Summer pruning pears

This is a photo of my lanti jujuli in its second summer. It is on a large multi graft tree, grafted on about six feet high with four feet of growth. It really wants to just grow straight up. I have heard it mention here that it can be slow to fruit, I’m not sure any one has tasted yet. I notice on some of my other grafts , they grew long and were limber enough that there own weight made them “weep” into a below horizontal position. There are two or three scaffolds down low, I am considering cutting two feet off and let the lower scaffolds put some real horizontal growth. I don’t know , just wanting to keep it from shooting straight up.


Jason is lanti jujuli a fragrance pear? Very interesting variety!

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Yes it is, I would like to encourage it to fruit soon. I would really like to know how it tastes. Thanks @tonyOmahaz5 for the scion, I also put two back up grafts on this spring.

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Derby, I like your idea of cutting the top back and letting the scaffolds grow, keeping in mind that the top will likely immediately try to replace itself. On my frankenpear I have limited it to twelve feet; I always cut the top back to the weakest leader and constantly bend things to horizontal. I believe that if you do this every time you see the opportunity you’ll get more fruiting wood. Spurs should start to form this year or next.

I’ve also borrowed from the espalier discussion- here’s a link to one of the conversations:

and I’m finding that the right pinching back can encourage spurring. Those guys are getting results!


Good thoughts Mark, I agree those espilar threads sure have a lot of good information that can be applied to trees that are not espilard. I still have a lot to learn about pruning trees!

Pinching back definitely helps encourage fruit. Used it last year on my fig with extremely good results. Normally pears don’t need a lot of tip cuts but I use it when needed.

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