Here are a couple of the fruits that I got in early November.
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I’m northern Utah zone 6b/7a depending on the year. I have over 10 varieties of cold hardy pomegranate trees growing in the ground. All have survived without die-back. I protect for the first 3 years with caged straw then no protection. Any that have been in the ground for 3 years are blooming and producing fruit. Salavatski, Suhr Anor, Kazake, have all ripened to suffienct sweetness. Parfianka did not develop full flavor before the tree went dormant. Others still to come. Make sure they are getting good sunlight and that you fertilize heavily with phosphate in the early springtime. You should be seeing fruit now.
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does the guy speak english? can you dm me the name or group?
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Those would be some amazingly hardy plants, the claims are outrageous but I hope they are true. @RedSun says he has the “hardy” varieties listed, curious as to whether he ever planted them in the ground. Any success/promising results? Any die-back?
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I found a local grower selling both Uzbek and Bulgaria 3. I really can’t find much info on Bulgaria 3 in particular- do you have any info? I’m looking for a good candidate to grow in a pot on a super sunny deck in zone 7b, Philly
- ‘Uzbek’ Uzbek (pomegranate) - Bountiful Figs
- 'Bulgaria super Hardy “Bulgarian 3” (Bulgaria var3). Hardy, up to -21 Celsius ‘-5.8 degree Fahrenheit’.
Should be able to survive -24 Celsius ‘-11.2 degrees Fahrenheit’.
Pomegranate; Fruit variety; sour (for kitchen and medicinal use)
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I’ve got a “Russian Red Pomegranate” (presumably Salavatski?) supposedly hardy to zone 6. I’m on the 6b/7a border, and I’ve got a nice sheltered/protected spot on the southeast side of the house, where my persimmons and pawpaws have been growing well. The problem is that it probably only gets 4-5 hours of sunlight a day. Is that enough? My only other alternative would be to container it to a sunnier spot, but then I assume I’d need to take the container inside in winter, and I am extremely space limited inside.
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In your climate the inside of a pot would easily turn to ice, and so yes if you kept it in a pot it would need to be put indoors during the winter. Could you install a greenhouse?
Experts say that a pomegranate should have “at least six hours of direct sunlight a day in order to ensure good fruit color and productivity.” That is important because when a pomegranate bush needs the most sunlight is when the fruit is forming, and is ripening, which is when there is a limited amount of sun compared to when the daylight is at it’s longest.
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No, not really an option at my condo with about a 15x30 ft shared backyard. My neighbors like the small N of fruit trees I’ve planted. I’ll inspect, again, if I have any sunnier spots, or I’ll risk it on the side, and less than ideal productivity and fruit color to enable it.
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I think I’ve identified a possible location that gets full sun and is somewhat sheltered, toward the southeastern side of the house enclosed within a broader fence. I suspect it was a seedling last year (quite small); my current plan is to put it in a 5g-10g pot this summer, and then try to plant it in-ground either this fall or next spring, and see how it does in ground in that zone and site.
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I’ve got 2 small Salavatskis, 2 Afganskis, and 1 Sirenevyi in pots. If yours ever croaks I can hook you up with a cutting to root down the road.
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Next spring is the best, the more adapted the roots are come winter, the better off the pomegranate bush is.
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How will keeping them in a pot help with root adaptation? Do you just mean more developed and then have all of next summer to grow?
I mean from spring to winter the roots will develop in the ground, VS Autumn to Winter almost no time for the roots to develop in the ground before winter. The roots grow much much faster in the ground than they do in a pot.
Got it! Yes, that makes sense to me. It’s still small right now, so my instinct is to keep it in a pot this summer, though I will think about that in terms of whether it makes sense to accelerate it this summer (and because I have so little space indoors for potted plants, as previously stated).
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This was helpful to read. I won’t train it to a single trunk after this. Pomegranate Production | CAES Field Report
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The more you try to keep a pomegranate one trunk, the more the pomegranate bush tries to turn it’s self back in to a bush, it’s a loosing battle. In some dryer climates where they grow much slower that can be managed, yet in a lot of climates it’s just impossible. Also I believe that if you were to try to keep any pomegranate bush just one trunk, eventually you’d find lots of new clones of it coming up from the literal roots. That is what can happen when an old enough pomegranate bush is stressed out enough. It’s a way that a lot of pomegranate bushes survive in harsh conditions. Ours do that.
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