Last fall I did the same thing with my 40-yr-old Shiro…25ft down to 10 ft. It came roaring back in the spring! Still a tall monster!
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This year I removed a number of trees for a number of reasons.
Goldcot Apricot- 5 year old tree that blossomed out, leafed out, wilted and died.
Cox Orange Pippin- 6 year old apple that was girdled by mice or voles during the winter. Leafed out and failed to heal over, leaving the tree lacking nutrient flow. Rather than try a bridge graft, i decided to remove the entire tree and replace it.
Bing Cherry- 6 year old tree, struggled to put on growth and late freezed killed blossoms 3 years in a row.
Stella Cherry- Same story as Bing.
Santa Rosa Plum- Tree failed to thrive and was taking up room that was better utilized by something else.
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That too bad. Here in SE Ohio my HC trees are great!
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The nurseries around me get lots of HC apples. For me, it is a dog of a tree.
Perhaps it is the location or the actual tree. I have three other apple trees near it and they all do very well with lots of fruit on them all with the same rootstock.
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Thanks to @Galina and her husband who brought his chain saw. I removed two peach trees this morning.
One is Autumn Star. It has been much less productive after 10-11 years. Good fruit.
The other one was younger and multi grafted. It blocked sun from my raised bed. And the tree’s shape was lope-sided. I feel bad losing those grafts but not bad enogh to keep the tree.
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Dormant = scion wood.
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I wish I have thought of that but I did not have that forethought and I am too impulsive.
Also, after all these years of growing them, most good peaches taste similar. The goal is to plant a good one 
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Did you have to poison the stumps?
I put a fig tree just a few feet from my mom’s house and it is now huge. I lived there at the time and had planned to keep it in check, but that hasn’t worked out remotely. And she loves the figs.
There was a cherry seedling accross from it that had gotten out of hand. I should have nipped it in the bud, but eventually had to cut it close to the ground and poison the stump that was 7 or 8" in diameter and right next to the fence to the neighboring property.
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If you don’t kill the root they keep coming back. I just put used motor oil on the cut stump.
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Sometimes i have an elm grow right beside a tree i want. Can’t use tordan in my orchard or windbreak. The rabbits taught me years ago how to kill a tree. Don’t cut it down girdle it. In this case i used a chainsaw to girdle it to ensure i kill the roots also. Here is the elm i will remove from my windbreak. Go all the way around the bottom.
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I ring a lot of the big trees that are in spots I can’t just cut it down. Works better really. Takes a couple years, but it breaks down the small branches first working inward until there is nothing left. Nice and easy.
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You did it right by using an ax. I started out putting 2-3 chainsaw rings, which worked, but some were healing over. None have healed from the ax.
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Although Cummins sells different varieties of peaches, Indian Creek, Cummins’s retail component and pick-your-own orchard, does not label its pick-your-own peach trees. Since the apples are mapped and labeled by variety, I thought it was odd they didn’t bother to do the same for peaches. I think I’ve discovered the answer. They must think like you.
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I bought some Tordan and a generic version of this to use on all the darn honeysuckle growing all over my property. UNTIL I read it does more than just kill what you want to kill and kills things beyond the stunk/root of the item you put it on. I had not had an actual person I know confirm that until I read your post here. I am glad I did not use it. I had a lot of the honeysuckle growing around my pond area. It was suppose to just kill the roots of the item you wanted to get rid of, is what was reported to me when I bought it. Thanks for confirming what I had read elsewhere.
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That’s how I feel about yellow peaches. Good ones taste similar.
I think @Olpea may have a much better judgment on yellow peaches.
Other peaches like Indian Free or Indian Blood Cling are a different story.
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The problem is when it is applied to the stump the goal is to kill that stumps roots which it does. Sometimes 3 trees have overlapping roots any roots connected to that stump will die so the other 2 trees die. It can stay in the soil a long time. You might wonder what its purpose is which is fence rows, road sides, and easements etc.
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Re: Yellow peaches
I pretty much agree Tippy. There are some things like some peaches are prone to be mealy in hot weather, and some tend to be more sweet in their ripening windows than others. Early and mid season yellow peaches tend to be more juicy and less firm than later season peaches (which is why later season peaches are generally better for canning).
There are some sub acid peaches, which tend to have a milder flavor, and there are more intensely flavored peaches which taste more like a good nect (which is sort of the opposite of sub acid peaches).
I’ve grown over 100 varieties of yellow peaches and I’d say 90% of them taste pretty close (with the exceptions noted above). I’ve always said weather (i.e. how much rain/sun) crop load, and where the peach was picked on the tree has more of an impact on taste than the variety in 95% of yellow peaches.
Re: Removing Autumnstar peach trees
I seem to be noticing Autumnstars are a little more short lived than other varieties. I have a few Autumnstars at the orchard which were planted in 2012. They’ve played out and are breaking down pretty badly and really need to be removed, whereas most other trees planted in 2012 look like they have a few more years left.
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How far away was the tree from the raised planters @mamuang? I am putting some planters in front of new trees and trying to figure out a good distance.
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