Hello,
I did not want to hijack Uygi’s post about root-stocks so, I’ll start a new thread.
I started collecting the Ryobi One 18v cordless tools. They have a long history of keeping the current devices and batteries compatible with both new and old items.
I had a bunch of suckers around one of my apples. Usually, I clip them off at ground level every year.
This time I took the multi-tool (Oscillating Saw) and cut the suckers off a few inches below the soil line.
Yes,that trashed a $5 blade but, I now have about 3 dozen root-stocks (WITH ROOTS)
I call that a win - win situation.
I have also used the multi-tool to trim some problematic branches flush enough to the branch collar to regret buying that a long time ago!
My only complaint / warning is that it can generate heat if you are too aggressive.
That reminds me. A few years ago decided to take starts from timber bamboo and yellow can clumps. I used a sawzall to cut the roots and ground because no shovel would do it. Like your multitool, some blades were ruined. All of the bamboo clumps survived and grew into new clumps. The cost was a few dollars. The bamboo clumps might have cost far more at a nursery.
Back to rootstock suckers, I had a semidwarf (I think) Golden Delicious, unknown rootstock, that was unproductive and disease prone, so i cut it down. The next year the rootstock put out suckers a few feet from the old tree. I was still learning grafting, and thought, those are free, why not? and grafted some Northpole onto them. Those grew fast. A year later, I dug into the ground and cut them loose.
Last October I moved one again. Despite the limited roots, it survived. I let it make two apples this year. Next year it can make more.
In retrospect, I think I would have done better to use a known rootstock. I do that now. But at the time, it was just practice, and free. No multitool available to me, so I used a pruning saw to cut it free of the old roots.
@Munalos. I don’t recall seeing any other post like this. Like you I have several Ryobi tools and they have been very good tools at a reasonable price.
@Bear_with_me. I’m not sure if we are talking about the same tool but I have a cordless reciprocating saw and I’m thinking about using it to remove M111 suckers. These would make good rootstock but I don’t need any more. My soil has some rocks mixed in so I’m considering using the blade that cuts wood and nails. Do you have a preferred blade length?
I used the rectangular blade as I could plunge it into the soil and cut off the roots about 2 inches below the soil line. I use the circular blade for trimming branches if I have detailed work to do.
> … I have a cordless reciprocating saw and I’m thinking about using it to remove M111 suckers. These would make good rootstock but I don’t need any more. My soil has some rocks mixed in so I’m considering using the blade that cuts wood and nails. Do you have a preferred blade length?
A few inches is all you would need. No reason to go too deep. Your blade choice may be as simple as whatever is past its prime or whatever you have extras of.
@Auburn, actually I just looked at the web search and that Ryobi tool is much more compact. The sawzall is more of a demolition tool - I bough it to demolish my bathroom and kitchen which both needed new framing. It takes multiple blades. Cutting that bamboo was very hard work, even
with the sawzall and a shovel. What inspired me to post was in both cases it was using a multiple blade power tool to cut roots and make new plants. I suspect the Ryobi has a lot more finesse and would have the advantage of not tearing bark. With a lot of rocks in the ground, be carful. That sounds hazardous and there may be kickback.
Sawzall. I think I had a 6 inch metal and wood blade on it at the time. It was a few years ago, and I bent a couple of blades but was happy with the result.
I use , and have better luck cutting roots with a " old" set of loppers , ( not my good ones).
An old retired pruning saw also works well.
I use a sawzall with a long wood cutting blade bent slightly up at the end to cut bamboo stakes, flat to the ground, so as to not leave a dangerous stubb.
The slight bend at the end prevents the end of the blade from banging into the ground.
If I were to chose a blade for cutting roots in the soil , I would think a short, thick ,metal cutting blade would be best.
They will survive a small rock or two, on the cutting edge.
But if the blade hits a rock on the end, it’s likely to break .
