G-969 is a newer rootstock that seems to potentially have a lot going for it. Apparently it gets a little bigger than G-41, has the good qualities of G-41, and several online articles indicate it has the potential to produce a free standing tree. That would be about an ideal rootstock for me if staking is not needed.
Page 31 of this pdf makes an interesting observation showing how different rootstocks absorb nutrients based on different PH levels of the soil. It seems to indicate that G-969 actually performed better at a lower PH level which would be great for me if true with my 5.0 Georgia clay:
I have 10 of the G-969ās on order with Cummins for spring delivery, guess I will report back in a few years with some results.
Iām buying trees not stocks so donāt really have much of an option, but even if I was buying a bundle of rootstocks I might get MM111. Its been tested heavily in the US for many years and is very reliable. I had too many issues with the ālatest and greatestā rootstocks over the years.
I mostly started out with M111 and if I was starting over I would still use it. My system is different in that I use a Bud9 interstem. It is amazing how much the interstem tames the top while providing a well anchored tree. These trees are about three years and it is early to determine long range how they will perform.
For vigorous growers, that dwarfing interstem is very helpful (Fuji, Jonagold, Baldwin, Winesap, etc.), but I wouldnāt grow the likes of Goldrush, Ark Black, or even Honeycrisp and Pink Lady and Yellow Delicious on it.
I believe in balancing rootstock to variety and site. But Iām not growing apples commercially, and nowadays thatās mostly done on bushes. Thatās what makes the Cornell rootstocks potentially so useful, because those bushes are easily killed by fire-blight on traditional rootstocks.
from what i remember reading it somewhere. You burry the MM111/B9 graft union. So the B9 can root a bit.
This supposedly would counter the MM111 suckering to much.
I have not buried my MM111/B9 interstem treeās, but the graft union is close to ground level. So easy to bury later on if need be.
I have not experienced suckering problems. But the trees are still young.
A disadvantage to me would be. That if you bury the interstem graft union. You loose some of the wooly apple aphid resistance. Since the B9 roots are not resistant.
I am very curious if anyone tried the Geneva series as interstem. Unfortunately hard to get here.
Some of those G series are both dwarfing and WAA resistant. To me would be an ideal interstem for MM111. G41 might be a good. But i think i read somewhere it could have weak graft union when young.
I have quite a few M111/G41 interstems. My area doesnāt receive the intensity of wind as some who have experienced G41 graft union failures. Fingers crossed that it wonāt ever be a problem for my treesā¦ I use about 12" of G41 interstem and then bury 4 to 6" of it so the G41 will root as well. Most are still supported but Iām hoping to remove that in the coming years and they be both free-standing, and only somewhat larger than a tree on G41 alone would have grown toā¦
Thanks for the update. I was not really sure how the interstem would do if fully buried. I had read that is you buried the grafted rootstock it turned into a full size tree. I have never covered a grafted rootstock so I have never experienced what actually happens.
Good to have that info, thanks.
I have Edelborsdorfer growing on a G.11/M.111 interstem. I did bury a few inches of the G.11 portion. This year will be its third season. Seems poised for some decent growth.
I have a couple of G11/M111 interstem apple varieties. I am not impressed with them. Too scrawny and too little fruit. I am taking them out this spring and replacing them with something else.