Sap Leakage on Royal Crimson Cherry

[MockY]

I’ve noticed that my Royal Crimson that I planted this spring is leaking sap in an alarming rate in many different places. The pictures are a bit old and the “cysts” are much larger now. It’s hard to tell whether external damage caused this as the sap is blocking the view. Since I’m ordering bare root trees for the spring right now, I figured maybe I need to replace this one. I really want an established Royal Crimson so it would be a blow to have to reboot again, but if this is a death sentence down the road, I’d rather do it now since it’s a new tree. It’s on Mazzard, though the rootstock does not seem to be affected.

So should I replace it or not, is the question?

[mroot]

The gumming can be caused by physical damage but I think in this case it is probably caused by bacterial canker. You can cut out the cankers and I think that is what you want to try doing initially. Long term you may want to look at planting cherries that have some resistance to the disease if it turns out to be common in your area. If you’re ordering a tree now I would choose one with resistance to canker.

Another thread talks about canker in detail. Look at the link to the post here:

Cherry / plum trees with disease. Can i save them?

That’s a lot of gumming. I would agree with Mamuang that it is probably canker although gumming can be caused by other things. If I were you I would think about cutting the cankers out during a dry period in the Summer. Here is two links on canker including some advice on how to deal with it. A link on gumming

I would look at that post then read the links in the post then finally review the other posts in the thread. That should give you a good foundation on how to deal with the issue and what would be the best course of action for you personally.

[MockY]

Granted, this is the only tree of this variety, but I have 4 other cherry trees in the same yard and none are showing any of these symptoms. I’ll go through all the resources you linked to and make a game plan.

[MockY]

I carved it all off. I should have done so long time ago as this “rot” was very deep in places. Hopefully the wounds heal up and cankers stay away from now on, though I doubt it. Turns out this tree is on Mazzard, and is the only tree in the orchard that is on this rootstock and subsequently the only one with cankers.
I ordered Royal Crimson on Maxma 14, something all my other cherries are on, so I hope I can finally enjoy this variety in a few years.

Should I let the existing tree be and see what happens? Should I plant the new tree in the same spot (probably not advisable). I’d hate to abandon this particular spot as it’s been tended to for 2 years and the soil fauna is great. I guess I can plant a different stone fruit in its place if need be.

[mroot]

I would keep the tree for a year and see what happens. I don’t think the primary problem is the rootstock. Mazzard and krymsk 5 are two of the better rootstocks when it comes to canker. Maxma 14 itself is a mazzard x mahaleb cross so it is actually similar to mazzard except smaller in size. It’s possible Royal Crimson is susceptible to canker but I haven’t seen any information on that. But Royal Crimson was introduced in 2016 so I doubt there much information available at this point on the weaknesses of Royal Crimson (if any).

Here is a link that compares many rootstocks:

pnw619.pdf

[MaracujA]

For the historical record, I’ll add: We planted two of these two years ago, one had the cankers quite badly; and then died. The other is still growing but it is weak and slow; it’s barely grown.

[MockY]

I planted a new Royal Crimson last season (fourth time I do so) about 30 yards away from my closest established cherry which happens to be a Royal Lee that I’d like to cross pollinate with, and it survived the year without any signs of disease. I just pruned it (which is basically cutting three branches at this stage) and still no signs of disease. This is the farthest I’ve come with this variety so I’m super stoked.
However, my little victory lap was short lived. I just now noticed that my Royal Lee has similar gumming. My heart dropped as this is by far my nicest looking cherry tree in the orchard and is 5 years now. I really don’t want this tree to succumb to anything as this is my pride and joy even though I have yet to get any fruit from it (it blooms profusely but any pollinator I’ve planted throughout these years have died early - i.e the battle with Royal Crimson).

So what approach am I taking you guys think? I’d be severely devastated if I lose this tree. The resources above doesn’t list any solution per se other than carve it off in the summer and hope for the best. That approach seems like definite doom.
If I scrape most of it off right now and treat it with Italian Dressing, would that perhaps help? Or should I wait until the intense sun and heat is available?

Attached is how it currently looks like

[mroot]

You want to cut the cankers out in the Summer not in February. Leave them for now. You want to cut them out when it’s hot and dry. Also I would move any pruning you do to the Summer as well. Since wounds can allow canker to enter the tree’s tissues.

I don’t think the Italian dressing spray you mentioned would be effective. Even professional synthetic sprays are of mixed effectiveness at best.

People on the forum have problems with canker but the trees survive. BlackGold gets canker (it’s susceptible) but people have success with it including me.

You said earlier in the thread you have more trees what are the cultivars and rootstocks for the trees you have? How many chill hours do you have at your location? I would think you would have a fair amount in the Sacramento area.

If chill hours aren’t a problem I would plant WhiteGold it’s canker resistant and self-fertile. You could also look at Corum, Regina, Rainier, Sam, and Sue. They have some resistance or tolerance to canker too. There are other trees that have resistance to canker as well.

[TreeHugger]

Hi !

Here is the consensual procedure among growers to cure bacterial canker, or rather, to help the tree to recover.

In june, when weather is hot and dry, first clean the wounds.

Then disinfect them with povidone iodine. It is absorbed by the tree and will kill bacterias and fungi spores around the wound.

Then make a thick mixture in a little container with 1 spoon of oxide copper powder, one spoon of organic liquid soap, 8 spoons of water.

Apply this mixture with a paintbrush on the wounds.

Obviously do not apply on the whole tree, especially in june or july, or the leaves would be burnt and it will defoliate.

Feed and water the tree, so that it is fit and can recover.

Mr Root is right, it is now advised to prune in summer when there is no risk of contamination.

If pruning in winter, paint each cut with copper oxyde mixture.

If not used completly, the copper mixture keeps its efficiency. It dries, just add water and stir.

Throughout wet and cold months, you usually have to re apply the mixture in small angles between branches, where humidity remains and creates an entry for bacterial canker.

Do not close the wounds with sealant after copper, let it open in the warm air.

Sorry, it is not well structured, I tried to not forget anything.

These advices are based on scientific research and best procedures. Not on superstition like moon influence or manure filled corns.

I do believe you can cure your tree.

Here’s what I would do : Now that the wounds are clean, treat them. Then let the tree lives its life till summer before doing anything else. Of course, feed it well.

I wish your tree a good recovery !