I’d like to add to that question. Which varieties have experienced the least amount of rot.
1 Like
I don’t have much problem getting them to ripen OK, but Nikitski Rianni and Granada are two which ripen earlier. I grow the former but the latter is not very hardy so I don’t have it (well I had it but it died). In a pot it would be a good one for the mid-Atlantic.
I don’t have enough experience to notice much difference on the rot … they all seem to rot similarly to me so far.
3 Likes
Based upon my notes, it appears that the earliest cold hardy ones are the following. They are all about the same cold hardiness as the ‘Nikitski Ranni’ that was already suggested to you, yet they are even earlier at producing, yet not by much.
‘August Goradon Shirin’ - Cold hardy down to about 3.2 degrees Fahrenheit
‘Surh-Anor’ - Cold hardy down to about 5 degrees Fahrenheit Surh-Anor (pomegranate) / Bountiful post area / Bountiful Figs
‘Sumbar’ - Cold hardy down to about 5 degrees Fahrenheit
‘Sumbarski’ - Cold hardy down to about 5 degrees Fahrenheit Sumbarskii (pomegranate) / Bountiful post area / Bountiful Figs
6 Likes
Piling onto this thread.
I’m going to be planting Salavatski, AC Sweet, and Favorite at my house this year. I’m putting them at a SW corner of my house that has been swallowed by a big Rhododendron. Things I can eat are better than a Rhody!
I also plan to sneak a few in at work (horticulturist at a golf course) on a sheltered west facing wall. Macedonian and Turkish Mountain, plus whatever I have success rooting (Grenada and Afghani).
Both spots are 6b, I would consider them 7a though.
1 Like
Do you know anything about ‘Turkish Mountain’? I have not seen anything about it before.
1 Like
No clue, originally from Bass. An acquaintance got it from Bass 4 or 5 years ago. He has sorely neglected it so i will try to bring it back.
2 Likes
I picked up plugs of Surh-Anor, Kaim-Anor, and Bala Miursal from Fruitwood Nursery this year. We’ll see how they do in pots for Z6. 5 F has been an uncommon temperature at my place, maybe one month a year on average I would have to worry about them being outside.
I have a feeling ill dread bringing them inside each year compared to the tameness of the potted figs haha
3 Likes
I am going to try a couple of Poms this year. I expect I am probably looking at containers to protect from the worst of the winters, but there are a couple of spots I may be able to plant them despite my offical 6B zoning.
As I type, I am making pomegranate molassas from the store-bought juice. I use it mostly as a topping for ice-cream and in a dip called muhammara. I like the stuff I make from juice, but the stuff you make from fresh fruit is supposedly ten times better. Thus, I’m going to see if I can grow them. If I cannot make it work, well then, happy birthday mom and brother, here’s your new trees. I might be planning my visits for when I can steal the fruit back.
2 Likes
Haha, we’re like brilliant minds that think alike here. I got the Suhr-Anor and a couple others from the same place. They are happily pushing leaves in my grow room the last month or more, so I know I’ll have at least one year out of them. I got three different plugs and two different cuttings. One of the five may not take, but the rest are happy.
2 Likes
I’ll have to try this for this year. I’m also going to try to make a point of spraying harder for fungus.
1 Like
Just to clarify - are the fruits themselves the only thing you’ve found you need to spray? No dormant oil for pests or anything like that? Just trying to plant a few years ahead 
2 Likes
What do you mean by tameness?
Pomegranates they gain cold hardiness with size and age of tree, and so I would not plant them until season two since you got them, maybe season three, depending on how cold that year is…
1 Like
I was referring to the mention of thorns on the pomegranates, and the fact that I can chop the figs smaller each year and they’ll be easy to move. I’m not sure if pomegranates respond well to being hacked back like figs.
1 Like
I myself don’t mind their thorns, the thorns turn in to actual branches, eventually loosing their sharpness as they turn in to branches, and are not a big problem much of the year, thorns are not much of a problem when the plants are dormant, pomegranate bushes grow way slower in pots/grow bags than in the ground, so I have never thought about pruning them while they are in pots/grow bags. Some cultivators of pomegranates I’d not go near certain times of the year without rose pruning gloves, their thorns are so sharp, scratches you through clothes/jackets. Others way less sharp, yet still best to wear gloves.
2 Likes
Ditto on what Scott said . . . Granada (especially) and Nikitski seem to ripen first. Hotuni Zigar in a close third.
2 Likes
Favorite (Lyubimi? - or something like that) was a fungal magnet. It went bye bye after the first season. It may do better for you . . . but it was a problem here.
2 Likes
I’m planting it almost under the eaves of my house. I had a peach nearby that never got peach leaf curl. Stays pretty dry there, fingers crossed!
3 Likes
I live in zone 8b. Had a Nana Dwarf in a pot, a Wonderful, and a Parfianka. We had two snows this winter and it has been nothing but cold and wet this spring. Planted them all in pots that I left out on my deck close to the house. Potting soil is a lot of sand, some compost, and good soil. All of them lost their leaves and have yet to show any signs of budding. Worried that they are all dead or the cold/wet spring has kept them dormant? Advice and ways to revive them or see if there is hope?
1 Like
They are slow this year here, it’s the cool weather. In 8b they should be fine unless they came out of dormancy and were hit by frost, or unless they were not well rooted before the freezing temperatures hit, or unless it went down colder than 8b temperatures.
1 Like
My pomegranates in 7A are leafing out already so it seems like they should already be leafing out in 8B. I agree with @alanmercieca that it sounds like they might have gotten hit by a frost just as they were starting to expand the buds. I would scrape off a bit of bark and check for green underneath to see if the wood is still alive. If only the buds are dead the bark still could be green, and in that case the plant will eventually sprout from the roots again. If the wood is not green the whole plant may be dead. I’m not sure how tolerant pomegranate roots are of cold, but in the ground the roots will be warmer than in a pot and if they are dead it could be because the roots got too cold.
2 Likes