Ranking of varieties of cherries, only "high quality" varieties

[Jose-Albacete]

Today I’ll take a few minutes to discuss two German varieties, which I consider tremendously interesting.

They’re like night and day, as they’re at opposite extremes.

As a background, I’ll tell you that there are currently three good programs for breeding new cherry varieties in Germany:

• Cerasina Program by breeder Peter Stoppel

• Julius Kühn Institute Program

• LFP Program

Well, we’ll talk about two varieties, one ultra-early ripening and the other ultra-late ripening.

When I say ultra-early and ultra-late, the best way to provide you with their ripening dates is to use the Bing variety, which is your reference standard.

How do we calculate this?

Easy, since we use the difference between our standard that is Burlat, and yours that is Bing.

And we know for certain that Bing ripens 19 days after Burlat, so it’s easy to calculate.

So here we go.

• Narana

It’s an ultra-early ripening variety from the Julius Kühn Institute program.

Since I don’t trust the ripening dates offered by nurseries, I usually use the calendar offered by Plantgest, an independent organization dedicated to testing varieties for professional Italian fruit growers.

This is Narana’s ripening date:

So if it ripens 10 days before Burlat ( (you need to add 19 days to calculate its ripening date compared to Bing.)
And it ripens 29 days before Bing.

This is the most relevant information from its file, translated from German to English:

So, for impatient people eagerly awaiting the start of cherry season, this variety is incredibly good.

Now let’s look at the opposite extreme, the quality cherry more latest-ripening variety
(this one will surprise you).

• Kir Rosso

This is an ultra-late cherry variety from the LFP program.

Being a very recent variety, we only have the Graeb ripening calendar, which will be extremely useful.

This is the ripening date for Kir Rosso (see very very below )

We’re not interested in knowing when it ripens in Germany; what we’re interested in is its ripening date compared to our Burlat standard.

If you look closely, Kir Rosso ripens 60 days after Burlat (you now have to subtract 19 days to calculate its ripening date compared to Bing), so Kir Rosso ripens 41 days after Bing.

And I attach information on this variety.

KIR ROSSO ™ KSG 03 A (S) - gräb gbr gehölze und obstbau

I hope you enjoy this information about two varieties that are so opposite in the calendar.

Best regards
Jose

[ZigaPirih]

Jose, please do not forget about me I really want to “prepare” me for autumn and plan according to your suggestion and experience.

[Beemster]

…when does the early variety bloom?..in relation to Bing or better yet to Chelan which is a early variety I’m considering/…I doubt many on this forum live in zone 8A…I’m in 6A with frosts too often as late as May 1-10 and winters to -10F…I doubt the early blooming varieties will have a chance in my area …the very late variety would interest me…the latest I now have is Hudson…also very unlikely these varieties would be available in the US…nothing is easy with cherries where I am.

[Beemster]

FWIW…Cherry Times Cherry Times web site…one can use Google Translate to translate the entire site into your native language…enjoy

Here’s a more detailed breakdown:

1. Access Google Translate: Open your web browser and go to translate.google.com.
2. Enter Website URL: In the text box provided, paste the full URL of the website you want to translate.
3. Select Target Language: Choose the language you want the website to be translated into.
4. Click “Translate”: Click the “Translate” button to initiate the translation process.
5. View the Translated Page: Google Translate will display the translated version of the website.

[Primoz]

Hi Ziga,

I can send you some cherry scions. Not sure what will work at your place, but my friends a bit norther from you (KG) say they only have August and winter.

Lets wait for Jose’s list and we’ll go from there.

Btw, @Jose-Albacete how is your Royal Brynn you bought last year from Ukraine doing?
Should be the best from Royal series.

[Jose-Albacete]

@Primoz

Hi Ziga

Hi Ziga and Primoz.
If I remember correctly, your problem is humidity and the high risk of cracking.
There are quite a few resistant varieties, but many of them are difficult to obtain.
In the list I prepare for you, I won’t include varieties from Peter Stoppel’s Cerasina series, or the varieties from the LFP program, the Kir series, as they are extremely difficult to obtain.

