Questions not deserving of a whole thread


#301

Does any body know what kind of insect would eat the edges of peach leaves but not the center?
I’ve noticed leaf damage to the edges.


#302

Can you post pic?

Insects like leave cutter bees leave distinct marks.


#303

Here is a picture.they don’t seem to damage the center of the leaves. Just the edges.


#304

It could be lots of things. Around here black vine weevils do that type of damage.


#305

I don’t know. Like @fruitnut said, it could be one of many insects. I personally do not worry about these things if they don’t defoliate a whole tree.


#306

Thank you both for replying. I read up on weevils and I think it matches the damage on the leaves. It sounds like their larva could do some serious damage to the roots.


#307

We planted two sets of 25 each of Earliglow and Jewel strawberries back in June. After I weeded them a couple months ago, they seem to found a new burst of growth. A few of the EG have sent out some runners, while Jewel haven’t. But those have sent out long stems with big leaves on them.

A few questions. I’ve noticed that since we’ve had a couple of freezes, that the plants’ leaves are still green, and they even look like they’re still growing. Is this to be expected all winter, that is, will the leaves stay green, and will they keep growing?

Also, will these plants eventually need to be covered, like when the temps drop down into the twenties or below? I have some extra straw if need be. What happens if they aren’t covered?

And, I’ve read that strawbs do produce better if they are fertilized in the late summer/early fall. Would it be too late to fert them now, would this cause them to not to go into dormancy?

Thanks for the replies.


#308

Straw helps. Put it on after the ground freezes. The leaves will probably still look green at that time. They might heave if uncovered, or even freeze out. I had that happen to first-year plants when the wind blew the straw off. Only the ones at the edge where the straw caught on surrounding weeds survived. They were also transplanted late in the year when we moved, so were probably more vulnerable. New leaves will grow in spring. Keep the straw nearby so you can cover them again if frost is predicted while they are blossoming. How you keep them watered and weeded in late summer makes a big difference the following spring. Where we are, fertilizing now would be okay, but not sure where you are further south. I would think your season would be about over, too.


#309

Thanks. I’ll leave them be for now. We’re not expected to get long term below freezing temps for a while. The last couple of winters our temps never got below 10°, so while it does get pretty cold, it’s not frigid for long.

They were planted in June and didn’t produce anything but a few small berries. They are June bearers.

I may give them a shot of 10-10-10 soon. I’ve read that fertilizing them in the spring would cause too much green growth and possible rotting of the fruit?


#310

How to Move 2 and 3 year old apple trees:

Should I bareroot the tree (dig and hose off soil) or take a big soil ball to move to the new hole? I just assumed I’d take a soil ball but saw something on internet that says to bareroot it. Soil ball on the 3 yr old would be a monster to lift.


#311

In my understanding, the only reason for barerooting is to make it easier to move or transport the tree. Depending on what equipment or help you have, leaving as much of the soil ball as practical will be beneficial for alleviating the transplant shock.


#312

I had many a soil-ball plan turn into bare root by the time the tree reached its destination. Its worth it to try but many times it didn’t work out for me. I also never noticed a whole lot of difference. What I did notice is if I had to prune the roots a lot it took a lot longer to recover.


#313

If the distance to new location is short, it may be possible to lean the tree onto a piece of plastic and then drag it instead of lifting it up.


#314

Thanks guys. I’ll have helpers who may know how to ball and burlap, that sounds safest.

Deciding to consolidate apple trees in one area for deer/squirrel fencing. Going to run hot and ground wires at about four foot level for squirrels. Sell tickets to sit inside and watch.

Anyone know what is nose height for a white tail in erect posture? About four feet?


#315

If you bait the wires with some squares of Al foil folded over the live wire and then a dap of peanut butter on the foil, it won’t make too much difference what height. Once the deer go for that peanut butter they won’t be back to the area.


#316

Great advice on height not so important. Thanks.


#317

Should have said height doesn’t matter within some reasonable limits. Of course if the wires are way low or high then the deer will ignore them. But if they are in the typical range for the deer, especially if they are baited, the deer will find them.


#318

Deer nose height is lower than many people think. I originally had my electric fence (gallagher style) too high and a few got under it. A hot wire at 18" and 30" worked well for me, it had to be very visible (ribbon) and I also baited it with peanut butter. I had to have a ribbon at ~5’ on the interior fence because I had a few that thought they could get a running start and jump the double fence. One deer did this and landed right on a post, snapped the post, freaked out, and knocked over the fence on the other side getting out.


#319

Steve, We’ve moved a number of 2-4 yr old trees by digging down and around maybe a 2 ft circle, or whatever seemed possible to move. Then scooching/pulling/dragging it onto a piece of tarp or heavy plastic. If not too far, as @Stan suggested, dragging it to the new hole. Or tipping/pulling it into a wheelbarrow for farther moves. By roughly wrapping the tarp around the root ball we never lost much dirt. Not elegant but they’ve all done well. Hope yours do to! Sue


#320

Question not deserving a thread: I have a Hudson SP0 and an SP1 backpack sprayer, but need an extension wand to put on one or both. Do they make purely extension parts - the kind that would screw onto where the hose meets the original wand, and then allows you to screw the original wand on top of it? Like a nice piece of tubing in the middle? Or do most people rig something with epoxy and clamps?