Questions not deserving of a whole thread

I did that. Thank you for your advice. It does not seem to be a borer.

I thought the same TurkeyCreek, How did my 2nd year planted Williams Pride on G.41, from Cummins that has never bloomed get fire blight? Doesn’t fire blight spread through the blooms? I had a Braeburn with fire blight on MM106 but it bloomed.

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My observations about FB is that I have seen it the most in association with bloom time. I have also seen heavy infestations under the bloom area and often spread out a few feet wide when the original infested bloom was not pruned out. Then I have seen areas of FB in random areas that I cant really define any correlation (less of this type).

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Burrowing and chewing insects such as cicada can spread it easily when not in bloom. They attach new growth primarily. Old trees won get it in those situations and new trees will.

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That used to be the understanding, but FB often infects growing 1-year shoots without starting in the blooms- it is called shoot-blight. I get it frequently but I guess it is less devastating than FB that starts in spring from infected flowers. Usually removing infected shoots is the end of the problem with free standing type rootstocks (M7 and up).

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Here is an example of late season shoot blight brought on by cicada Late season Fireblight - #5 by clarkinks

Any reason why some of our apple trees are putting on new growth in early October? It has already snowed once here. I haven’t done any trimming and pretty much have left the trees alone the last few months.

They did this last year as well without any I’ll effects on the next growing season. I was just curious though why they would do this when they will drop their leaves soon anyway.

I had a cherry and pear bloom a few weeks ago and put out new growth - both were stressed badly as they were planted in the middle of a drought. If a tree feels threatened it will put out growth.

The only stress the trees were under was the cold…a few nights down to 26. They did seem affected by it. Now it’s warm again so maybe that’s their way of recovering.

Reading more on grapes it looks like it looks like the PH level is recommended to be between 5.5 to 6.5 for muscadines and 6.0 to 6.5 for others. Looking through the forum I found plenty of topics on PH and Blueberries but none on PH and grapes and using sulfur (to lower the ph) for grapes. What can I expect with grapes if my PH is high 6.7 - 7.2 plus, depending on where I test in my yard?. Lower yields, bad tasting grapes, dead plants, the great grape apocalypse? This the only thing I can find locally to reduce PH -

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Espoma-6-lb-Soil-Acidifier-100508616/203192757

Apples do tend to get a late growth surge on tips, especially if leaf hoppers were holding growth in check. These type surges can happen to other species for at least another reason, I’ve seen it after long summer drought broken by rain in late August with Japanese plums. The J. plum trees didn’t seem to suffer from the late growth but the shoots themselves were winter killed. Never had late shoot growth of apples even cause that, but unusual late growth and sudden emergence of extreme cold might theoretically pose a problem. I wouldn’t worry about it though, the growth you are talking about is probably normal, especially if you are in a part of the country where the growing season seems to keep getting longer as it does here in the northeast. We just had our first frost which use to normally come in late Sept.

@foothillsgrower5a did you water your trees during our dry spells this year? I had a couple of 3-5 week spells with little or no precip. If you got the same then the recent rain/snow we got might have given them a chance to grow after being in drought stress.

I generally water my trees weekly whenever it isn’t raining during the growing season. And have not seen much if any regrowth lately.

Does any body know what kind of insect would eat the edges of peach leaves but not the center?
I’ve noticed leaf damage to the edges.

Can you post pic?

Insects like leave cutter bees leave distinct marks.

Here is a picture.they don’t seem to damage the center of the leaves. Just the edges.

It could be lots of things. Around here black vine weevils do that type of damage.

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I don’t know. Like @fruitnut said, it could be one of many insects. I personally do not worry about these things if they don’t defoliate a whole tree.

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Thank you both for replying. I read up on weevils and I think it matches the damage on the leaves. It sounds like their larva could do some serious damage to the roots.

We planted two sets of 25 each of Earliglow and Jewel strawberries back in June. After I weeded them a couple months ago, they seem to found a new burst of growth. A few of the EG have sent out some runners, while Jewel haven’t. But those have sent out long stems with big leaves on them.

A few questions. I’ve noticed that since we’ve had a couple of freezes, that the plants’ leaves are still green, and they even look like they’re still growing. Is this to be expected all winter, that is, will the leaves stay green, and will they keep growing?

Also, will these plants eventually need to be covered, like when the temps drop down into the twenties or below? I have some extra straw if need be. What happens if they aren’t covered?

And, I’ve read that strawbs do produce better if they are fertilized in the late summer/early fall. Would it be too late to fert them now, would this cause them to not to go into dormancy?

Thanks for the replies.

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Straw helps. Put it on after the ground freezes. The leaves will probably still look green at that time. They might heave if uncovered, or even freeze out. I had that happen to first-year plants when the wind blew the straw off. Only the ones at the edge where the straw caught on surrounding weeds survived. They were also transplanted late in the year when we moved, so were probably more vulnerable. New leaves will grow in spring. Keep the straw nearby so you can cover them again if frost is predicted while they are blossoming. How you keep them watered and weeded in late summer makes a big difference the following spring. Where we are, fertilizing now would be okay, but not sure where you are further south. I would think your season would be about over, too.

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