Selecting some branches for scaffolds,is probably what I’d choose.
Another option,is to let the tree grow this year and do it when dormant.Summer pruning can be done,to shorten,if wanted.
Remember also, this one needs a pollenator,like a Japanese Plum.
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I would only snip the very top most off about 4 leaves down. This will cut off the hormones from the central leader for more branching. Anything more is just wasting all of the energy used this season.
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Thank you, guys. I do have a Toka and a Santa Rosa plum, nearby. Also a pluot.
So - Central Leader is the way to go, then? After I asked the initial question I thought that if I used open center / vase, it might end up too wide and overhang my driveway. (There is a driveway behind me, as I took the picture.) So I will take your advice. Choose my scaffolds and snip the rest - plus the very top.
If you want to remove the central leader do so while the tree is dormant. Then send us scion wood. Cutting the tip off the terminal bud will shift its apical dominance off without wasting the energy used to grow that leader and the leaves are already sending energy to the roots. If the tree try’s to regrow a new apex just snip it again.
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OK, @lordkiwi . . . I will try to remember that you asked me for scions. Remind me next spring - I’ll be happy to send some.
An open center,vase shape,is what I do, with stone fruit.In your humid climate, that might be a thing to consider,in relationship to fungal disease, which central leader, might promote more.
Pruning can also be done to keep the width in check,but maybe not exactly like a central leader.
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I know this is 2 weeks late so whatever damage might have happened has happened, but I still wanted to let you know that while I may not have ever used 6 times the recommended amount, I’ve used close to that much extra. The only problem I’ve had with using too much is that it clogs the sprayer and makes application very hard at the time and if left alone will set up in nozel and hose and tank and make a sticky mess and/or clogs. But honestly it doesn’t seem to hurt the trees.
How did it work out for you?
how big a hole (diameter) should I leave in a sheet mulched bed for primocane raspberries? I’m getting a few 2 inch pots in the mail but I expect over the years they will need a wider space free of cardboard to successfully grow new canes.
there might be some variety difference. But primocanes for me make new shoots everywhere. Some 3-4 foot away even.
So i’d leave the hole where you want them to be. Id probably keep the hole ~8" wide in a line. If you want to grow a “wall” of rasphberry’s.
you could even keep the hole 4" wide. But a few shoots might pop up under your mulch. Less weeding though.
SPINOSAD Life Span. It’s been in the bottle my garage for at least a year. still effective?
Thanks!
BigMike, that cardboard will rot away by the end of one season, so sprouts will easily grow through it in a season or two. Raspberry sprouts will also pop through mulch easily.
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The plums, peaches, and apples didn’t seem to care at all. The Asian pear leaves got a little blotchy, but they seem ok if a little discolored. None of the small fruits were damaged.
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I was being lazy and just tipped the jug instead of measuring - and my plums all got a dark spot on the bottom where the spray had collected as it dripped off the fruit. Many many many dark ‘bottoms’. That’s ok - we had to thin thin thin and then thin some more. But, now I get out my teaspoon measuring spoon.
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How hot/cold in your garage?
If you let it get frozen or very hot, such extreme weather would likely shorten its shelf life and its efficacy.
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I grow exclusively in growbags and the year I tried Peas in the bags I plan to use for cucumbers later in the year (my first attempt at succession planting). Problem is, I didn’t properly soak the peas so germination took forever and they still aren’t producing. I would normally direct sow my cucumbers now but the pea plants are only a few feet tall and without peas. my question is can I leave the pea plants growing in hopes that they produce and direct seed my cucumbers in the growbags or do I need to kill and remove the peas prior to direct seeding the cucumbers? I’m in zone 7b and use an automated drip system for watering so I think both plants should get enough water/nutrients in the same grow bag.
thanks, probably not frozen or super hot.
My garage is not insulated so if I leave a bottle of water in my garage on a cold winter night, it will freeze. I don’t keep spraying chemicals in my garage.
maybe my basement would be better
Rojo Brillante persimmon as i understand, it should be astringent and doesn’t ripen well on the tree you would need to ripen it some other method.
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I have some plum trees with a ton of Plums on them right. Unfortunately they also have a ton of suckers in them. Is it OK to trim all the suckers off while bearing fruit?