I’ll try to find some time on my day off from work, but the orchard takes up a lot of my time right now.

Yesterday, I pruned a variety highly recommended for you , in the vegetative stage to shape its structure. It’s this variety:

• Sabrina

Sabrina® - Cherries

It has a very good flavor, is a crunchy cherry, and is resistant to cracking (I’ve seen it for sale in several French nurseries).

Pruning in the vegetative stage is very short, with the first pruning to 15 cm, and subsequent pruning to 20 cm.
It’s important to keep branches at least 70 cm long so that the tree responds vigorously to pruning, and so that we obtain three new branches from each branch we cut.

This was the before:

Look at all the branches removed.

And this is the after.

It is the third pruning (normally 4 must be done) ,
but this will probably be its last pruning, since Sabrina is very vigorous and responds very well to pruning.

Regards
Jose

[Jose-Albacete]

@ZigaPirih

Jose, please do not forget about me I really want to “prepare” me for autumn and plan according to your suggestion and experience.

Come on, guys, let’s prepare a list of cracking-resistant varieties that are affordable to buy in nurseries (at least in European nurseries), choosing them based on quality criteria and with a staggered ripening period.

• Narana ( - 10 Burlat )
• Royal Tioga ( - 5 Burlat )
• Rocket ( + 5 Burlat )
• Sabrina ( + 7 Burlat )
• Adriana ( + 11 Burlat )
• Frisco ( + 14 Burlat )
• Santina ( + 14 Burlat )
• Black Star ( + 17 Burlat )
• Canada Giant ( + 17 Burlat )
• Christiana ( + 17 Burlat )
• Sandra ( + 18 Burlat , Czech variety not to be confused with Sandra Rose )
• Blaze Star ( +20 Burlat )
• Justyna ( + 20 Burlat , medium-high cracking resistance, very good cherry )
• Somerset ( + 23 Burlat )
• Lapins ( + 24 Burlat )
• SPC-106 Sofia ( + 24 Burlat )
• Hedelfinger ( + 26 Burlat )
• Henriette ( + 32 Burlat )
• Regina ( + 32 Burlat )
• Areko ( + 40 Burlat )

The ripening dates offered , are in relation to the reference variety in Europe (Burlat).
To understand it in relation to Bing (reference variety in the United States), it is very simple to make the conversion, since Bing ripens 19 days after Burlat.

I don’t have some of these varieties bearing fruit in my orchard, but their resistance to cracking and quality are fully proven.

We will gradually add more interesting varieties to this list

Best regards
Jose

[Jose-Albacete]

@Primoz

Btw, @Jose-Albacete how is your Royal Brynn you bought last year from Ukraine doing?
Should be the best from Royal series.

Primoz and Ziga.
Royal Brynn is a truly fantastic cherry. It’s similar in size to the Royal Bailey (34-36 mm), very dark red, and resistant to cracking. But I don’t have any friends in Ukraine, and year after year I can’t bring it to Spain.
Please, if you or Ziga have any friends in Ukraine, please send me their contact information via private message, and that way we can get this magnificent variety for the three of us.

Regards
Jose

[Eme]

This is really helpful. Can I just clarify though in addition to what you said earlier in this stream?

“Pruning in the vegetative stage is very short, with the first pruning to 15 cm, and subsequent pruning to 20 cm.
It’s important to keep branches at least 70 cm long so that the tree responds vigorously to pruning, and so that we obtain three new branches from each branch we cut.”

So, you decapitate the new trees at 18” tops. The following summer, after branches reach 70cm you prune them back to 15cm? (Somewhere else I think it said 4 buds?). The next summer you prune back to 20cm? I’m not understanding because that would only be keeping 5cm of new growth. Do you mean you are pruning off 15cm and then another 20cm keeping the branches at least 70cm with each pruning? Sorry to be so confused!

[Jose-Albacete]

@Eme

would only be keeping 5cm of new growth

Stella, you haven’t understood correctly.
Please let me cut out the images I’ll need , from the tutorial of cherry training pruning in Spanish Bush system , and with the images, you’ll understand perfectly.

