It hasn’t leafed out yet so it’ll be fine. I’m down in the Houston area. I bought one last year and it never woke up, but always scratched green. I left it and its woken up this year. Just keep it well watered and it will be fine.
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@pedroeastexas … and when you do plant it in ground give it a generous circle of mulch. I start my new trees off with a nice layer of compost…then add a layer of composted wood chips… then a layer of wood chips on top.
That will really help with retaining moisture when it gets hot and dry.
Good luck !!!
TNHunter
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Paris TX here
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It hasn’t been good fo me or my trees, something if drilling holes at the base and I didn’t noticed before till this spring when two of them didn’t wake up. After further inspection I noticed something at the base and looks like worm sticking out but is the debris from the hole after whatever is worked its way in the trunk.
So far I lost three trees ( 3 varieties) to this matter. And found two more trees with holes as well but still alive at the moment.
Not sure what it is , I’m assuming is some kind of borers!
Is anyone have had this problem? If so what is the solution?
Do I need to spray my persimmons now too?
Here are some pics.
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Not sure why doesn’t let me upload the other photos!!!
Maxim No astringent Kaki proved to be early fruit. Too early for the Rossy male flower so no hybrid cross this year. I will have to freeze the pollens this year to cross it next Spring. Bummer!!
Tony
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Proof Meader does put out a few male flowers. This is why I get a seed now and then. No wild persimmon in my area.
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I grafted a bit before the weeklong cold snap. Starting to wakeup. I have 4 seedlings grafted but they get a bit of shade and have not started yet.
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Just curious, anyone have an extra DEC King Crimson scion? if so, please PM me (i can pay for faster shipping since the weather is warming up).
I have many scions as well I can trade as I’ll probably finish grafting many rootstocks in the next few days.
Should I pick off the flowers on my young Nikita’s Gift (on D. virg. x kaki), transplanted in ground last fall?
She was grown in a pot before I got her, possibly in Year 2 or 3. I gave her a heading cut to mid-thigh before transplant, and she put on some new growth to about 6 feet now. Has a fair amount of flowers, which I’m excited about, but I’ve heard that they frequently drop their fruit in the early years.
Maryland zone 7b, if that matters. It’s rare we get below 5 degrees.
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I would ignore the flowers. Nikita’s Gift is known to drop fruit as a young tree. If it sets and keeps any, then pick all but one or two off.
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they need to be fully ripe off the tree to eat so you probably have to find someone local unless it’s frozen
yes we have a lot of these . average around 1 case per 200 seedling per yr.
for now i just let it be.
persimmon will regrow from root.
they rarely infect graft one (they did but not as mouch as seedling
do;t know why
very annoying they are sudden death and has no symptm until too late.
Will NG eventually stop dropping fruit even if unpollinated by a male? Does male pollination speed up fruit retention in NG?
My NG is still young, so this is all anecdotal from various places I’ve read. Supposedly several Asians are prone to dropping fruit in the early years, especially if they are fertilized with Nitrogen. NG is very Asian in leaves, size, etc. Supposedly holding off on fertilizer has helped with fruit retention in some cases. I’m letting my young NG tree, which is flowering like crazy this year, try to hold as many fruit as it will to test this out.
My largest Mikkusu/JT-02 last year dropped 4 out 5 fruit late in the year, so NG isn’t alone in dropping fruit.
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Im grafting 65 different varieties (hybrids and American only) this week for my friend (and over the next week or 2).
In a week or 2 week ill know if i have any leftovers (im sure prob at least 20-40 varieties left i’d bet) if anyone needs alot of scion to graft (well most likely 1 short scion of each).
Note: it may be larger pieces left as ill usually use the top of each scion, but most of it either 1.25-1.5x pencil sized (good enough for a modified whipNtongue/cleft/‘Z’/‘7’ graft… been doing alot of those) or maybe nice pencil-sized ones too. The hybrids may dwindle down so might be mostly Americans.
Can anyone use that many if they have alot of American rootstocks?
if so, PM me and state how many rootstocks you need to graft.
@PharmerDrewee i know you are nearby in Philly, so thought i’d offer to you first.
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Yes, it will. I planted my NG tree in June of 2019, it started producing and dropping all fruit in either 2022 or 2021 for 2 or 3 years, and then held on to around a dozen fruits last year (though it likely would’ve held on to more if I watered it better during the drought). I’m not sure if pollination would speed up fruit retention. It would be worth trying out if you have male flowers on any of your trees. Mine were all seedless last year, though a nearby Yates had seeds in most of its fruits and a few Proks had some too. I’m guessing my Yates must have put out some male flowers.
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A lot of flowers and some nice fruit forming on my graft of Morris Burton #3.
It was grafted to an established Prok two years back. Does anyone know the story behind this variety, such as who developed it, any specific traits, etc. Someone told me it might be an early Donald Compton variety from seedlings of Morris Burton he grew out, but that was just one person’s suggestion. I think @tonyOmahaz5 had it at one point, possibly from Cliff?
New leaves are starting to show a lot of psyllid damage like most new persimmon growth right now, but hopefully you can see that it is a very attractive tree with new growth coming out red and elongated graceful leaves.
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Pretty sure you got that from me along with I-95a and several others. I’ll have to check to see who I got that from. They gave me a lot of odd persimmon varieties that I didn’t graft, but they knew all about them.
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