Selecting rootstocks for espalier

Thank you for posting this, Holly, and my condolences on the Opalescent. Hope the Ashmead’s bounces back nicely for you.

I’ve gone back through your earlier reports as well, and they’ve been extremely useful, especially in terms of the way you worked out the infrastructure of your espalier set-up (so to speak). Really looks terrific, and I look forward to future editions!

I’ve also got an update in terms of rootstock selection. I think I’m going to go with G 935, which seems to be getting very positive reviews from those who’ve tried it here, and the accounts of the spreading growth habit seem to make it a good fit for espalier treatment. Maybe a little more vigor than I need, strictly speaking, but I’m hoping that it will give the trees a little more ability to deal with the setbacks that will no doubt be inflicted upon them by the environment and also, er, me.

Thanks for your help, everyone!

Just got started on my apple espalier yesterday. I have it surrounding a rectangular (30x50ft) vegetable garden. The rootstocks will be a mixture of self grafted MM111’s and seedlings. I expect high vigor and anticipate multiple prunings per season. Main concerns for me are drought tolerance, and bouncing back from gopher attacks. Tops are low chill, precocious apples, eg: Anna, Dorsett Golden. Gordon, Ein Shemer, etc.

anna is quite hardy and fruitfu here in the desert, but seems to be a magnet for borers.
hopefully your area is not infested by these invisible vermin.
extremely disappointing after diligently training your laterals for several years-- and they start withering away :weary:

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OK I’ll keep an eye out for bark entry sites. I don’t think they’re a problem here – I’d have already observed them before on other Anna trees.

that’s good news

Hello. I am wondering how your espalier are doing several years later? I am in CT zone 7 and just took out some apple trees that had gotten too large for their location and plan on replacing them with Calville Blanc espalier in the spring. I am reading discordant advice about recommended rootstock, and like you, would like them to have a span of approx 7’, and four cordons reaching about 7’ tall. I am wondering how your trees did scale-wise and if you are happy with your rootstock/vigor selections? Thank you.

Jmorvan, I wasn’t involved in the original thread, but I have apple and pear espaliered in 5b. You mention a span of 7’. Do you mean left and right of the main tree, giving 14’? If so I’d go with m-111 or G-890. If you mean a total of 7’ per ‘tree’, you need something much more dwarfing, because you’ll be planting 7’ on centers. My trees are on a 12 foot spacing.

Thank you. I meant 3’6” for the side branches, 7’ overall. I have 21 feet for the whole span, and was intending three trees. My previous trees were on M111 rootstock and I was surprised at the vigor differential. Ashmead’s Kernel became enormous in an area where I intended a dainty 12’ tree. I simply could not handle propounding it myself. The Calville had a more restrained growth habit, so I may need to account for that. I do want the overall espalier to be about 7’ tall and be happy at its scale.

I may also introduce one Api Etoile tree, but only see this for sale on M111…

I have no personal experience with full dwarfing rootstocks. Although I do have some on G-11, I think it is much too vigorous for your situation. I have Calville Blanc and it seems to have as much vigor as any other variety. I would think you’ll have to research and (quickly now before it’s gone) order your rootstock, then do your own grafting. Otherwise you won’t find your varieties on that rootstock, Getting grafting scions is easy on this website or commercially, Get double the rootstock and graft two trees for each one you want, to allow for grafts not taking. Grafting apple is easy don’t be intimidated by it. Then later onn sell or give away your extra trees. Are my thoughts.

Thank you again. I am now leaning towards a g.210 rootstock based on availability and your advice. Do you know if a 2-year whip is too mature already to work with for a cordon? It is the only size I see available at the moment.

I don’t see a problem with a two year old whip. Set up your trellis first. Then cut the whip height to the first level.

Thank you!!!