There are many reasons to grow certain fruit trees or fruit - bearing plants in containers. I grow to stretch my zone, for extra TLC, growing young trees faster before planting in-ground, for protection from the coldest winter freezes (less cold-hardy figs) or to protect from winter rain - borne disease (peaches). Apricots almost always bloom before the last frost here, then the frost kills the non-dormant tree. Container growing may allow for moving the tree into protection if a late frost is predicted, and keeping the tree in North - facing shade to delay coming out of dormancy. PixiCot is sold as genetic dwarf, so I am giving it a try.
Now that summer is close, it’s important to think about helping container fruits grow and thrive, and most importantly, not die. The main issues are keeping them from drying out, and giving them the nutrition and water they need.
Each climate and locale will have a different situation. I thought it might be helpful to have a post where people could provide their insights and experiences.
Some treatments that I think are helpful -
In late Winter / early Spring, prune roots and tops for compact size. Compact size is intended to reduce water evaporation and dehydration.
Protect from drying wind, by placement in a sheltered spot, preferably with full sun.
Use container materials that insulate well. I like wood for this. I line with plastic. I’m frugal, and use woven plastic sheeting cut from used dog-food bags.
For plastic containers, use a reflective aluminum foil wrap. I measured temperatures in the soil of fig trees that were grown in black plastic tree pots, on a hot summer day. The soil was about 115 F with the ambient temp in the 90s. Wrapping with aluminum foil, shiny side out, the soil was close to the ambient temp, more than 15 degrees cooler. The magnitude of effect will depend on the container size, the soil or growth medium, watering habits, and temperature. But my experience is, the foil wrap can save the trees on a hot sunny day. I haven’t measured water requirement. It stands to reason that hotter soil increases the water requirement. Last year I wrapped some with a bubble-wrap that has a reflective mylar silvered surface. That is sold at Home Depot - I think in the water heater wrap section. I think the main thing is the reflective surface, but bubble wrap might help too.
Mulch. Mine are mulched with about 2 inches of light-colored arborist trimmings. Some fig hobbyists like white limestone gravel - more reflective, and provides calcium needed for growing figs.
Watering. I find I need to water every day. That could be challenging if you have a water restriction. The shiny covering and mulch reduce the water demand.
For soil, I use commercial organic mix - sold here as “Black Magic”. It claims to be water- holding. The mix seems fairly loose. I don’t know if water-holding granules are beneficial or not. Haven’t tried them so far.
These plants depend entirely on artificial sources of water and nutrients. My in-grown garden is organic. For container plants, I use Miracle Grow 18:18:21 for Tomatoes, at a rate of 1/2 teaspoon per 2 gallons, with almost every watering or every other watering. Very dilute, but often. For citrus, I’ve been using the Miracle Grow for Azaleas and Rhododendrons 30:10:10 which might be too high N. There are probably better choices.
These are some of my container trees now. Some are in containers for fruit, for this summer. Some are my miniature propagation nursery, which I do more because I can, than because I need them.
Deck Trees. Most of these are cuttings, seedlings, or new grafts. The peaches are seedlings from genetic dwarfs - either Garden Gold or Honey Babe, they grew in the compost pile. I’m curious about whether they will bear as a container bush instead of tree.
This fig is Smith. Its in-ground twin was frozen to ground 2 years in a row.
Genetic Dwarf Peach. The first time in 13 years I had a genetic dwarf peach that was not covered with leaf curl. I winter-stored this one North of the house, sheltered from rain. I containerized it last fall, which required cutting a long, thick tap root about 2 inches thick. Surprised it survived. I probably didn’t thin enough.
Meyer lemon is stored in a sunny, unheated room for the winter. I might water it once or twice during the winter, but mostly it’s dry. The flowers are amazing, so sweet even at a distance. Honeybees go after them constantly. We get a bowl of lemons each year.
Nagami Kuquat. Three years old. So far, no fruits. It gets the same treatment as the Meyer Lemon.
More figs. They need the foil wrap. I went overboard with fig cuttings. My in-ground Champaign fig was completely killed by winter freeze, that didn’t phase Brunswick King, Lattarula, Chicago, or Petite Aubique.
