I’ve never seen that kind of weather cause any problems.
Thanks. I’ve never ordered bareroot in the fall.
Without the heat the trees have a tendency to get more established by spring. If it’s really cold it’s hard on them! Looks like perfect weather to me.
I agree with @clarkinks, this weather is good for fall planting of bareroot trees. I’ve planted bareroot trees here in California in early November (similar weather, even warmer nights), and they did great.
Whatdya get, if you don’t mind me asking??
Yeah, you being in Texas, it’s prob OK. Unless y’all get a really cold winter, but that’s unlikely. I don’t think I could get away with it here though.
With dormant apple trees there is not safety in moving a ball, and it is probably advantageous to have a trees root system in one soil if you are moving a tree from a different soil, especially if the difference is textural. I move up to 3.5" caliber apple trees bare root by the hundreds but also grow some in inground bags where I move the ball (most landscape contractors prefer this because it’s what they are used to). Bare root apples, peaches, plums and cherries consistently rebound better from transplant than the trees with a soil ball. However, tree species without a fibrous root system do better with a soil ball- pears, persimmons, paw-paws, etc.
Species that do better BR benefit from the fact that you are moving a lot more root, but sometimes I cut back the roots to fit trees in 15 and 25 gallon pots and they still recover nicely.
Be BRave go BR.
Thanks Alan, very helpful! Do you just shake soil off the roots or hose it off before re-planting? So I would dig a wider circle of roots for BR than for ball?
Hunge, Reverend Morgan, King David, Gold Rush and Bramley’s Seedling. The Hunge and Reverend Morgan should do well here and we’ll see how the others do. Maybe…
No, I don’t shake off the roots, I don’t at all mind moving some soil with the roots as long as most of the root system is in the new soil. Yes, more roots always require more digging to plant the tree. We start with usually a 5’ diameter hole, no deeper than the desired root placement, and dig trenches beyond to set the longest roots in the new soil. Some roots may extend 4’ beyond the trunks if we extract as much root as possible- which we usually do. But my soil is light and not irrigated so roots reach far for water. We place a sheet of plastic down before initially planting them in the nursery so trees develop a shallower root structure and are easier to dig. Doesn’t always work- I spent an hour digging up a big (2.5"+ caliber) Fuji yesterday because the roots got below the plastic. I think it was on 106 which may be harder to move than111.
Valuable information, thanks.
When you’re a spoiled southerner, how warm should you keep your green house in winter? My leanto tree house and planting shed gets a little more building like all the time, and with the little room heater I have in it, it’s at the point where I can keep it warm even when it’s frosted outside. My question is how warm. I have cold weather crops starting in there, but I also have a citrus tree in a pot in there. I want the lettuce and cabbage and other stuff to grow as much as the sun will let them, but I am not sure if they will grow significantly faster if it’s like 55 in there versus 36 versus 45? This is the first year that it’s sturdy enough to really handle the entire winter and I am trying to cram it crazy full of plants so I want them to benefit maximally!
The plan is to keep planting lettuce in waves and if our winter is not too severe, move them regularly to low tunnels.
What’s the best place to buy Persimmon trees? I checked out the nursery list thread and most places don’t sell persimmon.
The nurseries people often buy persimmons from are England Orchard Nursery and Just Fruit and Exotics nursery.
Edible Landscaping in Afton, Virginia sells persimmon trees and knows about mid-Atlantic growing conditions. I think they’re zone 7, phone for advice. They sell pot grown stuff.
If you scroll down to the bottom of that list there is a list of places good for certain fruits. I think the best ones for persimmons have been named already, but burnt Ridge and One Green World are also good I think.
I have a Hale Haven Peach Tree that has never set fruit. I found this today -
Most varieties of peaches and nectarines are self- fertile. However those with Hale in their parentage
will require another variety as a pollinator. Examples are ‘Early Hale’ and Hale Haven’.
Anyone else have problems with Hale haven setting fruit? Is Hale Haven worth keeping? I have plenty of peach trees around to pollinate the tree.
How old is the tree? Does it bloom well? I looked at your profile page and you mention your oldest peach tree (Reliance) was planted about 5 years ago, and Halehaven was planted sometime after that. Sometimes young peach trees take a while to get going but eventually become productive. Some varieties are more prone to this than others, while some peach trees never become very productive.
If the soil is poor (you mention the soil isn’t the best in your profile page) and the vigor of the tree is poor, it can take also take a little longer for peach trees to come into production.
I’ve also read all the J.H Hale offspring peaches are self-sterile, which surprises me since the sterility is a recessive trait. Either way, I’ve read Hale Haven is supposed to be a productive peach.
It was released for commercial production, so my guess is that it will produce peaches, especially since you have plenty of other peaches for pollination. If it’s a young tree, my advice would be to keep the tree for now and give it a little more time.
According to Dave Wilson Nursery, Halehaven is self-fruitful.
The Hale Haven is a smaller - medium size tree with my large Elberta being the best. The 5 plus year old Reliance is the worst tree growth wise. The Hale Haven did not runt but it is on a smaller side. Blossom wise it does very well. This past year it looked beautiful. It did bloom earlier than some of my other trees but the bloom period was longer than my other trees - it was the last tree to lose blooms. The tree is healthy - no sign of canker or peach leaf curl. I sprayed with immunox starting around blossom break… No insecticide until Japanese Beetle season (which was a mistake on my other trees). The trees in the same vicinity, same age as an Elberta (not my large Elberta) and a Contender. Both trees have set fruit for two years. The Contender and Elberta are slightly larger. I am assuming I have a tree to tree pollination issue but I am not sure.