Best regards
Jose

[ZigaPirih]

Check your inbox. Seems like we found Royal Brynn here in Slovenia…

[Jose-Albacete]

@ZigaPirih

Seems like we found Royal Brynn here in Slovenia

Wooooo !!!
Fingers crossed for luck, and Royal Brynn is the legitimate variety.

Regards
Jose

[Beemster]

Sweet cherry cultivars for the fresh market

Sweet cherry cultivars for the fresh market…a good article from Oregon State University…for US growers…lots of good information on varieties

New cultivars give Pacific Northwest cherry growers more options on fruit size, durability and harvest timing.

Credit: © Oregon State University

[Beemster]

https://treefruit.wsu.edu/web-article/cherry-varieties/

Varieties – Cherry

…good article for US growers from Washington State University detailing 14 varieties (11 mahogany / 3 blush) grown there including many discussed here on this thread…good photo of each variety…(example)

Regina

Click on the image to open the full view for information about each variety…enjoy

[Johnniebluesky]

Jose,

I have stumbled upon this website while trying to learn more about some varieties that interested me. I was fascinated to read through the whole thread and I had to create an account to show my appreciation for your valuable insights into fruit growing. I am from Samarkand Uzbekistan and have a commercial orchard growing different types of fruit. Cherries hold a special place in my heart as we currently have several varieties planted on KGB:

Sweet Early
Sweet Aryanna
Samba
Black Star
Lapins
Skeena

As you might have noticed almost all of our varieties are self fertile as our bloom period tends to be very very short. We have had issues with Regina, Kordia and Ziiraat 0900. (Skeena did not seem to Pollinate Regina all through bloom time intersected.)

We have more than enough chill hours and have few rainfalls during bloom/harvest and have very hot summers 40+C. However, we have two issues that I wanted to discuss with you:

1. High Ph soil of 8.7-8.9.
2. Late frosts have become a common theme over the last years.

What Rootstock you use as your soil ph is simillar? Currently we only use Maxma14.

What auto fertile variety would you suggest to plant given all info above?

My main candidates are:

Frisco
Sweet Lorenz together with Sweet Aryanna
Royal Tioga(Low Chill hour requirement might be an issue?)
Catania together with Skeena
BR,
Johnnie

[Beemster]

https://treefruit.wsu.edu/web-article/cherry-rootstocks/

@Johnniebluesky

• High Ph soil of 8.7-8.9.
• Late frosts have become a common theme over the last years.

this is the Google Gemini recommendations for rootstocks for your conditions

For sweet cherry trees facing high pH soil (8.7-8.9) and a history of late frosts, selecting the right rootstock is crucial. Here’s a breakdown of recommended varieties and important considerations:

Rootstocks for High pH (Alkaline) Soil:

• Mahaleb: Traditionally, Mahaleb seedlings have shown good tolerance to high pH and drought conditions. Some clonal Mahaleb selections, like Bogdány, are also noted for good vigor and productivity in various soil conditions, including those with high pH and calcareous soil.
• MxM Series (Mahaleb x Mazzard): These hybrids were developed to combine the best traits of both.
  • MxM 60: This rootstock is adaptable to a wide range of soils, from sand to heavy clay, and has good resistance to crown gall and collar rot. It’s often considered better than Mahaleb for sweet cherry on many soil types.
• Krymsk® Series: These Russian-bred rootstocks are gaining recognition for their adaptability.
  • Krymsk® 6: Has shown good pH tolerance (up to 8.5) and is very cold hardy. It’s also more tolerant of low soil moisture stress than some other popular rootstocks.
  • Krymsk® 5: While its high pH tolerance isn’t explicitly stated as “good” as Krymsk 6, it is noted for being tolerant of stress conditions like high temperatures and low soil moisture, which can be related to alkaline soil issues. It also boasts excellent cold hardiness.
• Adara: While primarily used as an interstem for incompatibility, Adara is noted for performing well in calcareous soil, which is often associated with high pH.
• Peach-Almond Hybrids (e.g., Bright’s Hybrid® 5, BB 106®, Cornerstone): While primarily for peaches and almonds, some of these have shown tolerance to high pH due to excess calcium or can tolerate calcareous soil conditions. It’s worth researching their compatibility and performance specifically with sweet cherries if other options are limited.

