the most trees left.


I have received information from the following site. Top Ayvacik and the other Georgia.
I don’t know how reliable.


I searched a secure address


Pawnee is big trouble due to scab. It’s going to become very big just like the others, ebyer. Pecan trees… there are none for small gardens.

You’re going about this all completely wrong (I must say.)

Listen to Darrel and I and others. You want Kanza and truthfully if can be avoided completely no Pawnee. You’re setting yourself up for major spraying if you don’t use Kanza.

You need to find a grafter that will be able to graft Hark trees for you. I will send the scionwood when you have found this person.



Thank you very much, Dax. Your suggestions are very valuable to me. Okay. I will try to find someone. Then I’m gonna ask you Hark. Thank you so much.


I’ve collected scionwood of about 30 pecan varieties with plans to graft some older trees on my land in a few weeks. Barring incident, I should double my number of grafted trees this spring. I also purchased 40 Avalon trees from Buck Paulk. I have them hilled up in the ground on my land and am planting a few per week.


My Carya aquatica X illinoiensis seed have begun germinating. So far I have about 15. Hopefully, more will follow. I have some land that stays a bit on the wet side during the winter. My plan is to graft pecan and hickory onto these seedlings next year.


This is a poor photo. I took it as I was leaving the farm at dusk. Last year, I top-worked several large wild pecans about 10 feet up. The photo makes the tree look small, but this tree is large enough for me to shimmy up. Prior to grafting last year, I was at least 15 feet tall. It barely put on growth, and I was worried the graft would abort. Finally, it decided to make some gains. I expect it will really take off in the next few months. I braced the graft with a hefty piece of Madake, which I will replace next year.