In my experience, the new NZ varieties have thicker skin and appear to have been bred for size and shippability. They are also a bit more cold sensitive.
The older varieties like Nikita, Apollo, Moore and Albert varieties are smaller and later but have thinner skin and less grit.
Is there much of a consensus yet on when and how to graft feijoas? I’ve seen lots of different opinions but it’s not clear to me what’s best.
There’s nothing special about Feijoa grafting. I’ve tried side grafting, cleft, whip and tongue.
Thin wood, thick wood, grafted in spring, summer, late fall. All with success.
Have done atleast 3 dozen successful grafts. All easy.
Dormant or growing season?
Doesn’t really matter. Feijoas are evergreen so they are always growing.
The only thing I’ve done is bringing in potted plants indoors when I winter grafted them. There needs to be some heat for the graft to callus. Around 60 degrees seems sufficient
Much appreciated! I’ve got some seedlings that I’m about ready to graft some Albert varieties to.
Yes, no need to be intimidated by feijoa. They are actually not that hard to graft.
I’ve had good results grafting feijoa with a hot callous pipe.
My spring ‘field’ grafts have been spotty. For example, last spring, I did a few grafts on 3-16 when our temperatures were still fairly cool and had had great results with new buds pushing in early May or so. The several grafts I did in mid April were all failures. They were all similar grafts with healthy scions.
Speaking of which… i should probably go water the ones i bought… i did a feijoa haul from Restoring Eden and they even gave me a few free ones cause I’ve bought so many
I heard they were not easy. Maybe different cultivars are easier than some?
I hypothesize that the challenge is because feijoa has a very thin bark as well as cambium layer. It can often be hit and miss as far as alignment goes. Callus tissue growth is also not very large unlike say apples. So you need very close cambium overlap.
Not much can be done there other than to have as good knife work as humanly possible. Keep the cuts smooth, no raggedness. Use a sharp knife.
Got a few more Kaiteri, kakariki, and marion. Really wish i would’ve grabbed the 3ft tall Kaiteri the other month. They gave me 2 free and a coupon for a 3rd freebie.
Love love love this fruit! Planning on planting 100’s at our property in Enumclaw, WA (8b). Little concerned about a freak single digit freeze taking them out whether it be this year or 10 years from now!
The risk of feijoa crop failure for large plantings due to previous season freeze in Enumclaw would be greater than for many other fruits more commonly grown in the area.
Research local weather history to see how often a +15F or colder low temperature happens; any colder than this can affect next season’s bloom. Also research how often November-December hard freezes happen; this can affect ripe or ripening fruit.
What will be the usage for hundreds of plants?
Troy @Restoringeden, welcome!
I am curious about how they do in colder climates outside Urban heat islands like Seattle etc. please keep us posted.
the original idea was for a hedge for our nursery. zoning requires a evergreen hedge. We have 1000’ + of required hedge. May just have to do arborvitae but that would be boring and not on brand with a fruit tree nursery. Also I don’t have enough room in our greenhouses for all our mother plants!
will keep you posted but i chickened out this year on planting them! It gave them some extra time in the GH to grow out 
A ha! You’re here!!! Welcome to the forum!
I had a small amount of Unique wood. Hopefully will have more in a year or two
