Kiko, there are people here who grow cherries, and no matter how much you say and promise that you can get a cherry (even just one) to try within a year of grafting, you’re lying to yourself and others.
I’ll try to make this as clear as I can: “IT’S NOT POSSIBLE.”
Cherry fruiting darts begin to form on thick wood 2 year old.
What you’re saying about picking a cherry at the cross of the tree happens with “VERY LUCKY” in the third year.
Why do I know this with absolute certainty?
For two reasons:
I have cherry trees that are older than you are.
I read and read, and I keep reading publications about cherry trees, to avoid talking nonsense.
What you’re saying is what I’m going to show you, and when it happens.
These are two-year-old trees, and logically, they don’t have cherries.
Look, since you’re on a North American forum, I invite you to read a book by one of the most knowledgeable people about cherry trees in the world, the Professor Lynn E. Long (University of Oregon).
With great luck, after reading this book, you’ll stop talking nonsense, you’ll have a clearer understanding, and you’ll stop confusing other people.
If you water and fertilize the trees daily, yes, it’s possible.
With your irrigation system and those “magic potions,” it certainly isn’t. That 3-year-old tree in your photo is ridiculous (It is also clearly noticeable that it needs more water). You can grow a tree like that in just 1 year.
As I’ve told you several times along the way, you can teach people about serving meals and hospitality, but you can’t teach them much about fruit trees.
That cherry tree was pruned very recently, which is why you see its reduced size.
You’re being disrespectful and trying to offend me again, and you’re not going to irritate me.
Yes, my profession is a hotel and restaurant, and I’m proud of it, since it’s a business built with the efforts of my parents and myself, but that’s not incompatible with having a good knowledge of the fruit trees.
And I have just one question for you.
Why don’t you dedicate yourself to contributing positive information to the forum and stop trying to argue with me?
Kiko, you are not right here… I can tell you with 100% that you are able to buy from at least 2 nurseries you mentioned. How? I bought some of mine varieties from them. And i did not buy in bulk but 2 trees from each i am total hobby level grower and they sold it to me.
Hi Beemster, it’s nice to be able to discuss something interesting.
What you’re saying is logical and applies not only to Carmen but also to some other varieties, Rocket, for example.
They are varieties that flower between two flowering periods (they flower partially between two periods).
In Carmen’s case, the first two-thirds of its flowering period correspond to mid-flowering, but its final stage of flowering can be considered late.
The variety is native to Hungary, where it is indicated that its most suitable pollinators are Van and Sunburst (both mid-blooming varieties), as you can see on the Hungarian cherry specialist website “cseresznye info”
Artevos indicates that it is a mid-/late-blooming variety.
Therefore, Carmen is considered a mid-blooming variety, but for optimal pollination, it is advisable to pair it with a compatible mid blooming compatible variety and other late-blooming compatible variety.
I have had trouble sourcing cherries and would love to hear how you ordered from them so I can order some too. Artevos don’t seem to sell cherries at all to anyone but just license their varieties. Battistini have a 10 tree minimum per variety.
I haven’t tried ordering from Zanzi but there’s no indication that they sell to hobbyists outside Italy. I have contacted many nurseries and have never had a positive result from a nursery that didn’t indicate on their page that they specifically sell to hobbyists internationally.
If you or Jose tell me how you ordered just two trees (e.g. did you use email in English or Italian) I can try to order a tree and report back.
If any of these nurseries actually sell to international hobbyists I can include them in this year’s thread on European nurseries.
I don’t know what’s going on between Kiko and Jose offline but some posts on this thread are obvious personal attacks and I am wondering why our beloved leaders don’t see this.
BTW, just a shoutout to @Jose-Albacete: I really enjoyed your posts and appreciate your contributions to this site.
…so it is possible…seems like if 2 year old wood was used for the graft scion, there would be a reasonable chance of getting a couple cherries on the graft the next year…see the following caveats…I certainly would not bet against it…especially if the year old rootstock was vigorously grown prior to accepting the graft…that’s my understanding anyway…maybe you two are not talking about the same exact thing?
