I went to Walmart yesterday eve… checked on my roadside tree there…
Looks like it has 40-50 nice fruit set.
Hope I get to eat every one.
Persimmon/vanilla… might have to name it Persimonilla.
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One video said you need to put something on top of the persimmon to submerge them for 3 days and nights. Plus you have to change the water at least a couple of times to get rid of the tannins. One video a lady even take a needle to poke 4 needle holes around the persimmon to rid the tannins out faster. After 3 days she ate one still greenish yellow crunchy and still sweet. Please try to poke one fruit and see any different and keep us posted.
Thanks
Tony
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If you submerge them in warm water held between 105 and 140 F, they should be done in hours instead of days. If you go too hot for two long, the astringency will come back and the only thing you can do about it is pulp it and mix with xanthan gum or other polysaccharides.
In the videos where they’re changing out the water, it’s for safety, not for additional tannin removal. If you left the persimmons in there without changing the water, things could get pretty foul pretty quickly.
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if you pick these can I get some seed from you? I think growing out from seedlings might fare better for me here than bare root (I’ve lost 3 out of 4 bare root planted). I got a fairly protected spot with plenty sun they can go in once they’re ready
Vanillimmon
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Nice! I hope yours doesn’t live up to its reputation as a fruit dropper.
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It did last year! I have hundreds of opportunities to be disappointed this year…
The Pamjat Pasenkova it now lives beside put on a few flowers, we’ll see if a sport does any better.
Spent all weekend top working seedlings. Trying out some of England’s tips of grafting high to avoid deer damage and grafting hybrids low so, I can bury the trunk.
Noticed that I have what I think is Rosseyanka I budded 5 years ago. That seems odd because all my other Rosseyanka died over the winter. Maybe it’s an issue of wind chill or the wood not having hardened off before winter?
Most of my trees are recovering well from herbicide drift damage I posted about in 2-4D Drift, farmer doesn't care, ag officials protect him
But, I noticed my 3 Kasandra Trees are looking really bad. That was the only hybrid in the orchard that got hit. They are apparently especially sensitive to whatever 2-4-d cocktail they were hit with.
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Argh… Sorry to hear the damage is significant for your Kassandras. I wonder if most hybrids will be more sensitive to herbicide compared to pure DV?
It looks like the grass is much more brown around the base of your trees, do they get spray for weed prevention?
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I’m not happy about spraying herbicide but, the the voles and Japanese hops get out of control without it. I use glyphosate which neutralizes when it hits the soil and will not kill non target plants, if you don’t spray them (I scout for suckers first). Plus a pre-emergent (Prowl H2O) The drift damage was prior to treating around the trees.
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Video how to graft persimmons, i have used Hira Tanenashi scion to graft my small fruit persimmon.
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I figured that was the case, thanks for the information. I’m assuming you have way too many trees to keep up with mulching around all of them.
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Why do you think drift / damage from glyphosate sprayed at the base of the tree is a less likely explanation of the damage than drift from 2,4 D 100 yards away? You appear to have sprayed close enough to hit the trunk and possibly also exposed roots.
I’m asking this as an honest inquiry not an accusation. I have totally avoided using glyphosate anywhere near my fruits and berries, despite very tempting targets such as bindweed. Is there a consensus that we can use Roundup this close to our trees?
As a diagnostic help, when did you spray the glyphosate and when did the damage appear?
2-4-D is highly volatile with a well deserved reputation for drifting from the target area into adjacent spaces. Glyphosate generally stays where it is sprayed, but should be used with caution around small seedlings. It can affect growth of plants 10 feet from where sprayed and has done so on a few of my very young pecan trees. It does NOT cause defoliation! Glyphosate causes leaves to turn yellow and stay attached to the tree. It kills plants when sprayed direct but not by defoliation. Glyphosate can still cause defoliation, but it is long after the plant is severely impacted. 2-4-D - particularly the amine form - can and does cause near immediate defoliation.
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Your query was answered already, I think.
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I use glyphosate between infant trees in the nursery that are on 1 sqft spacing without issue. If I get a little overspray, I pull off those leave or rinse with water and it’s fine. It was originally used as a non-acid descaler. It binds with minerals in the soil and neutralizes. It does not even work well with hard water
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The soybean farmer said they sprayed 2-4-d. The grass is dead in their field, so it was more then just 2-4-d.
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Thanks for this tip Robert. I found I bought a huge amount of it just before I decided it was not worth it due to many birds getting snagged in it. So I could cut off some fresh rolls of it and I have protected maybe 30 trees with it on top of the normal (2" holes) deer fencing. So far they have not gotten through it… one round for Scott in the great deer battle. They are getting better and better about reaching higher and higher so the main thing I have to work on now is getting the protection high enough.
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@scottfsmith What I did is take stakes or bamboo and wedge in the fence holes to extend the cage higher. Then wrap that with the netting.
My problem is they are jumping up and grabbing branches ripping them down. Raccoon and possum are hanging out more and more now as well. Thinking about sections of stove pipe for them. Put in place as they begin to ripen and move to the next ones as needed.
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