Questions not deserving of a whole thread


#1

I don’t know about the rest of you, but I often have a quick question that someone here can almost certainly answer in full with a single reply, or for other reasons just doesn’t seem worthy of creating a full thread of its own and it doesn’t fit into anything else. “What’s Happening today” sort of does this but lots of things don’t really fit that… I also feel bad if I have more than one or two active threads on the main page, especially if they are somewhat trivial questions or based on a topic not of interest to most growers. So, thought I’d try this thread: A place where you can just randomly ask whatever question you have at any time. If it works great, if not it will disappear and no harm done. I’ll start with the 2 questions I had in mine when I created this thread:

  1. Do Plum Curculio and Oriental Fruit Moths only feed at night? I’ve almost never seen one but those crescent shaped scars have already been show.

  2. Once the pest has deposited its egg, it there anything that can be done to prevent it from becoming a larvae and burrowing and causing problems. My guy says no since spray is outside fruit and skin and egg is deposited inside and the little flap of the fruit skin is laid back down over the deposit hole. But I have read that my bug spray-Imidan 70 WP - may be one of the few that can be retroactive (slightly). Just wondering if there is any truth to that.


Nursery inventory
#2

This a great idea. I was just thinking the same earlier today when I posted my almost dead rootstocks in the grafting thread. I figured since it’s related I’d post there instead of creating a thread for it. This is perfect! I have a feeling this thread will live on.
Just wanted to mention that, can’t answer your questions though. Maybe in 4-5 years :smile:


#3

So glad you said that…I really thought that I couldn’t be the only one who has simple little questions from time to time and hate to create a whole thread or force it into some topic it doesn’t quite fit. So I really hope you and others will come here when you need a quick answer or advice.


#4

From @olpea on GW: http://forums.gardenweb.com/discussions/1476111/plum-curculio-kickback-activity-of-insecticides

In their words, " If plum curculio infestation occurs and a rescue treatment is needed, organophosphates and neonicotinoids can provide curative action up to two weeks after plum curculio infestation, although in some cases dead cadavers can still be found in fruit."


#5

I always feel a little bad when a question I ask has previously been answered, but thanks very much for pointing that out. Now for the dumbest question of all: is imidan 70 a neonicotinoid or organophosphate? Thanks!


#6

Its not a neonic…

I’ve seen active PC during the day, but i think they do most of their damage at night.


#7

OP. Is that what you want?


#8

Imidan (phosmet) is an organophosphate.

I don’t think there is reason to feel bad about asking a question that has already been answered. Oh, and I don’t mean to make it seem like “this already has been answered, duh” by posting the previous comment and link. Sorry if it came across that way. A thread like this is a perfect place for those types of questions. Here especially, I just found the information. I did not know it before searching for it. But I thought it was interesting enough to look up, so I felt it was best to provide the source.


#9

I wish this forum possessed a better search engine for retrieving relevant threads to a question, but only for the convenience of the asker. Sometimes a question comes up that I’ve answered multiple times and I’m just not inspired to type another one out but I’d never resent the person asking.

Incidentally, besides Imidan, only certain neonics are said to have kickback and I don’t think anything ever had two weeks worth, even DDT (please correct me if I’m wrong). If there was, orchardists could control PC strictly by monitoring, and waiting almost two weeks to make a single application.


#10

I have 2 peach trees that are extremely poorly shaped and I am wondering if they are destined to evenually be a problem or if there is anything I can do at this point.

The first one is a Snow Queen nectarine. It was planted back before I knew anything at all about fruit trees (yes, I once knew less than I know now!). It only had a single limb on it and I just planted it that way and hoped for the best. Of course I should have cut it off at 30 inches and it probably would have produced some nice new scaffolds. Instead, it has only developed on that one limb, so it has this tall trunk and then makes an almost 90 degree turn outward. So as you can tell by the photo, it wants to lean. The little post is temporary- I’ll put a better one in. But I’m wondering if it will always need a post or will even spread back toward the trunk. I’ve tried to encourage that by never pruning limbs growing toward trunk and always pruning things out on the end. Its a 4 year old tree and I feel sure that if I topped it now it would just die…there is no sign of any kind of nodes or buds on the trunk that could ever produce now growth.