…from Google Gemini
Sweet Cherries (Prunus avium): Sweet cherries primarily bear fruit on spurs (short, stubby fruiting structures) that develop on wood that is two years old or older . However, some varieties of sweet cherries, and especially those grown under certain training systems, can produce some fruit at the base of one-year-old wood (often on axillary buds). This is usually not their primary mode of production, but it can occur.
Important Considerations for a Grafted Scion:
Even if the one-year-old scion wood technically could have fruit buds that produce cherries, in the context of a newly grafted scion, the situation is different:
Scion Wood Selection: As mentioned before, when collecting scion wood for grafting, you typically select healthy, vigorous one-year-old growth that is primarily vegetative. If the one-year-old wood you collected already had well-developed fruit buds, it would actually be less ideal for grafting because it would divert energy from graft healing into flowering/fruiting too soon.
Energy Diversion: A newly grafted scion, even if it has a few flower buds, will put almost all its energy into forming a strong graft union and establishing new vegetative growth (leaves and shoots) to support itself. If it tries to fruit in the very first year, it can severely stress the graft, potentially leading to failure or a very weak, unproductive tree in the long run. Most horticulturists recommend removing any blossoms that appear on a newly grafted tree in its first year or two.
Rootstock Age/Vigor: Even if the scion is from a two-year-old plant (meaning the wood itself could have fruit buds), the one-year-old rootstock needs time to establish a robust root system to support the scion’s growth and eventual fruiting.
In summary:
While one-year-old cherry wood (especially tart cherry) can bear fruit, for a newly grafted cherry scion, it’s still highly improbable to get fruit the very next spring/summer. The priority for a fresh graft is establishing the union and vegetative growth. If fruit buds do appear, it’s generally best to remove them to ensure the long-term health and productivity of your newly grafted tree.
Well… To tell you the truth, it was not easy. First few calls with them it was clear NO (we can not sell to hobbiysts). But… I called few more times and they probably had enough of me and just said yes (probably on call nr. 6 or 7) the thing that helped probably also is that I speak italian and lucky enough to be a neighbour country to Italy and available option for post to send on friend house…
This is no nonsense, Beemster.
You had a very reasonable idea, but unfortunately, it doesn’t work that way.
I usually graft thick cuttings and sometimes flowers come out, which are automatically aborted, to encourage vegetative growth.
Haha, I thought you had some kind of inside track, even if it was just the language. The only time I convinced a wholesale grower to send me a few trees was similar: when I bothered him on the phone enough to annoy him into sending me some.
I suspect Jose might know somebody who works there too. He is one lucky man, both in friends and in cherry-growing location.
Hi Mitch.
There’s a nursery in your country that has interesting varieties (not just cherries), but it gives me a bad feeling.
I don’t know why, but I think it’s one of those nurseries that sells varieties that aren’t legitimate.
It’s a very strange nursery in that it offers a large number of plants that can’t survive in the local climate. They also have most of their varieties out of stock even during bareroot sale season.
However, I do have a friend who recently ordered an overpriced 1m apple tree from them so at least I know they exist. It’s too soon to tell if it’s the right variety but at least they are shipping healthy trees.
Thank you your help and I’m quite familiar with the nurseries in my country. Right now I’m mostly looking for rot resistant and late ripening varieties because the summer here is very dry so they don’t need to be as resistant to cracking or late brown rot.
If the varieties I wanted were available for sale in my country I would have had them by now. Of the ones I think are good I am only missing Justyna, Late Lory, Sandra and Irena. I have enough varieties that I don’t have to worry about pollination any more so I just focus on collecting the best ones for my climate.
I read that Vanda, Fabiola and Blaze Star are also suitable but I don’t know how delicious they are and I don’t have enough space for experiments. Perhaps you have tried them and can comment on their quality?