Questions not deserving of a whole thread

Some people cut them out immediately. I’d wait till they get bigger and cut the weaker of them. I like to verify what does what and nobody suddenly dies.

1 Like

I thought so, but my neighbor gave me some extras a week ago and they are growing. Microscopic compared to the ones I planted in March, but alive.

Asked the neighbor, he sprayed a bunch of 2,4 D all over his yard our shared fence line. I can tell it drifted into my raspberries, a bit into my blueberries, and hit my gooseberries in addition to my d’anju. Very upsetting!

1 Like

I’m dealing with that too but it seems to be affecting my bumblebees most compared to my plants

Horsetail prefers to grow where there is low calcium. If it wont interfere with preferred plants spread a liberal amount of oyster shell and the horsetail will be gone within a year or so. Of course you may use other calcium options for a quicker response. I find horsetail comes up where i have sprayed glyphosate. Does it deplete calcium in the soil? Cannot find relevent literature but on my property there is a definite correlation.

3 Likes

I’ve read that it won’t grow in healthy soil in general and that one remedy is to spread a few inches of compost over the whole yard. But my horsetail is happy in all areas of my yard so far.

1 Like

Which type of hawthorn do people grow for it’s “medicinal” purposes? Is there a preferred cultivar that would be good for syrup/jam/thing to add to a pie/etc? Is there a dwarfing rootstock for it?

I’ve got some sun-scald on the graft unions of some apple trees. I keep seeing fig growers promoting IV Organic 3-in-1 Plant Guard.

It’s got some mix of oils and natural pest deterrents in it. Anyone use this? Is it legit? Should I just use a cheap water based latex paint? If so what’s your preferred mixtures and ratios?

1 Like

First year I’ve seen fruitlets that look almost sunscalded. I’ve been thinning fruit and am about 18 trees in so far. These were from only one tree (Muscat de Venus).
Uploading: IMG_4130.jpeg…

1 Like

You probably hit post too soon. Your photo isn’t appearing.

I have Groundwork All Purpose fertilizer (10-10-10). How much should I put on 2 year old pawpaw trees? I have never fertilized them before

1 Like

Seems like a stupid question but any suggestions on how to lay out a grid spacing on uneven ground without surveying equipment or tractor?

How big of a scale? There’s always the good ol fashion string method if the scale is small enough

2 Likes

Get one of those huge rolls of twine and a bunch of sticks or stakes

1 Like

Yeah. I’ve got a roll of bailing twine. That was my approach, the problem is that there is a bit of a roll

I’ve done it like this (simplified): Stakes are placed at the beginning and end of the row, then you aim over the stakes, and an assistant moves and places the next stakes in the row. With this method, you can also determine perpendicular angles

1 Like

Sorry about that! I have terrible internet. Sometimes a post or photo will look like it went, but the connection is probably severed during the upload. We just got a satellite based provider so hopefully that will help.

I used masons twine / string to lay out the orchard. Some of my rows were over 800’ long. I used T-Posts to establish a straight line, the white tops helped with visibility, I placed the T-Posts and lined them up by eye, measuring the placement of each post at each end of the row. The masonry line can be stretched quite tight and helped to maintain a straight line in wind. I had to use a T-Post about every 100’ to keep the line from bowing in the wind. I didn’t triangulate my rows because I have so many different root stocks and therefore different planting distances within rows. My trees are arranged by row according to root stock. I’ve been using the same 1000’ masonry line for about 7 years now.

8 Likes

Thanks a good observation on the white tips of the t-posts.

Andy, what pruning or trellis system are you using?