There are a few if us in eastern MA. I am in central MA.
Like lordkiwi said.
you can make a small single stemmed blueberry. By grafting onto sparkelberry.
The industy is trialing this out. For better mechanical harvesting. (less berry’s loss between the multiple stems)
the “problem” with a lot of berry bushes though is that the older wood deteriotes quickly, it gets sick, or just becomes unproductive. So you will have to renew your framework. Or just accept the shorter life-cycle.
you can probably get a decent amount of years out of a single stem pruned jostaberry. You will have to stake it for life though.
Josta and Ribes aureum / Ribes odoratum. Are used to make single stem courrant / goosberry bushes/tree’s. They call these “standard” courrants
I just got a bare root Juliet cherry. I’m hoping to plant it out tomorrow, but the leaf buds are starting to expand and we have a 22 degree night forecast for next week. Is that too low, or am I better off heeling in the bush in a pot until the weather settles a bit more? Not knowing how quickly these cherries leaf out, I’d give it 50-50 odds as to them opening before that cold night.
i dont remember the exact temps the U of SK cherries buds can handle but seeing its a z2 hardy plant, i wouldnt worry about temps like that. same with honeyberries.
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@oscar While were on the subject of treeifying bushes you have to take a look at what @Viktor does to his honeyberry bushes
What’s the verdict on Honeyberries…are they tasty? - General Fruit Growing - Growing Fruit
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If your Juliet came from a warmer zone than your own I would err on the side of caution. It is almost impossible to kill honeyberries with cold temperatures. The romance cherries are tough, but not to the same degree.
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It was shipped from southern Michigan, which is nearly identical climate wise to my location. Who knows if that’s actually where they grew and dug it. 
I’ll probably go ahead and plant it. I can always wrap it in a few layers of Agribon if it’s looking dicey.
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Oof. Now the forecast is for 20. I’m annoyed that I’m getting bare root plants that are breaking dormancy. Last year everything was way slowed down, so that made sense. This plant was only 2 days in transit, so I’m feeling less forgiving.
almost eveywhere in the country is warmer than here so i often get trees thats starting to leaf out, or they send it to me 2 months before i can plant it out. i have a sweet cherry that i put in a 5gal. bucket and buried in a snowbank right now, waiting for the ground to thaw so i can plant it. got it late feb.
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My area is seeing typical fluctuating temperatures ranging from 40 - high 60s during the day, with a random low 30s mixed in, and 40s to below freezing at night. Is it safe to plant newly received bare root fruit trees now,?
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That sounds pretty safe to me!
Does anyone know if Early Blush Apricot is self fruitful?Mine is forming flowers,which haven’t opened yet,while most of the other varieties are getting past bloom.
go for it 
If the trunk is painted, will notching still work to promote branch growth?
If the tree was painted after being notched, will the notch still branch growth?
The paint is not going to reconnect the cambian layer so the notching will still be effective. The question of course is if trunk painted or not has any inactive buds or not.
The second questions is did you remove all of the apex buds eg, the very end of each branch especial the central leader
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Thanks
I made a notch above inactive buds on the trunk. I did not remove any buds or prune the ends off of the branches.
Can I graft don-dormant scion to the trunk of a peach tree during spring / summer?
I want to establish a new scaffold. Once established, I plan to cut down everything above.
If successful, can I expect fruit on the new growth next season?
you can summer chip or T-bud. You do this with buds from the base of this years growth end of summer.
You cut the leaf of the bud, but leave the leaf stalk. (if the leaf stalk falls of ~2 weeks after grafting you know the graft took. (the hormones from the rootstock/tree make the bud eject the leaf stalk)
Grafting with an already cut scion that you have now, thats leafing out. is gonna be hard. Your best bet would be to find the most dormant bud on your scion and chip that on your rootstock thats leafing out the most.
unfortunatly peaches usualy have little or bad dormant buds.
If you have a apple scion thats leafing out. you can brake the bud off, but still chip bud the “leftover bud”.
If you let this heal and then cut the stock beginning of summer (~3-4 weeks later)
you have a good chance that a latent bud on your chip bud will start to grow.
you might have to brake off a few latent buds on your rootstock when forcing the latent chip bud.
I am in the same boat as you having the same crazy dreams. My Peach and Plums are in the same position with either being lopsided or having 3ft of blind wood with no buds.
Since there multi graft I cant just take the top off with out loosing the most productive part of the tree and most or all of that cultivar is above the 3ft marks.
University of Texas does what they call Green Wood Grafting. I found a few other references, maybe it has a different more common name? Its basicly T-Bud with more material from an actively growing branch.
Green Wood Grafting - Earth-Kind® Landscaping Earth-Kind® Landscaping (tamu.edu)
I took a number of cuttings last month various stages of bud break and fridge them. When it warms up a bit I will be trying a few bark grafts. They wont be pretty but what do I have to loose.