Pecan

Today I took few photos
First the grafting of Liberty from 2021
The small branch have two nuts. I hope to see these ripen
Second the shot of James grafted in 2022, which have two nuts too.

Last year the James ripen in the first week of November.

Also I want to show you the grafts of 2025 from Thayer and Caney





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Thought I’d post a picture of the results of my few pecan grafts this year. These scion were all Bill Reid’s selections. This was my first attempt at grafting pecans, and got 3 of 4 takes, so was happy with that. Two were on a roostock that lost it’s graft, and the third (top in photo) was on a branch of an existing kanza about 15’ tall.
The fourth graft on another roostock that had lost it’s graft, didn’t take. It put out two new branches, so I’ll attempt a new graft on each of those next year.
The two successful grafts on the rootstock grew extremely vigorously, each putting on 4 or 5 foot of growth. I suppose I’ll take scion from one and attempt to re-graft it on another rootstock next year, and then cut off that branch from the tree it’s on now. Otherwise I assume I’d risk splitting at the crotch down the road. The one that’s up in a mature tree, I’ll also attempt to graft to it’s own rootstock next year.
I used four-flap graft on all. That was a very new experience, since I otherwise 95% do whip and tongue. Compared to the very precise cutting and matching of whip and tongue, this four-flap thing feels really reckless and haphazard. But, it works!
Thanks to all who share so much of their knowledge and experience here, I can’t imagine I could have done this without that knowledge!
IMG_20250819EvenSmaller

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Hi everyone, in the ā€œhickory named selectionsā€ thread I had asked about Ultra Northern Pecan cultivars recommended as seed donor and male parent to grow rootstock for grafts with different hickory cultivars.

I was obliged to transfer here because of a three reply limit within the same topic restricting forum activities for new users. So I am sorry for placing the same content in two places. Thank you for your understanding.

For my site (Southern Germany, 8.4°C (47°F) average and 820mm (32in) rainfall per year, zone 6a) @Fusion_power had suggested Warren 346, Campbell NC-4, Lucas, and Seneca. A dutch nursery suggested Mullahy, Hadu 2, Colby, Gibson, Starking hardy Giant, and Carlson 3. @Lucky_P has given input on grafting compatibility. So here comes my reply:

Thanks to you two for your explanations! @Lucky_P would you have any additional recommendations to the four parent varieties that @Fusion_power suggested already for my rootstock seed orchard? I only have access to three of the four and would like to plant at least 5 different cultivars and find out what thrives best on my site.

Any early maturing Ultra Northern Pecan cultivars that have worked well for yourself or others you know of as seed donor? Also, any comments on the suitability (robustness, maturing time, yield) of the cultivars proposed by the dutch nursery would be very much appreciated.

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Some of the varieties you are interested in are here: Northern Pecans: Pecan Cultivars

Several more are here: https://web.archive.org/web/20230117112951/http://cgru.usda.gov/carya/pecans/pecalph.htm

Wes Rice wrote two books on pecans which would be useful if you care to purchase them. Here is one: Pecans A Grower's Perspective G Wesley Rice 1994 Agriculture Guide | eBay

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Mullahy and Carlson are among the earliest-maturing varieties in Dr. Bill Reid’s KSU orchard. Colby and Peruque(earliest variety I have fruited) are also early-maturing, but very scab-susceptible here. Additionally, Peruque, with its small nut and extremely thin shell, is a preferred target of crows/bluejays/woodpeckers. That said, while I primarily use seedlings of ā€˜Major’, I have used Peruque seedlings as rootstocks in the past, and they have been quite vigorous.
Starking Hardy Giant was a selection from north-central Missouri, in the Brunswick, Missouri area.

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I picked a Nacono pecan from my tree yesterday Oct 09, 2025. The husk was fully separated but had not yet split open. I popped the husk by pinching in and removed the pecan. It was about half size for the variety. This is typical of the first year or two a pecan makes nuts. I updated the pecan maturity chart showing first maturity date.

I have pecans on Avalon and Sumner this year. Avalon should start opening in about 2 weeks and Sumner in about 3 to 4 weeks. Sumner is noted for very late maturity.

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That is a major problem with Sumner. It has a thin shell and it rots quickly in wet weather.

After I ordered it from Willis in 2010 I changed my mind on it but the lady insisted that it was okay for my area. Mine has a little scab but not bad. Stink bugs are a problem.

You may not regret having it though.

I don’t ā€œregretā€ having any of the 40 odd pecan varieties currently growing here at my place. :slight_smile:

I planted Sumner at my parent’s home about 25 years ago. I grafted the tree here at my house from theirs.

All thin shell pecans have problems with stinkbugs. You can spray for them in June, July, and early August to limit damage

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The bulk pecans that I’m seeing online are about $5.00 - 6.00 per pound in-shell. This seller is not too far from me. May drive down there in about the middle of November. Still pricy though.

My two producing pecan tree have grown too much to simply walk up to and shake a lower limb to cause nuts to dislodge from the casings. I can see why commercial growers spend the money on machines to shake the larger trees. The nuts at the top will probably rot otherwise.

Either a pecan weevil or a pecan nut casebearer did this larvae damage. I seeing this too much. Need to spray but from what I have read the advice is to control the adult population and avoid pesticide application directly on the nuts.

Maybe I need to set some traps as the guy in the video illustrates…

Buy 70 feet of 3/8 inch diameter nylon rope. Get an old heavy lawn mower blade. Tie the blade securely to the end of the rope. Toss the blade over a pecan limb and let it fall to the ground. Grab the blade and the loose end of the rope and wrap them together, then pull hard a few times. It isn’t fancy, but it works for trees up to a foot diameter.

p.s. do NOT try this with a walnut tree!

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Can you repost it or link where it is? I got the Oswego and Kanza you sent to take on an established Pawnee. I see why they charge so much for grafted nut trees. Those were my first actual pecan takes in about three years of trying.

http://www.selectedplants.com/miscan/PecanPollination.xlsm

What did you do different to get successful grafts?

Something is amiss with your link to the selectedplants site.

Check it now.

Not working.

Try copying and pasting this URL to your browser removing the quotes on each end.

ā€˜selectedplants.com/miscan/PecanPollination.xlsm’

If it works properly, the file should be stored in your downloads folder. You won’t see a page displayed.

The damage you’re showing looks more like hickory shuckworm to me. I just ignore them as I’ve never seen an effect on nut harvest from them.

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Not much. Maybe a little later with less rain this year. Unfortunately all my walnut grafts bled to death and did not take. I made under cuts and all. Next time I’m going to let the cuts bleed for a lot longer before grafting.

I had to copy and paste to get the download. The link didn’t work for me either.

Think I finally got it right too, although I did not subscribe to anything.