Hi, I am working trying/dreaming of establishing an orchard, a few acres. I intend to be commercial production if at all possible and I have spared a nice corner for fun projects, fruits of any kind etc …
My soil are clay, more specifically BntaaB amd MoB. Both are 2-6 % slopes. I cant find any better definition of these soils other than soil map website, which also mentions high quality soil for farmland.
I am afraid of root rot as it seems to be enemy #1 for plants/trees unless they are wetland trees. After the snow melt, I could see small patches of water after 1-2 days , it was palm size less than 1" deep (basically the tractor tire marks were filled with water pools).
Will this stagnant water cause issues with the trees or other crops? Now land was used for Corn and soybean. How much water might an orchard need? I am thinking persimmons , quince, raspberries or cherries. We have about 40 inch of rain a year, considerable comes in spring and lots in winter with the snow. Zone 6 , Michigan. Will this water be enough or I will need a small river for irrigation?
What do the abreviations stand for. I think the first one is Blount loam maybe? You can look them up on a number of soil sites. I like the one from UC Davis. Here is a direct link to information on Blount soils and below is the data from the soil tests on various samples of the type. It is interesting in that it looks acid near the surface, but get alkaline quicky as you go down. It also notes in the description that they are “somewhat poorly drained” which sounds like what you are seeing. 40" of rain should be enough to not need to water much if at all once the plants are established, but you may still need some irrigation if you have periodic droughts.
Hey fellow michigander! I know some farms around here put drainage pipes in to drain wet spots. I have one around my cottage which is set up to drain into a sub pump well. Not sure how farmers do it? My sub pump drains into the st Clair river.
At first for sure you’ll have to water. MSU offers assistance. They may be able to point you in the right direction. They should offer advice on drainage and irrigation.
The question is, are you planning on planting trees to grow fruit for your own use or to sell. For your own use you can defeat the drainage issue by planting trees on individual mounds or raised rows. The raised rows would work for commercial production as well. Drainage systems are expensive to install and require maintenance more complicated than keeping higher ground higher.
Where exactly in Michigan are you? I am also in Michigan and the snow melt combined with rain at that time was certainly the wettest time in my memory. My sump pump was running more than it ever has.
If you are anywhere near me then it may have been the same for you.
If you are considering a commercial orchard then I would consider consulting with experts. I would start with Derek Plotkowski from the Michigan State fruit and nut production extension.
Commercial or private orchard he will help you determine the suitability of your site. He has helped me.
Good info Paul. I have found drainage systems easy to install and maintain. You could easily do it yourself.
Consider shallow wells for a water source. Again one can put these wells in easily. I have put in about a dozen of them. In the south on large properties, owners with lots of grass use them. Not just for commercial use.
I want more information about digging a shallow well. My orchard is about 150 yards away from the house and Im tired of dragging long hoses. It would be so nice to have a water source close to the orchard. Any resources on this?
Thanks
I dont have any resources. I learned about it by fire. My cottage has no city water available.
Some have deep wells but most have shallow wells. I had a few over the years. Around here at 15 to 30 feet down you can hit water. You drill by hand and it takes about 20 minutes. Keep adding six feet of pipe to an end point tip. Pump to check for water. The local plumbing stores loans out the hand pump and turning handle needed.
Those stores have all the info you need. Like how deep you need to go for the area. We used 3/4 inch pipe to PVC (black) to a jet pump. Jet pumps cost from 200 for Chinese pump to 800 for American made. So you need power to the pump. It’s not cheap but way cheaper than a deep well. Some add a pond to the area mostly needed for fire control. No city water in the area so fire department needs a source of water in case of fire.
I decided for my water source to go directly into the Saint Clair river. It’s about 800 feet from my house. I dug a trench and laid down pipe with a machine meant to lay underground sprinkler systems. Mine is 740 feet long to my jet pump. I back fill first with a sub pump to prime jet pump which has a pressurized tank. Works fantastically.
I used 300 foot sections of 3/4 inch black PVC. My line is about 20 years old now and has never leaked so far as I knock on wood. I winterize the system each year. As I have no winter access. I can’t go back until the ferry runs start in April. I currently have my boat in storage else I could go there now.
Check with locals and surrounding plumbing stores to see if shallow wells are feasible in your area.
You can’t do a shallow well unless you have a shallow water table. Even then the substrate must be suitable. In other words, the material containing the ground water must give up the water easily. Lots of water can be pumped out of gravel. A little out of sand. Almost none out of silt or clay.
Very few areas have the conditions needed for a productive shallow well.
our well is a shallow water well even though we are on clay. after you go down more than a few feet you will hit shale ledge. this is what contains the water. our wells 50ft deep. most years its more than half full. most of n. Maine and eastern Canada has a very high water table…
Thanks for that info. I live in such an area and assumed it was more wide spread. Mt Clemons used to be known for its sulfur baths. Babe Ruth was very fond of them. Lots of photos of him in Mt Clemons. Ground water is very shallow here. Since the OP is in Michigan, I would check as it may be possible.
My point remains, the water isn’t coming from the clay.
I had a place in Ca with water at 3ft in winter and 6ft in summer. It was in the flood plain of the Kings river. Nothing but rocks and sand above bedrock. But I’d guess that less than 1% of CA is thusly endowed. Probably way less than 1%.
The ag wells in CA are mostly pumping from 300 to 1000ft. In west Texas it’s mostly 200-500ft. It’s not economically feasible to pump water from deeper than 500ft except for high value crops.
