I have been scouring this forum and the internet for strategies to get my trees to fruit faster and I thought it would be great if we had a post that summarized all of the techniques that are scattered throughout our collective minds. Here are some of my notes, and as they say, the best way to get the right answer on the internet is to give the wrong answer, so here it goes :
1. Use a dwarfing and precocious rootstock.
2. Bend branches horizontal or more to encourage fruiting.
3. Shorten the juvenile stage of the tree by allowing the central leader to grow uninterrupted until the number of nodes are reached to reach the adult reproductive phase (122 internodes for applies)
https://www.yvapplebreeders.com/information/shortening-the-juvenile-phase/
The long juvenile stage of apple seedlings, during which they will not flower, is the main cause of the extended generation times in apple breeding. Field-grown apple seedlings rarely flower before they are three years old and often not until they are aged eight years or more.
When growing seedlings the aim is to encourage them to pass through the juvenile phase of development as quickly as possible, and then to flower.
Zimmerman (1973) observed that the lowest bud on a seedling indicating the transition point from the juvenile to the adult phase occured at a height of 1.8 - 2 m on crab apple seedlings grown under greenhouse conditions. However, stage of development is better measured in terms of the number of nodes produced (i.e. points on the stem from which a leaf grows) than by height of the seedling. Accordingly (e.g. Hanke et al. 2007), the transition points from juvenile to adult vegetative and from adult vegetative to adult reproductive phases occur, respectively, around nodes 77 and 122 on the leading shoot.
Most of the traditional techniques for inducing and increasing flowering are associated with retarding vegetative growth of the shoot. Treatment of apple seedlings in this way is counter-productive until the adult vegetative phase is reached. During the actual juvenile phase the aim is to reach around 77 nodes on the leading shoot as quickly as possible, thereby completing this phase. The techniques listed below for reducing the time to flowering are compiled from Janick et al. (1996) and Hanke et al. (2007).
Actions effective during the juvenile phase:
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Selection and propagation of naturally occurring early flowering genotypes or mutants.
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Rapid growth of seedlings from germination to transition to the āadult reproductive phaseā at 122 nodes.
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Exposure of seedlings to a longer growing season (increases growth).
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Treatments increasing apical dominance of the leading shoot (increases growth).
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Actions effective during and/or after the adult vegetative phase:
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Treatments that reduce apical dominance in the shoot can promote flower formation.
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Inhibition of vegetative growth by trunk ringing, scoring, bark inversion, root pruning, horizontal shoot orientation, and shoot bending.
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Defoliation.
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Application of certain plant growth regulators/hormones.
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Grafting seedling scions onto dwarfing rootstocks.
4. Notching,use hacksaw or pruning knife or shears to cut through bark and cambium above bud which you want to turn into a branch or bud /reduce apical dominance/encourage growth or below a branch to encourage better fruiting.
http://www.umassfruitnotes.com/v75n3/a3.pdf
Heading [the leader] and notching resulted in greater total 10 Fruit Notes, Volume 75, Summer, 2010 shoot length than the control. Only notching increased the number of shoots, and only heading [the leader] resulted in fewer spurs (NJ only). BA application increased total shoot length and number. In the year after treatment, heading [the leader] resulted in more fruit than the control but did not differ from notching. This result is counter-intuitive. Overall, among the mechanical treatments, notching was the best treatment to improve branching and BA application resulted in the greatest number and length of shoots compared to no BA application. A combination of notching and BA application, or BA application alone (single or possibly multiple applications) may be the best options for improving branching in poorly branched trees.
Other Strategies
https://www.houzz.com/discussions/1506899/high-intensity-pear-orchard
1.) Really tight densities are being used:
a.) I thought that the 2.5ā spacing Scott suggested was tight, but these guys are going even tighter at 1-2.5ā. Super Spindle spacing seems to be in the 1-2ā range (page 39 in the link from #2).
b.) The super spindle planting seems the most productive (in terms of total pounds), but it seems to reduce fruits size to a noticeable degree (over medium density plantings of 4-5ā).
c.) There is even a double-row spaced at 12ā x 4ā x 2.5ā (last two rows in Table 2 on the last page). This article also has a nice list of differences between apple and pear growth habits.
2.) There are some pretty hardcore methods which growers are using to keep the trees growth down in such tight plantings. This page uses flash, but it has a great quantity of info- see page 26 for details:
a.) Branch bending- the one item in this list Iām comfortable withā¦
b.) Breaking branches- after harvest (before the energy has been transferred to the roots) snapping off upright growth with bad ratios/angles. This increases light penetration and causes the tree to spend additional energy to heal the wound, than if it was just cut (ouchā¦).
c.) Stem incisions- using a chain saw to cut 1/4 to 1/2 of the trunk in multiple locations (spaced at least 30cm apart) to disrupt sap flow.
d.) Root pruning- cutting both the small and large roots. Another article mentioned that generally one side of the treeās roots is pruned at a time and it is not generally done in concert with stem incisions (but incisions or root pruning can be done with branch breaking).