I don’t know early Golden. My experience with Beauty was not good. Beauty sets fruit prolifically. The fruit was quite large for a plum. You have to thin them hard. Otherwise, the skin that squish against one another often causes rotting.
Also, it often ripens around the time it rains. It turned into a bag of dituted sugar water, After 3 years, I gave up on this variety. I might still have one small graft.
my property is surrounded with chokecherry full of black knot. so far my romance, montmorency and lutowka rose cherries havent been affected. most are in their 6th year and only get sprayed just before full bloom. i did go and chop down every black knot i could find about 3 years ago but im sure there are others ive missed.
will see 
I think tart cherries are not affected, at least no much. I never saw a single one on any tart cherry in my yard. But I saw it on plums.
put in a black ice plum and contender peach last spring. ill let you know how they do.
My latest technique is the blowtorch method … it is a lot faster and easier. I just hit the knots until they start to sizzle. You need to be careful to only do one side of a limb and for not too long, otherwise you could girdle it. Also for smaller branches they need to be cut out.
Back on the original topic, the post @Stan mentioned is this one:
But if you go to the thread, the guy I was giving the advice to says he tried removing knots and there were too many so he gave up. He has a wild cherry grove nearby full of knot. So @galinas I’m not sure how you will fare with plums, it depends how bad the knot is there and how diligent you can be on zapping the knots
Ahh, I forgot about a blowtorch. Look like fun but I need to get a blowtorch first. Still, with my skills, I may cause more damage than intended.
A blowtorch is one of my must-haves, along with duct tape and super glue. Unfreeze things, start a stubborn fire, put a burnt finish on wood, etc. And, it’s fire and fire is fun!!
I will check the woods, how bad the black knot is around. I didn’t see any yet close by. We have a lot of pines. Somehow it feels as natural anti-fungal .
Galina - I’ve had plums for years (decades), mostly Japanese varieties, and tart cherries, and I’ve never had black knot in any of the orchard trees… My orchard is surrounded by fields and forest full of wild black cherry, and a few chokecherries, most of which have at least alittle black knot. We cut down nearby trees that are bad with it but I’m not sure it matters. My current plums are 3-7 yrs old. Maybe our late spring freezes that wipe out blossoms also takes care of black knot! Why-ever, I’m glad and I hope your experience is similar.
My bigger issue (other than freezes) has been pollination. I hope your two do pollinate each other. But you might consider grafting an American Plum onto a few branches for pollination (or a tree)? Or if the rootstock of your new trees is on AmeriPlum you’ll probably have plenty of suckers to let grow – I know I sure do. My harvests have been few and far between but they were so good I keep at it. Good luck! Sue
little off topic but does anyone know if beach plum and american plum pollinate each other? i have a spot i can put a beach plum near my black ice plum. i prefer doing that than grafting something on the black ice.
Here I think is the Black Knot capitol. I have quite a few plums, cherries and peaches. Peaches and monty cherries seem little affected. Most plums are though. The ones I have that are resistant to Black Knot are Burbank, Superior and Shiro! Some hybrid plums seem almost totally resistant. I have Toka, Waneta, and Alderman. Likely many of the hybrid selections from Fe d co are also resistant. These hybrid plums will not fruit unless the root stock suckers(american I think) are allowed to blossom. At least here.
Superior is the taste winner and Alderman is a sure winner also and both are large. I seem to walk by all the rest. Some of the losers in the Black Knot war get grafted over to peaches! These Hybrids seem to be tough as nails in 5.
Anyone try grafting susceptible varieties onto p americana for resistance?
Thanks for your input.
However, where is “here”?
You did not put in your profile where you live!
Eastern coastal Maine.
welcome fellow Maineiac. 
Shiro gets knots in my orchard … I would call it average. None of the Asians get it like the Euros though.
My Shiro got black knot, too. I figured the tree being in partial shade did not help the situation.
I still think Shiro is worth growing due to its precocity, productivity, cold hardiness of its flower buds, etc.
Black Ice’s flower buds are not as cold hardy compared to Shiro’s.
It a surprise to me also that Shiro is known as medium in resistance to BK. However here it is better than that. It only gets a few small knots per year. Burbank also gets only a few. Some of these trees are 20-30 years old and very productive. Some failures due to BK, for the Europeans include Stanly and now Green Gage which has an 8 inch trunk! Just covered in knots. Seems that the older they get the more BK susceptible they become. Wondering now if americana or peach rootstock might impart a little resistance to some Euros.
Agree Scott that the general consensus is that Asians get BK less than Euros but I have or had Beauty, Methley, Satsuma, Santa Rosa, Nadia and they are long gone.
Observations and experiences here may be a lot different in less harsh climates.
Steveb4,
Up that way moose hunting and at other times. Nice country. Any luck on peaches up there. Only able to get about 5-6 years our of them here but enough to get some nice crops. I would not trade them for lobster!
i put in a contender last spring. it put on about 16 of new growth. buried it with the snowblower. its been a fairly mid winter so far so should be ok as long as we dont have a repeat of the -40 we had last winter. my brothers a Maine guide in Soldier pond (z3). has 100% success rate on moose going back to the early 80’s. check out his page on facebook under Dean’s Den. i got a 52in. on the wall back in 05’. got a 44in. in 21’.