Back in May 2023, I planted a Zestar and a Scarlet Crush apple tree (dwarf trees) in my backyard from Stark Bros. Nursery. Despite watering both adequately (or so I thought), the Zestar appeared to die and the Scarlet Crush would spur some leaves on its small branches before dying soon after and regrowing slightly. I’ll definitely replace the Zestar soon, but would it be better to replace the Scarlet Crush tree as well so both can become better established in winter dormancy without the heat stress? I’m in East Tennessee, Zone 7a.
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It’s a little unclear if the Scarlet Crush is dead or alive.
If there’s any question about it I would replace it.
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I am in southern middle TN z7a… that is a NovaMac on M7 that i grafted last spring and planted this spring.
I watered it once when i planted it.
I did add more compost and composted wood chips early summer… and will add more soon… they breakdown pretty quick.
My two apple trees started this spring both still have lots of leaves and have grown well this season.
Especially on new starts… i would recommend a very generous layer of compost and wood chips.
Keep them mulched well in those early years… and it will reduce or eliminate the need to water.
Works for me here in TN z7a.
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You have just provided “Exhibit 1” on why it’s better to plant in FALL, (or even winter, or very early spring) in Zone 7. 
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Late May or early May? Fairly common issue with places like Stark Bros. They dig trees in Fall and then over winter in cold storage. Trees lose some viability when kept that long (6-8 months) in cold storage, no matter what they tell you.
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I planted these trees in late May, received on the 20th, planted on the 21st. Based on what you stated, it sounds like it’s just best to order them in the fall right after they’ve been dug up to increase the likelihood of survival.
I believe it does help with survivability in your instance. Not something we would recommend in colder climates. Or find a nursery like us that digs in late Winter.
How would you suggest most easily replicating the way you installed the cattle panel structure in your photo? (Specific measurements/dimensions of cattle panel, posts, etc.)
Cattle panel is pretty easy to work with as long as you have a decent tool to cut it with. I got this tool at TSC… same place I get the panels, tposts, uposts, etc.
In the panels i have… they come in 16 ft lengths x 50 inch tall.
Each rectangle is approx 6 inch x 8 inch.
One simple way to do it… cut out 4 pcs… 24 inch x 50" and simply wire them together.
I have seen some people on youtube using like hog rings to join panel pieces together…
Sometimes… i simply bend them into the shape i want (circle, square)… and then you just have one place to join it together.
They are a little stiff and dificult to bend… but hey… i am a 62 year old grandpa… and I can still do it.
I make all kinds if cages and trellises using cattle panel. Works great.
The ones around my fruit trees are more for buck rub protection… than for protection from browsing. I have lots of deer here… but they rarely browse on my fruit trees… but bucks will sure give them heck when the rut is on.
My crabapple in the back yard has survived 3 serious thrashings.
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Thanks! I appreciate your suggestion!
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