This is what my sisters nice “wild TN” persimmon trees look like. Notice they are both twins (two trunks).
In this pic you can see the bark a little better.
All of the persimmon trees here on my place are quite a bit younger than her trees and the bark on them does not look like hers (yet) but may as they mature.
I have seen big old persimmon trees with the deep checkered bark.
I have a group of 5 or 6 young persimmon trees just off my back yard… assume possibly males ? No fruit on them this year.
I need to correct my post from earlier. I posted a picture of a persimmon labeled JT-02. It wasn’t JT-02. It was Chuchupaka. I just didn’t realize which branch it was on until this past weekend when we had a frost and all the leaves dropped. So, just want to set the record straight from my earlier post about JT-02.
I have. But this particular one wasn’t JT-02. It was the wrong branch on my multi-graft tree. I’ve also got two stand alone JT-02 trees that I’ve fruited.
Pretty close. JT-02 is a little more American in flavor while Ch is a little more honeyed and sweeter. Both are amazing fruits.
I have some JT-02 ripening now that I’ll post pictures of this weekend
My 100-46 are delicious this year. The pulp is smooth and very sweet with no astringency. It was kind of mealy last year so I wrote it off, but it vastly improved this year. The tree overcropped and some of the limbs snapped.
Those look great. I let my second one wrinkle up a bit, like yours, and it was even better than the first one. Were yours seeded?
This is a great cultivar for people who want fruit quickly, but I think I’ll need to keep it smaller so it is easier to thin because it does seem like it wants to make a lot of fruit.
Walter, yes they were seeded. I’m not sure who the father is though. My Prok were all seeded too so maybe one of those threw some male flowers. There aren’t any wild persimmons nearby that I know of. 100-46 doesn’t seem too vigorous but that could be due to overcropping. Most of my kaki grow faster than it.
I grafted numerous persimmon on numerous native root stocks in 8a. Many of these were 2 or 3 inch caliper trees. This is year 2. No persimmons. Some of these have 12’ of growth on them and many branches. Question: Can I expect persimmon next year? I grafted Asian and American varieties
Here is a 100-43 tree with the same overbearing problem (not mine, Lehman’s). So people with the 100-40’s trees need to keep an eye out for this, it seems to be a pattern.
@ggrindle I’ve been getting some fruit on Americans and Hybrids on year 3 using existing rootstock like your doing. Prok was the only one so far to fruit on year 2 for me in 6a. Can’t say on Kaki’s.
This is good news! I didn’t realize that American varieties could have such branch bending loads of fruit given that the fruit are smaller. However, it seems my kaki can handle more weight on their branches without breaking.
Steven – Am I right inferring that your Chuchupaka (also Inchon, Sung Hui) ripens ahead of your Kassandra?
I’m trying to gauge likely performance here. My Kassandra’s look similar to yours – currently not quite ripe but far enough along that (a) they may finish on the tree, and/or (b) they may easily ripen indoors. The implication seems to be that Chuchupaka (etc) would ripen before early November here.
I had a couple which were ready to eat as well. I split one with my daughter (19 brix) and the other got eaten while I was out. I asked how it was and there were no complaints of astringency.
I did eat a counter ripened one maybe 1-1.5 weeks ago, so they’ve been close to ripe for a while. I just decided to start picking a lot today, when In noticed that a lot of leaves have dropped, even though we haven’t had a hard frost (tomatoes still growing).
Miss Kim is much better than H120, the only American persimmon I’ve tried. H120 is earlier, but even when it is jelly soft, I notice a bit of astringency or off-taste. Everyone thought it was pretty good today. I’d like it a lot better if I could remove the astringency and eat them crunchy though. Or at least firm. I’m going to put a bunch in a big with CO2 tonight and see how it goes.
Some animal was very hungry to eat so much of an astringent persimmon. I guess this is the problem with having so many fruit on the branch that it pulls it down until it is resting on a rock.
Chienting makes for a pretty tree. But, it didn’t really increase in production any this year. In fact, I think the 5-6 fruit it made was maybe half of last year’s.
Being ~20 miles north of Long Island sound and at 550’ above sea level I had a 26F freeze both Sat and Sunday mornings of last week, which fried all my fig and tomato leaves and caused almost complete drop of my American persimmons leaves. Curiously, my Asian persimmon leaves started coloring but no significant drop there…
In my experience here in 7B North Carolina, mature American persimmons usually start dropping leaves in September, long before we get our first frost or freeze. Mature Asian persimmons hold on to their leaves much longer. Sometimes we get an early freeze (like this year) and all the Asian persimmon leaves that hadn’t started senescing and changing color will die and drop. Immature trees of both types sometimes hold on to their leaves much longer and put out a new flush of growth late in the season, so it’s hard to generalize until the trees are at least several years old and beginning to fruit.