Rootstocks for Late Frost Tolerance:

Late frosts are tricky because while rootstocks can influence the overall hardiness and bloom timing, the scion (the sweet cherry variety itself) plays a significant role. However, some rootstocks can offer advantages:

• Mahaleb: Scion cultivars grafted onto Mahaleb rootstocks may acclimatize earlier in the fall/winter, which can be beneficial in areas with early hard frosts. It is also generally more cold-tolerant than Mazzard.
• Krymsk® Series (Krymsk® 5, Krymsk® 6, Krymsk® 7): These rootstocks are consistently highlighted for their excellent cold hardiness. Krymsk® 6, for instance, is described as “very cold hardy.”
• Gisela® Series (Gisela 5, 6, 12): The parent material of these rootstocks (P. cerasus and P. canescens) are hardier than Mazzard, and this hardiness is imparted to the Gisela series. While dwarfing rootstocks like Gisela might have flowers closer to the ground, increasing frost risk if no protection is in place, their inherent hardiness is a plus. They also induce precocious bloom and high flower counts, which can mean more fruit after a severe frost even if some are lost.
• Vigorous Rootstocks: In situations where no frost protection is available, vigorous rootstocks that produce larger trees can have an advantage. Flowers at the top of a taller tree are in warmer air, potentially having higher survival rates during a frost. However, this is less about inherent cold hardiness of the rootstock itself and more about tree architecture.

Important Considerations for Your Specific Conditions (pH 8.7-8.9 & Late Frosts):

1. Soil Amendments: With such high pH, you’ll likely need to consider amending your soil to lower the pH, or at least provide chelated iron and other micronutrients that become less available in highly alkaline conditions. No rootstock can perfectly overcome extreme soil pH without some intervention.
2. Chilling Requirements: Ensure the sweet cherry scion variety you choose has a chilling requirement that aligns with your climate to avoid overly early blooming, which increases frost risk.
3. Site Selection: Planting on slopes or elevated areas improves air drainage, which can help prevent cold air pockets and reduce frost damage. Avoid low-lying areas.
4. Water Management: High pH soils can sometimes be prone to nutrient deficiencies or issues with water infiltration. Ensure good drainage, and be prepared to provide supplemental irrigation, especially during dry periods. Some high pH tolerant rootstocks are also drought tolerant (e.g., Mahaleb, Krymsk series).
5. Bacterial Canker: Late frosts can create wounds that increase susceptibility to bacterial canker. Some rootstocks, like Krymsk® 5 and Krymsk® 6, are noted as being less sensitive to bacterial canker, which is a beneficial trait in frost-prone areas.

Summary Recommendations:

Given your high pH and late frost concerns, focus on:

• Krymsk® 5, Krymsk® 6: Excellent cold hardiness, and good reported pH tolerance for Krymsk 6. Krymsk 5 also tolerant to stress conditions.
• Mahaleb (and possibly MxM 60): Known for pH tolerance and generally good cold hardiness, and for inducing earlier acclimation in the fall.
• Gisela® series (Gisela 5, 6, 12): Good cold hardiness, high productivity (meaning more flowers to potentially lose to frost but still get a crop). Be mindful of their dwarfing nature and potential for higher frost impact on lower flowers if not protected.

It’s always best to consult with local agricultural extension services or cherry growers in your specific region. They can provide the most up-to-date and localized recommendations based on your microclimate and soil conditions.

[krismoriah]

I got this same bag of cherries at ALDI two weeks ago

I went to their website and it looks as if they are Tulare.

They have sat on my counter for two weeks… i think i got like 4lbs of them in two bags. They are much better today than when i bought them. Sweet, juicy and very dark red. A few in the bottom are showing some mold but other than that im super pleased with them.

