Hi, all
This is a great topic as I am also planning to install drip line and started gathering info. I have two separate areas: one is veggies garden and another is fruit tree area. Can these two area use the same water hose/faucet at the beginning with same regulator etc, then use Y split to these two areas?
Thanks
It looks like the company you linked only offers shutoff valves for the mainline, not ones that can go at the connecting end of the tape or emitter tubing.
The drip tape connection to the main line/orchard tubing are the valves. Tape x 1/4" Barb with Valve — DripWorks.com
Yes.
Thanks. I missed it the first time!
Ordered some stuff.
One concern I have…my hose runs downhill. Anytime I turn the hose on, I have about a minute of sputter. I assume air is getting in there, and then rising to the highest point (right to the spigot).
A. Will this harm the drip lines, or make them take a lot longer to put out sufficient water (due to the reduced flow taking even longer to flush out the air?)
B. What can I do about it?
It happens all the time for me and hasn’t hurt anything, if there is a lot of air because the pipes ran dry and it is taking a long time I just bleed it off by opening a drip tape valve that doesn’t have a line attached. There are also air bleed valves, but I don’t know how to set them up.
On my container plant irrigation setup I use one of these tape loc x flush end fittings and the air blows out before it closes. If you got a filter and it has a male hose thread flush valve I suppose you could just attach the cap there…
Can you bury drip tape in the soil? If not, can it be covered with mulch? I am going to install it on the flower bed and want to minimize visibility.
Yes, when it gets laid down by a tractor it is about 3-6" deep. It makes is a little less easy to find leaks, basically you wait for wash outs or wet spots. Voles and things do occasionally bite it or it rubs on a rock expanding or contracting or something, but I’m talking about miles of the stuff. It does move around a little when on the surface because of the expansion and might need to be repositioned a few times before the crop fills in a little on narrow rows for things like lettuce.
One more question. I am looking at the kit that includes 50’ of main line(minimum size roll ) and 200’ of drip tape. It includes 10psi pressure regulator. I guess the pressure is calculated for 200’ length of emitters. My bed is 15’X7’ and I need like 15’ of main line and just 70-100’ of drip line. Will it create too much pressure for the length of the lines? 10psi is the smallest regulator they have…
Pressure regulators are not that complicated, I don’t know exactly how they work, but they just reduce the pressure from high to low. Nothing to worry about 
10 psi is definitely not too much pressure, a higher psi may just deliver more gpm than stated.
I thought about adding one of these.
However, I wonder if it’ll even work. I have 150 feet of hose running about 35 feet down hill to the garden. Which makes me wonder if the gravity pressure, even after the spigot is off (with just the remaining water in the hose) will be greater than the amount needed to trigger the valve to open.
So I ended up buying some soaker drip line with 6 inch spacing as well. I am finding that it’s only putting about half as much water out as its rated for.
It’s supposed to be 0.8 GPH, it’s more like 0.5.