That is one of the other things I’ve read about in some blog posts for arbors. I know there are some threads here on brambles that mention some very vigorous varieties that could be considered.
If you are willing to forgo the edibility requirement, bignonia capreolata or another crossvine, but if you would like something that is pleasantly scented you could plant flowering jasmine.
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Am curious what flowering jasmine (fragrant) survives Zone 7 winters? I tried Confederate Jasmine but it konked out in winter.
Will second the motion for Crossvine, a little known native vine that helps hummingbirds.
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Kiwi is very easy to grow on a trellis, so far as I know there are no real pest or infections you would expect. Most varieties produce very tasty fruits
Dennis
Kent, wa
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Hops , it’s a nice vine if given its own place.
I would not recommend planting it near pathways.
It is Very scratchy, on bare skin. Can burn like fire on a hot day ,brushing against forearm , shoulder , etc.
It can be very unruly,growing a foot or more a day.
( ie. hanging out in the path )
Not a good choice near pathways. I have firsthand experience with this in several locations.
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@hambone, it isn’t jasmine, but Carolina Jessamine (Gelsemium sempervirens) is fragrant and is a native vine hardy in Zone 7. It’s highly poisonous even in small quantities - definitely not edible.
Jasminum officinale is supposed to be hardier than Confederate Jasmine, but I haven’t tried growing it personally.
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They are not evergreen vines, but my mother would be suggesting moonflower and/or morning glories. I’ll see if I can determine which variety of jasmine she grows. It has a very pleasant scent during it’s very long bloom period.
Muscadines. I like the bronze varieties the best. Easiest vine to grow.
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Curious to ask any grape growers here. Is black rot avoidable by keeping the vines dry? The location I have in mind is largely under eaves, or could be.
In theory, yes. A lack of water would prevent the pycnidia (simple spores) of the black rot from getting a foot hold. Ascospores (more durable, overwintering spores) from nearby trees could maybe infect some leaves with a strong wet breeze in the spring. You could remove those leaves when/if you see infection (brown lesion with black spots aka pycnidia in center).
Overall, sanitation would be critical. You’d want to rake away all fallen leaves after fall frosts and remove any “mummies” (dried up grape rachises). Arbors don’t lend themselves to great sanitation but keeping it dry while still getting full sun is a big step in the right direction.
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