Burchell says it has excellent storage and shipping qualities…i believe it.

Not sure if they are Tulare but they were the first ones to show up at my local markets and the description fits from the seller.

[Beemster]

…here is Google Gemini on the characteristics of the rootstock you are now using…Maxma14

Maxma 14 (also known as MaxMa 14 or Maxma® 14) is a popular semi-dwarfing rootstock for sweet cherries, a hybrid of Prunus mahaleb and Prunus avium (Mazzard). It’s widely used, especially in Europe, for its balanced characteristics.

Here’s a breakdown of its key features:

Tree Size (Vigor):

• Semi-dwarfing: Maxma 14 typically dwarfs cherry trees to about 2/3 (65-70%) of the size of a standard cherry tree on Mazzard or Mahaleb rootstock. This usually translates to a mature tree height of 12-18 feet if unpruned.
• Soil Influence: Less dwarfing may be observed in highly fertile, loamy soils.
• Management: Trees can be maintained at a desired height with summer pruning.

Productivity and Precocity:

• Early Bearing: Maxma 14 is considered precocious , meaning it induces early and heavy bearing. Trees can start producing significant crops in their early years (e.g., 4-5 years earlier than on some standard rootstocks).
• High Yields: It promotes high yields and can positively influence fruit size and quality.
• Crop Management: Due to its high productivity, some varieties may require crop management (e.g., thinning) in early years to prevent overcropping and maintain fruit size.

Soil and Environmental Adaptations:

• Soil Tolerance: Maxma 14 shows good adaptation to a wide range of soil conditions.
• Wet Soil Tolerance: It has good tolerance to wet soils , making it more suitable than some other rootstocks (like Mahaleb) for sites that might experience periodic moisture. However, good drainage is still generally recommended for cherries.
• Calcareous Soils/Iron Chlorosis: It performs well in calcareous (limey) soils and is resistant to iron chlorosis, a common nutrient deficiency in such soils.
• Drought Tolerance: It is moderately drought tolerant .
• Cold Hardiness: Maxma 14 is considered cold-resistant and can adapt to cold climates.
• Soil Fatigue: It can tolerate soil fatigue to some extent.

Disease Resistance:

• Bacterial Canker (Pseudomonas): It shows good tolerance to Pseudomonas syringae (bacterial canker) , and in some trials, trees on Maxma 14 had smaller cankers compared to other rootstocks.
• Nematodes: Maxma 14 is resistant to nematodes .
• Phytophthora: It is moderately sensitive to Phytophthora (a type of root rot), so good drainage is still important to avoid issues.

Other Characteristics:

• Anchorage: Provides an abundant root system with good anchorage , generally not requiring support.
• Suckering: Exhibits very low suckering from the rootstock.
• Compatibility: Generally has good compatibility with most sweet cherry varieties .

Considerations:

• While tolerant of various soils, it’s generally not recommended for heavy-textured and poorly drained clay soils where Phytophthora could be a higher risk.
• As with any rootstock, proper care and pruning are essential, especially in the early years, to manage its precocity and maintain fruit quality.

Overall, Maxma 14 is a versatile and popular choice for cherry growers looking for a semi-dwarfing tree with early and consistent production, good soil adaptability, and useful disease resistances.

[CAvocado]

@Jose-Albacete
Do you have any experience with the 2013 Summerland release ‘Suite Note’?

There are some publications on the variety, but it seems somewhat obscure compared to others. As I had mentioned previously, I bought one of these trees from Sierra Gold Nurseries, but until I get fruit myself, I don’t know much. Considering how it appears to have good qualities, I was surprised that I haven’t found any information on it in the thread so far.

This is about the best description I have found thus far: (from Tree Connect)

My tree as of June 6:

Thanks,
Eddie

[Beemster]

@CAvocado

Suite Note’?

https://cdnsciencepub.com/doi/10.4141/cjps-2014-156

‘SPC136’ (Suite Note™) sweet cherry