Questions not deserving of a whole thread


#101

That pic threw me, never had seen one so large.:grinning:


#102

My asian pear has Fabraea leaf spot issue.Can I use Immunox to control this fungi disease? Somehow, I didn’t see pear listed on its label, thought ask before applying


#103

I don’t know if we have any actual arborists in here, but I’d love some opinions on whether this is a terrible idea, besides the normal amount of terrible idea most of my projects are due to lack of talent.

In order to carve out space for my garden, I’ve had to teach myself to cut down trees. The ugly greenhouse top you see is made from scrapwood and beams I cut myself. Only the part that for the shelf is purchased 2x4s, and of course the plywood top and bottom. The trees on the right and left both shade my garden. To take them down safely, I’m going to need help. The one on the left I am taking to the ground, and the one on the right, I’m going to cut in half and let regrow to just above the shed level. It’s important to note that the shed is technically a treehouse, and is supported on a stump in the back left corner and the tree in the front right corner, and is stabilized with stones in the other corners.

Since I need to be very careful taking the trees down with help, I’m tempted to go ahead and girdle the trees to get the light to my garden and my wife’s pool as quickly as possible. I should be able to take them down in the next month or two.

Is that a dumb idea? Will they even totally dry out and drop their leaves at that size in a month?


#104

Girdling won’t phase them in a months time. I don’t think you’ll notice any change just by girdling thru the cambium layer. If you go deeper and cut off the water conducting tissues, then yes leaves would drop. But that might make the tree unstable. It could fall anywhere.

Taking down trees that size is very dangerous for the inexperienced. PLease be careful.

Note: I’m no arborist. You should at least talk to one and get a professional opinion and cost estimate.


#105

I just girdled some (small) trees in an underbrush area I have. I took all the bark off all around the tree–about 6 inches wide.

My observation was that you could see the effects pretty quickly, but the effects weren’t uniformly even. Some parts seemed to die a bit more quickly than others.

Now granted, these were smaller trees and not big ones like you’ll be working with.

But I think the risk is that instead of a whole, healthy tree, you’ll be cutting down a tree that has parts that are more dead than others (potential falling limbs?) and I think that would cause more hazard and more variability when you cut it down.

The upside to girdling is that you lose the vegetation and make the are less shady. The downside would be that it might make the tree more difficult and more hazardous to cut down, increasing the chances for injury and property damage.

I don’t think the potential convenience of doing this is worth upping the danger (even slightly) of cutting down the tree.


#106

I have a second year eureka persimmon tree that has been growing well this year after a poor performance last year. It now has a bloom bud (just one) and I am not familiar with persimmon at all other than eating wild ones as a child. Is this usual for them to bloom well into the spring/summer and will it take more than one bloom to produce fruit?

Katy


#107

Are you talking about the really tall tree to the right? If you chop it off low it’s dead.
Maybe there is a little tree in front of it?


#108

I dug up some new potatoes. This is the first time I’ve grown them in this plot with pretty heavy soil. Some sections seem calloused and are rough and brown. They’re firm and seem otherwise fine and the plants were healthy. Ignore where I inadvertantly took off some of the skins. The variety is Caribe.

Any ideas? Did they just have trouble expanding on the heavy soil?


#109

It looks like those are white inside but I’m not certain. I grew some last year that were the same color of purple inside as yours are outside! They weren’t just purple, they were a bright, almost floresent purple. It was so much fun giving them away and watching people freak out. haha. Mashed potatoes made with them looked exactly like a bowl of purple cake icing. Fun but hard to get used to. No matter what yours look like, there is nothing like new potatoes so I’m sure you’ll enjoy them!


#110

Might be the start of a scab infection. If so does not effect the taste and is fine to eat. But you might want to look at moving the spot for potatoes next year.

If it is scab, the older potatoes (if you have any there) will show the more characteristic “scabs”.


#111

tried to break off a inside growing branch and made this hole the size of a dime peeling the bark off. Sprayed bleach water on it and wrapped it grafting tape


#112

I have a black walnut tree that I’ve been trying to kill for 2 years. 8 " in diameter. 2016 I drilled holes in it and injected round up concentrate. It killed All the leaves and looked like it wasn’t coming back this year. No leaves until now. But now I see it’s putting out new growth. So I peeled off some of the bark , most of it is dead but I peeled down to the green area and sort of painted the area between bark and wood (cambium layer?) with round up concentrate. Will this work? Or is there any other way that would be more effective?
Thanks.


#113

Bonide has something called Stump Out and others gave stuff too.

See below

https://www.google.com/search?client=ms-android-motorola&ei=_19EWeisDY22jwTVvZ_4DQ&q=stump+removal+chemical&oq=stumo+rid&gs_l=mobile-gws-serp.1.3.0i71k1l5.0.0.0.29314.1.1.0.0.0.0.0.0..0.0…0…1…64.mobile-gws-serp…1.0.0.uuCVHSdRQUk

Mike


#114

Thank you. This is not a stump. It’s the tree.


#115

Girdle the tree as low as you can. Remove any new shoots promptly that crop up underneath that. Tree=dead.


#116

I bet @Auburn can help! Those Auburn fans know how easy it is to kill a tree! (Forgive me Bill…truth is what that 'Bama fan did to those trees at Toomer’s was so far beyond friendly college pranks that it isn’t funny!) But really…what did that guy use, do you know?


#117

Timing is important. The tree needs to be sending energy to the roots at time of app. For every species there is a window- the label should provide some guidance on this. In the NE, Sept seems to work well for trees- while leaves are still green and functioning but active growth has stopped. Girdling is the time honored method and can be done with a chain saw in short order if you want the tree to die standing. Just cut through the bark, into the cambium a bit with two slices 3-5" apart- then work sideways cuts to remove the strip of bark entirely. Or use an ax for the final step.

Sometimes 2 apps are required with Roundup and sometimes a girdled tree will send up a nurse strip of cambium that allows it to survive so nothing is fail proof the first time if you want to leave the tree standing (to season the wood?)


#118

Thank you. If this application doesn’t take care of it, I will definitely try it in September .


#119

Spike 80DF or tebuthiuron was the herbicide used to kill the Toomer’s corner trees.

A homeowner can apparently buy the stuff (or at least it’s available for sale on Amazon) but it is a little pricey.

Certainly, that seems like it would be a great option.

Kind of like at a barbecue, when the host can’t get the fire lit, and throws the lighter fluid down and returns with the gas can… :laughing:


#120

So I dried my garlic carefully in the shed, broke the tops off and put it on a flat garden cart bed to clean it up to bag it, got distracted, and got it rained on for a couple of days. Sigh. Did I ruin it? I am worried it’s not going to dry well again and mildew and mold.
Should I chop and freeze all of it now to salvage it, or will it dry and keep ok?