How far are the runs going to be? Drip tape can water a much longer row. It is cheaper on a length basis but you will need a pressure regulator, filter and some other stuff depending on what you want to do.
I’ve only bought a few things from here but they have a calculator. If you want a big roll of drip tape try and find a produce supply place near you.
I’m assuming from the word “hoosier” in your name you’re in Indiana?
I’m in Maryland. Like anything in the eastern half of the US, our climates both probably fall into the same basic category:
On paper, our average rainfall is sufficient, but during any given growing season, we can have a deluge, or a drought, sometimes/often both in the same season!
It’s also really hard to predict what’s going to happen. In any given summer, I can look at the forecast for the week ahead, and see a lightning bolt on four out of the next seven days. In some cases, that next week will bring 3 inches of rain. In other cases, we get 0.03”.
The ends of longer runs deliver less water. But 50’ isn’t that long, I’ve never used soaker hose though.
I live near the border of DE and PA, hoosier banana is just a folk name for pawpaw. The weather is really unpredictable, having irrigation can make a big difference, especially right after you transplant and might have to give them just a little water a few times a week in the summer.
Pretty simple, and since the tape is so much cheaper you can put out a line for each row and not have to move a soaker hose around and beat up plants in the process. Get a bunch of couplers to make repairs as well.Tape Loc Coupler — DripWorks.com
You can get little plastic pieces to close the drip tape ends, but you can also just tie them in a knot at the end or fold it in half and feed the fold into the open end to pinch it off.
Half inch orchard tubing should have no trouble supplying several 50’ runs of 5/8" drip tape. I was running 4 200’ lines at a time on 1/2" tubing last year.
OK, so I guess the filter is just for particulates, probably a good idea. The water here is soft so I’ve never had an issue, but they recommend drip tape with a high flow rate to reduce clogging with hard water.
How hard is “hard” water? Our water is naturally acidic and soft, but we have a neutralizer (it uses calcite) which raises the ph, but I believe also increases the hardness. Yet we don’t have a water softener, and we don’t get typical “hard water” issues with our bath and kitchen fixtures.
I did precisely that at my previous place. I rented a trencher and ran a regular line (350 ft to the garden). The trench was done quickly at the lowest depth for the trencher, about 8 inches or so. I had two gardens, one only 50 ft from the house, so there was a branch-out at 50 ft. At both gardens I had drip lines. I did not want soaker hoses because my tomatoes would get wet and die of disease. I still used it the way you describe, water only when needed. Voles heavily tunneled in the trench every year but they did not chew the line. One thing I want to say, drip lines have become much easier to assemble and disassemble from 18 years ago.
The 10 psi one I linked to says it can handle 90 psi at the inlet. You will gain some pressure in the hose going down hill too, roughly 1 psi per foot elevation. It will produce 10 psi as long as the pressure is above 10 and below 90 as far as I know.
Each line of drip tape will have its own valve, so it is just a matter of opening or closing them. You should walk through when you turn them on regularly to check for leaks and make sure the ends are getting enough pressure.