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I started them in march last year and they calloused within a month or so. You don’t need them to root, just not rot, and begin the root initiation. I think you’d be fine to begin them now
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normally ground would be frozen solid and snow on the ground right now, its been unusually warm, so I started mine early. Im about a month ahead of where I normally would be I think. The sooner I get my cuttings in the ground, the better chance they will root I think.
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I always have a few too many things rooting (or testing whether they will root). Apart from dozens of avocado cuttings in every stage of the rooting process, I’ve currently got some che, a few types of citrus, a couple figs, mulberry, and a loquat cutting, just to name a few.
The loquat has been in soil since late December, no sign of desiccation yet, and might be showing a hint of a new flush starting:
The che (for an impenetrable hedge planting) is scionwood that I chopped up a bit and did fig-pop style under a glass jar for humidity, stuck on heat in late December and just now starting to bud out:
I’ll remove the jar soon, but not quite yet. Here’s what they look like covered:
Here’s a TDE3 (aka Tahoe Gold®) cutting that’s been on heat since November and looks to be budding out (recently graduated from it’s jar):
The most recent additions to the avocado cutting area are from tree #311, one of my favorite trees from last year’s seedlings, with tiny leaves, a nice growth habit, and no leaf damage from 30°F at barely a year from seed. It is being distributed to a project member this weekend, so I took cuttings a few weeks ago, so that more members can get clones of this tree next year. You can see photos of the ortet in the linked tree profile, these cuttings were the shoots you see around the base in recent photos, so I expect most of them to root eventually:
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@swincher, sometimes I wish you didn’t live on the entire other side of the seattle metro area, I would love to hang out and talk plants in person. 
Forgot about the blueberries. I find they root so easy if I set them and forget them in the fall at leaf drop. I have given away so many blueberries cuttings I cannot guess to the count. They are also the first to sell out at the PTA plant sale every spring.
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So that’s three or four months to root for that mandarin cutting?
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If it has actually rooted, I’m not really sure until either roots appear at the bottom or growth is vigorous, but for other types of citrus I’ve tried (trifoliate, yuzu, sudachi, a few others), I usually only see new growth after roots have formed.
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What is done with that?I wonder if it’s the same variety,that has been sprouting from the stump,since being cut down here,about ten years ago.
If I can get them to root, Ill plant them to produce nectar for my bees. Supposedly bees like them.
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That’s impressive. I’ve tried once to root dormant blueberry cuttings with no luck. Do you treat the cuttings with anything before sticking them into the soil? What percent takes to you typically get?
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do you have any northern hardy blueberries, like zone 4?
Almost all, unless I get older woody stems. I don’t use any hormone besides IMO microbes grown in leaf litter. I never use sterile starter soil, rough and raw bed soil. Exactly like those redwoods were potted. The new growth is what roots easily. Stan, the pears and plums are starting to wake. Thanks again. 
I wish I knew, they were all here when I bought the house. The previous owner said they were planted in 1980 when our house was built. There are eight of them and they’re all different size and flavor. 4 stay short, and 4 get step stool high. I’ve added some new modern cultivars in a different part of my yard. But the ones I usually take cutting from are the big old ones. They are in the floodplain of the creek that bisects my lot. They get silted over and are underwater at least 3/4 of the winter rainy months. I never cut them back once in 17 years until this year. Lucky 18 ha. Last year was the first year they were not brimming with fruit. I cut them back about 80%.
I had a lot of extra cutting this year because I felt like I was committing a crime tossing all those away. I usually just do a couple pots, like 10 sticks. I did a couple trays this year.
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I started some hardier pomegranates (mostly for potted ornamentals), gooseberries, currants, jostaberries, hardy kiwi, and figs on 03/15. Dipped in rooting hormone and placed into a mix of peat and perlite under a humidity dome near my veg grow lights.
All the ribes leafed out quickly but the gooseberries dessicated before rooting (still possible they push some buds I’m not seeing). After just over 4 weeks, the black currants, jostas, and white/pink currants rooted pretty well. Gooseberries really do seem much harder to root than other ribes.
The kiwis and poms probably haven’t rooted yet but have lots of healthy leaves and no signs of dessication yet,but since these usually take 6-8 weeks I’ll probably prune some leaves to reduce dessication.
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Have any of those scrawny blueberry cuttings I sent rooted yet, Derek? Just curious. I might try that, but this isn’t a good year for it.
It looks like they are going to be a fail, they arent looking good and should be doing something by now… Im thinking blueberry are easier to root from softwood cuttings. 
Sounds like my attempts to root honeyberries. Oh well, nothing ventured, nothing gained. On the other hand, I just poked currant and gooseberry sticks into the ground in the fall, and nearly every one rooted.
I tried rooting pomegranate, fig and persimmon cuttings.
Except persimmon everything rooted.
I’ve just transplanted my josta and green blackcurrant cuttings into a veg patch for the season. Taken in the beginning of march. I normally stick all my currant cuttings without hormone straight between my perennial veg or overwinter garlic/onions, but I only had a few of each.
Currants are probably one of the easiest when you are starting off and need a good start.
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