The second photo is much harder to decipher, but is really almost exactly the same situation. Its hard to tell because I’ve left a big, dead portion of the trunk above where the tree takes the 90% turn. Its the part with the tag on it. disregard it because its dead from the scaffold on up. This tree is more hopefull because it already has some limbs closer to the trunk which might eventually be spread- with some help- to grow across the trunk and balance it out, but I’m not sure.

Anyway, point is that I have 2 lop-sided trees and wondered if anyone has any suggestions to repair them. THanks.


#11

I have one like your first picture and was thinking about bud grafting on the side that didn’t have limbs.


#12

Changing to another question on the non deserving thread :slight_smile: What is the thought of cutting back a taproot on a persimmon seedling? Can cutting back the root be ok to a certain point or is it not recommended to cut at all?


#13

My 4x1 cherry was really crooked like that and last year I chopped the heavy branch off. I cleft grafted the trunk where I cut the large branch off and the two clefts grew like gangbusters.


#14

I had a tree that looked like your first tree. 2 years ago I took out the leder and started working it into a vase shape tree. Below is how it looks today. It is lopsided and I grafted a Methley scion to the other side. Since Methley seems to be a fast grower hopefully it will even out the tree. Not sure if a drastic prune is the way to go. But that’s what I did. It seems to be working. It put out a lot of side shoots. You will loose fruit for few years though since it takes couple of years to get the tree into the shape you want.


#15

I know its hard to tell, but my 2ed tree is almost identical to my first one except that it is much smaller and younger. But it just has a trunk and then all the growth is at the end of one limb. I like both of your suggestions. @Susu , when you say you grafted onto the other side, did you do a bud graft like @BobC suggested above? That seems like the most practical solution since it could get one or more scaffods going on the other side. Problem is that I am about 0 for 10 on bud grafts! haha. But I’ve read and watched a lot of videos this year so hopefully I’m improving.

kevin


#16

No it wasn’t a bud graft. It was a cleft. I just did it this year.when I chopped of the center of the tree two years ago it promoted side shoots. I grafted on to one of the side shoots this year. That’s why I said it might take time to get the shape you want. I guess even without grafting that shoot would’ve grown to fill the empty side of the tree. But I figured since Methley supposed to be a fast grower it’ll happen faster.


#17

I’m using Bonide liquid copper against Bacterial Spot and Peach Curl. The bottle says it can be sprayed up to 6 times during the growing season. It lists peach as one of the things you can spray during growing season. I’ve read many times on this site that copper can cause leaf burn on peach if used while leaves are out. Is this type of copper an exception? This is copper octonate (soap?) I want to make sure I don’t cause damage to the tree by actually following the directions on the bottle. Maybe I don’t need another application during the growing season since I sprayed copper when the tree was dormant? I’d hate to get it again this year though. Between squirrels and BS I didn’t get even one ripe peach last year, though the tree was loaded with peaches in spring.


#18

I look forward to the answers you get on this. I think the copper that many of use use is copper sulfate, but I have no idea what the difference is other than the latter is apparently “stronger” if that is the right word. I failed to dormant spray some of my peach trees this year and I have a lot of peach leaf curl. I’m wondering of your product (copper octonate/copper soap) would help any now that my trees have leafed out. Either way, I’m sure someone will come along and educate us on the differences in copper formulations and whether the octonate really can be sprayed safely onto leaves.


#19

Search for a thread called Generic Copper Spray.

The thread has a lot of great info about copper from many knowledgeable posters.


#20

Speaking of spraying, I want to spray Serenade and Spinosad (on my tomatoes, actually, but I know a lot of people on here have a lot of experience spraying). Anyway, is it ok to mix these two so I only have to do one spray? Are there some you shouldn’t mix? Thank you.